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Install stage 1- New HU, JL audio sub, JL audio amp to run the sub.
NO PROBLEMS
Install stage 2- Added JL Audio 450/4 and two JL Audio 6.5 fronts.
PROBLEMS BEGAN
This is why I figured it must be the new amp. But given the new test, it doesn't appear that the amps are causing the problem (just as the installer said).
I'm not good at dismantling the whole setup, so I'd rather just pull the fuse that is responsible for the audio system. Unless that is, you want to come over and help me out?
If his charger has short circuit protection, then it's possible that the charger is 'seeing' a fault and not allowing the output to turn on.
Once the battery is charged and installed back in the car, I would be curious to see what happens when he puts the battery charger back on the car. If the battery charger has an Ampere meter, we might be able to detect the current that is being 'drained' by the suspect device.
Mark
Good point.
There has to be a reason why the battery is not being charged and the possibility that it is related to the battery dying.
Also, Steve stated that the problems started to happen after the 2 amp install. Could it be related two the 2nd remote wire or was the second remote wire taken from the first amp?
Was the HU ever taken out when the second stage of install occurred?
Tonight, when I come home, I'll see if the battery will take a charge while still in the car. I'll go direct pos to pos, neg to neg so that I can eliminate not finding a good ground in the car.
Also, I need to know the location of where i can pull that 15 amp fuse. I looked in the footwell of the drivers side and didnt see any panel to open.
Tonight, when I come home, I'll see if the battery will take a charge while still in the car. I'll go direct pos to pos, neg to neg so that I can eliminate not finding a good ground in the car.
Also, I need to know the location of where i can pull that 15 amp fuse. I looked in the footwell of the drivers side and didnt see any panel to open.
I found it. Thx man. the schematic says rdo/hud so I looked in the manual and it confirms which one is for the radio. It was the left one of the three.
The battery is being charged in the car right now, but I pulled the connections to the car, so its just sitting in the engine bay being charged.
After being charged, I'll let it sit for 2 days with that fuse pulled and get back with you.
If it still is dead, then what?
Bring it to the dealer and tell them what I have done (in terms of pulling the fuses) so they don't accuse the install shop?
Is it possible the install shop screwed something else up during the install that would cause this?
I was kind of hoping the amp was the problem.. oh well,
I found it. Thx man. the schematic says rdo/hud so I looked in the manual and it confirms which one is for the radio. It was the left one of the three.
The battery is being charged in the car right now, but I pulled the connections to the car, so its just sitting in the engine bay being charged.
After being charged, I'll let it sit for 2 days with that fuse pulled and get back with you.
If it still is dead, then what?
Bring it to the dealer and tell them what I have done (in terms of pulling the fuses) so they don't accuse the install shop?
Is it possible the install shop screwed something else up during the install that would cause this?
I was kind of hoping the amp was the problem.. oh well,
Steve
PM sent.
Find out why the charger is not charing when on the car. It might lead you to the real issue.
Not to hijack but I'm learning alot here. Thanks to everyone's contributions. Is there a thread on suggestions or examples of a BIG 3 installation on a C4.
2 days with the radio fuse pulled from under the passenger footwell. Battery is doing ok so far. So.. assuming it is the head unit that is causing the problem, what is the issue? How do I fix it?
2 days with the radio fuse pulled from under the passenger footwell. Battery is doing ok so far. So.. assuming it is the head unit that is causing the problem, what is the issue? How do I fix it?
Steve
Before taking the radio cover apart for further testing.
What is your batter power reading that is displayed? 13 volts + or 12, 11...ect
Also, how was the second amp "Remote Wire" done? Is it taking from the first amp or is there two remote wires coming from the HU. You should be able to look at the amp and see where the wire goes.
1) Verify for sure that the drainage is occurring from the fuse. Check the Voltage on display, wait a few more days or go buy one of those testers at the hardware store.
2) Check the remote wire, how it was wired.
3) Take radio cover and HU out. Unplug the factory harness from the after-market adaptor. This will disconnect all power going to the HU & accessories installed.
I would then plug the fuse back but leave the factory harness disconnected. Wait a few more days and see if there is any drainage. If there is no drainage, then you could evaluate the HU, after-market adaptor and ect.
Taking off the radio cover and HU is quite easy. There are plenty of threads that show you how to do this.
Or you can skim through my insulation thread and see the part that explains how to take off the radio cover.
The audio shop said that the bose adapter was broken and was constantly drawing current. They are ordering me a new one and said that should solve the problem.
The audio shop said that the bose adapter was broken and was constantly drawing current. They are ordering me a new one and said that should solve the problem.
The audio shop said that the bose adapter was broken and was constantly drawing current. They are ordering me a new one and said that should solve the problem.
Lets hope so!
Thanks all,
Steve
Sounds about right... you isolated pretty much everything else so it's got to be it. Good job!