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you will probably get a few different suggestions here.
I did my car in dynamat but its costs an arm and a leg, then I did my truck in FatMat and it was very reasonable price wise and did an excellent job getting it quiet.
Second Skin Damplifier Pro = best sheet style dampening and priced better than dynamat pro. The sheets increase the mass of plastic panels and reduce vibration noise inside the car.
Acoustic foam (I used second skin "overkill pro") will filter out noise originating outside the car. Kale was using Luxery liner which should have better low frequency blocking than overkill.
A combination of both of these will keep your car riding quiet. In my case, this was essential since I have borla stingers.
Originally Posted by Kale
Lead sheets.
Seriously.
My info on sound deadening is out of date based on information learned after that, but Scott didn't update the post :/
I like second skins stuff. You have to use different sound deading for different problems and frequency. It is not cheap but you get good results. They have great customer service.
Considerably more difficult. You can sort of use the pattern in the factory foam to create new patterns. But this stuff is not all that flexible, and its thick.
Good suggestions thus far. I was very happy with the Raamat products that I installed in my truck. I tried to keep my vette deadening somewhat under control as I didn't want to add 300lbs of deadener to my part time track car
I do highly recommend the ensolite product from Raamat ... better than expected performance and easy to install. Just keep an eye on the thickness of deadener material that you are adding to ensure all of your interior bits still fit/snap back in.
I also installed Raamat BXT and Ensolite in my C6 and am really happy with it.
The Raam Audio website is very helpful on areas to double layer and things like that, also Rick can answer any questions.
The spray adhesive they sell is really good. I bought a couple of extra cans just to have around the garage.
All of the products are reasonably priced too.
I did my C5 with Dynamat Xtreme throughout and Dynapad over that. I am happy with it. The Dynamat people have Extremeliner now and I would look at that instead of Dynapad. All of this disregarding cost though! (and weight is considerable)
Extremeliner provides maximum low-frequency attenuation and heat resistance. Extremeliner is a four-part composite barrier consisting of 1/8 inch layer of neoprene, 15 mils of acoustic lead barrier, 1/4 inch layer of high efficiency acoustic foam and a 3 mil urethane top facing. Extremeliner works anywhere on your vehicle's floor and firewall for the ultimate barrier from road noise and engine noise. Great for high heat areas.
NOTE: Extremeliner provides maximum control when applied over Dynamat Xtreme.
I have used dynamat extreme on my 94 vert but I am using FatMat 80mil on my bmw 325ic I am redoing. That extreme liner is very $$$$ I have heard other talk about the duck insulation I guess you would use the metal tape to seal the over laps?
I'm just going to come out and say this: Frost king is nearly useless for sound. Differences "heard" are psychoacoustic. The idea is solid - foam with a constraining layer. But the foam is not thick enough, nor is the foil layer massive enough. Simple laws of physics - 1/8" of open cell foam does virtually nothing to impede sound transmission.
****, 1/2" of open cell foam only scratches the surface.
However, Frost king works well as a thermal insulator.
If you want to use this principal - mass backed foam - your best bet is luxury liner. Or come up with your own foam/lead concoction for best results.
Viscoelastic layer at the bottom, to control panel vibration. Also doubling mass = 5db of reduction. On top of viscoelastic layer (Raamat BXT, Secondskin Damplifier, Dynamat) then you want to put your noise barrier (mass backed foam.)
Even then, consider this:
Your car is like a boat, and sound is like water. A little hole will let a lot of water in.