pentavolvo

Ok this is a 2 part writeup, I will discuss how to keep the factory bose subs when replacing the headunit without buying a special interface and how to add amps to the factory headunit with out an interface. With this said some radios with really high or low preout levels will have issues powering bose door subs without an interface. Also some of parts 1 and 2 will cover same material.

Part 1: Retain bose subs with aftermarket radio
1st off you need to make sure you have your remote / amp turn on wire from your radio connected to the power antenna wire in your gm harness (blue). On the radio this will be either blue or blue w/white so check your manual. I repeat you need the amp turn on wire not power antenna, as this wire triggers both the antenna and bose door subs amp

On the factory gm harness side of things this wire is dark green pin 3 as seen from this pic



Ok now that your amp is turning on we can get the bose subs wired up. There are a few diff ways to go about this if you do not want to splice any wires, pick up this harness http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+ADD-VET1.html which is hard to find.

We are going to solder RCA plugs into the seperate bose harness behind the radio. Of the 2 smaller harness this is the larger one. I recommend either getting some T-tap connectors or stripping the wire back and soldering or splicing in.


Here are the wires we will splice for our rca connectors. I will discuss rca connectors at the end. The commons or outer ring on the rca connectors will be shared and they both connect to the light blue wire.

Your right positive rca wire will connect to the light green/black wire

Your left positive rca wire will connect to the tan/black wire.

Plug the left rca into the left front preout on your radio and right rca into the right front preout. If your radio has a sub output I might use that instead as you could adjust the sub level that way.

Now if for some reason you find you get alternator wine after eliminating all other possible sources try moving the common on your rcas from light blue to a chassis ground on the radio or try it with both of them I have heard of cases where this was needed.


Part 2: Add an amp to bose radio
First off to get your remote turn on wire you will be tapping the dark green wire from the main harness in pin 3 for your amp turn on wire. You can use a t-tap or strip the wire back and splice or solder in.


Now we need to splice rca connectors in for our aftermarket amp. You can either get this pac addvet1 harness which is hard to find or just splice your wires in.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+ADD-VET1.html

The harness we will be splicing in is the larger of the smaller 2 harness

Front Right: Light Green/Black
Front Left: Tan/Black
Rear Right: Dark Blue
Rear Left: Brown
Common: Light Blue

When you splice your rcas in the common or outer ring will all get spliced to the light blue wire. Splice the positive or tip wire to the corresponding wires from above. Now you are all set for an aftermarket amp.

Now if for some reason you find you get alternator wine after eliminating all other possible sources try moving the common on your rcas from light blue to a chassis ground on the radio or try it with both of them I have heard of cases where this was needed.



Part 3: RCA Connectors
Im sure some of the more novice people are wondering what the hell do I do about these rca connectors he keeps talking about. There are a few ways to go about this either purchase rca ends from radioshack and solder on 18ga wire and splice that in.

if keeping bose subs
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...Id=2103423&cp=

if adding aftermarket amp to bose radio
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...Id=2103426&cp=

Otherwise pick up http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
and cut it so you have an rca end and a few inches of cable on each end and splice those in. If using this method for adding an aftermarket amp get some rca couplers and you are set
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

Note: keep these wires short when splicing in for the rcas no more then 6" IMO as the longer they are the easier it will be to pick up noise


Disclaimer
I am not responsible for any damage you may cause, and honestly if any of this is the least bit confusing to you, you need to get a Soundgate GMCRV2 or PAC ADDVET1 harness and not try the DIY

BIRDMANmx5

what is the output on this bose radio? some are odd like 1/2 ohm...
thanks

Chevy-SS

Nice writeup man! I was completely baffled until I read this. I have been wanting to get a radio for my C5 with MP3 built in, but was totally turned off and confused by the Bose "proprietary" wiring.

Will this work with virtually any H/U?

Thanks

Over-torque

nice writeup. thanks, i followed this and it works! a couple of notes though, the RCA inputs get spliced into the middle sized plug. (the larger of the two whites on the L side of the factory radio) at first i couldn't find the right wires as i was looking at the green/white large plug on the right.

also, as i got the popping/whine sound from the electrical interference of the RCAs, i will be trying the line converters that the OP suggested.

bottom line, if you have basic wiring skills and want to save $80, try it. if you have no patience and know plug-n-play was designed for you, go with the soundgate.

NVTHIS

Great writeup, Greg! This should help answer a lot of questions, hopefully.

pentavolvo

yeah im finding that you pretty much need to use a line out converter or the sven2 or u will get popping, its very rare to not need it

this 100% works no issues for adding an amp to factory radio though

jfruzna

Hi thank you for the nice write up. It worked perfect much better than the LOC. The only problem now is im getting alternator whine. Same setup as when i had the LOC but now getting the whine. What can i do????... factory Head Unit