Has anyone tested the Ohms on the 2008 door speakers? If so, can you share the info with me. Thanks!!!

 

same as every other c6 out there nothing has changed

 

Can you post numbers?

 

Pretty sure the 3.5" drivers are 4 ohm drivers.

I saw your other thread talking about using an aftermarket amp to power them... gotta tell ya man, it ain't the just amp that holds that system back, it's the combination of the amp and the speakers - they're both crap. The crossover is also internal to the amp so make sure you high pass the amp if you are taking line level signal. You feed those cheesy paper cones any real power (and 40w is real power to these POS) and you'll throw the voice coils across the car.

 

Komoman, thanks for the input. I've been struggling on how to proceed with an upgrade. The thing is I really do not want to scrap the 10"s in the doors for 6.5 inch woofers. It does not make sense to me. The impact that 10 inch woofers have to the overall dynamics has got me stuck. I was hoping someone had done this already and could share their input.

My thought is to leave the stock 10"s with the stock amp and take the line level signal to a small amp and power the 3.5" in the doors and possibly add a sub using resistors to filter the subs in the doors.

 

10" are 1/2 ohm.

 

Vince thanks for the information!

 

But the 10's of the Bose system are also self-amplified!!! The 8's of the Delco system are driven from the Delco amp.

There's a reason that folks haven't done this.... because the 10's just aren't that good and you're better off scrapping them. I understand your desire to keep things simple, and honest, I'm not saying these things as a troll or as an audio snob (which I am, admittedly) who thinks your plans are crap unless you do exactly what I would do.

The design of the C6 systems just doesn't lend itself well to incremental upgrades. The only pieces in the system that are worth a snot are the factory head units, but the real problem is the speaker choices that were made. Take the rear speakers out of the equation, because they flat don't do much and the thing to concentrate on here is the front soundstage. Then just look at the physics of this - how exactly are you supposed to blend the frequencies from a 3.5" and a 10" driver?? There's simply no way a 3.5" speaker can play down into the highest frequencies a 10" speaker can produce, and vice-versa. So that means you have a whole range of frequencies flat-out missing. Then factor in the reality that the system has no tweeters... another gap. OK, so throwing a pair of 3.5" coaxials can net you a tweeter and give the system some highs, but it will never fix that midbass gap between the 3.5 and the 10. To my ear, every time I've heard a system with a coaxial swap it makes that gap MORE noticeable once you've added in the highs.

So now TheKomoman needs to take a deep breath, step down off his soapbox and sum it all up....

What I wrote here still stands:

http://www.lazyassgeek.com/c6-stereo...aker-swapping/

The kind of approach you're taking will just waste money and frustrate you. Either do a little, or do it all, that's just flat what the stock systems dictate.

 

What does the 10 play to? I think it could hit ~1500hz, which a 3.5 could do easily... Unless it ends at ~200hz, then the 3.5 is in trouble.

 

why don't you look into a 8" component system? with proper dampening and stiffening of the door you should achieve your goals

 

That's what I thought too, which is why I am considering my options.

 

[QUOTE=TheKomoman;1566699403]
There's a reason that folks haven't done this.... because the 10's just aren't that good and you're better off scrapping them. I understand your desire to keep things simple, and honest, I'm not saying these things as a troll or as an audio snob (which I am, admittedly) who thinks your plans are crap unless you do exactly what I would do.

The design of the C6 systems just doesn't lend itself well to incremental upgrades. The only pieces in the system that are worth a snot are the factory head units, but the real problem is the speaker choices that were made. Take the rear speakers out of the equation, because they flat don't do much and the thing to concentrate on here is the front soundstage. Then just look at the physics of this - how exactly are you supposed to blend the frequencies from a 3.5" and a 10" driver?? There's simply no way a 3.5" speaker can play down into the highest frequencies a 10" speaker can produce, and vice-versa. So that means you have a whole range of frequencies flat-out missing. Then factor in the reality that the system has no tweeters... another gap. OK, so throwing a pair of 3.5" coaxials can net you a tweeter and give the system some highs, but it will never fix that midbass gap between the 3.5 and the 10. To my ear, every time I've heard a system with a coaxial swap it makes that gap MORE noticeable once you've added in the highs.

So now TheKomoman needs to take a deep breath, step down off his soapbox and sum it all up....

Komoman,

I loved the reply

But I believe that the 10's will play the high frequencies to the point it can be integrated with a tweeter eliminating the need for the 3.5 inch speaker all together. Sound Like I am have to pioneer : )

 

in my experience a quality 6.5 component said matched with well deadned doors can pump out same bass as the stock subs

 

i think you'd need a large format tweeter and carefully select your 10" go check out diy mobile audio forums and also zaphaudio's tweeter mismash. you know that you'll be going fully active if you take this route right?

 

I have 7's in my doors that will play damn flat to below 60hz and handle 45hz before they really start talking to me, and that is without excessive deadening. I run them at 63hz 24db rolloff right now and they work great.

Crap motors with cheap surrounds and cones that are 10" do not outperform quality 6.5's or especially 8's. And the 10's from blose I am sure will play to around 500hz at least decently, and are probably doing so in the stock system. And whatever bass they are making I can say from experience is not impressive compared to a quality driver in a deadened door with at least 50 watts behind it.

No highs, no lows, it must be blose.

There are many ways of improving the factory system, but using the factory drivers and amps is not one of them IMO.

I don't believe that you will find a 10 outside of possibly the pro audio world that will mate decently with a tweeter, unless as Scott mentioned you go large high end models with an fs around 500hz, and even then that tweet won't like playing 1000hz, and your 10" will probably mud up your midrange pretty good at 1000hz too.

8's and a large format have a much better chance of fitting your needs, and with a proper install you can run an 8" from 50hz 12db through to around 1.2khz and blend in a tweet pretty nicely and duck a sub if that is your plan.




G'luck
Fej

 

Back it down a notch guys.... you're giving great advice if he wanted to take that route, but go back and re-read his initial posts. He's looking to do something rather minimalistic and you're throwing rather complex stuff at him, even for folks who are familiar with car stereo.

His intent in the 10's in the door was to keep the stock subs and use them with an aftermarket 3.5" setup. My advice and comments were tailored to that.....

 

Now he wants to tweeter + 10... not going to happen, mho.

 

I think it was mentioned earlier... but I believe that a 10" pro audio driver would be able to do it.

Eminence makes a pro audio bass driver with a whizzer cone that can play 40-4000 hz. I probably wouldn't use it in a car, though... I have no idea if it would play vocals with any quality at all. Who knows what peaks it would have across that spectrum?

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=290-495

But I agree with you, dude. A good set of 6.5" components will sound better than the stock 10's and an upgraded set of 3.5's.

It's not about the size of the speaker, it's how you wiggle the worm... or something.

Asking two speakers to handle 20-20,000Hz is hard to do. An 8" driver and a large format tweeter can do it, but you will sacrifice some low end to do it. With cabin gain in our cars, it might not be a big issue... if you dial the system in correctly.

Asking a 10" driver to play upwards of 1,500 to 2,000 hz means that it has been designed with that application in mind. It's probably a light weight cone... made of paper or poly. It would need to be designed such that is can withstand the forces of the lower frequencies, yet still produce the midrange with clarity. (Good luck.)

So is it possible? Sure. Is it recommended? Not really. But if you have time and money, and like to experiment, go for it. You'll have fun, learn a lot, get frustrated... all good things for us audio nuts.

Mark

 

this would do nicely:
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=1142

 

keep in mind that uses the old drivers (newer tweeter is much better)

I use Dyn 8" + Dyn MD102 tweeter, it's a great combination (Ran active)