Help me select an amp please,,,,,,,



I can see that dual voice coil subs make sense to me (I would think that the sub receives right and left signals?) and would think they require 2 channels. I'll wire a 6 channel amp if that's what I should do and 'am looking at 2 models on eBay. A JL A6450 at 1320w and an Infinity 5760A, both 6 channel amps. And although the selection of subs is overwhelming, it looks like I have to stay relatively low on sub wattage and 'am thinking 400-500 watt given the rather low 5th and 6th channel outputs. Does the dual voice coil rating on a sub of 250 RMS make it an RMS of 500? Any help you can give to this Corvette owning Senior Citizen would be greatly appreciated. Kale? Where are ya!! I give Kale credit for having me remove the Focal 6 1/2" components out of the doors in favor of the Focal V2 6x9" two ways for much more mid base and a good punch

One last question for youse. Will these 6 channel amps fly with my stock '02 alternator? I hope so. and do I need a farad capacitor?
Last edited by Ol'55; Sep 3, 2008 at 10:45 AM.
250 rms rating is 250 rms rating, regardless of coil count.
Also, you can "overpower" a sub safely by some amount. Listen for distortion. Don't use bass boost. I always like having a little bit of extra power.
I think your alternator should be more than fine for your application. If you are worried about alt power, look at the PDX 5. Good enough power for your speakers plus a pretty serious sub channel, and its easy on the electrical system.
Keep in mind, some people find the PDX amps to sound "congested" which is hard to explain.. but I dont think would be noticeable when running more than 2 full range speakers.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Elemental Designs…..when they are not stealing other people’s designs they are posting absolutely incorrect specifications for their products and not responding to customer inquiries. Buy at your own risk.
No problems whatsoever with running independent signals to a DVC sub? I certainly see potential issues related to phase and the difference in source input at different frequencies. While I agree that it may be the only solution in a home audio context, there are certainly far more options in a car audio context.
At least run a summed mono signal to the sub if that is the route you are going to take.
Research the first pre-order which resulted in customers being charged for product and then eD holding the money despite significant delays in production (as a result, they now no longer charge the full amount until the product actually ships).
Research Ben walking away from the contract for the flatcone with TC Sounds leaving them with a substantial contract balance due.
Research how the original T/S specs for their stamped basket subs proved to be false.
Research how Ben requested that Tang Band design their slim mount SQ10 and then took the prototype, without permission mind you, to another (cheaper) manufacturer for actual production.
Research the eDead v1 adhesion failures.
Research the most recent series of failures involving the eDead v1SE2 involving the Mylar backing delaminating from the substrate.
Research the “close out” eNetic cable and how significantly less stands were included but yet that was never posted on the eD site.
Research how eD had to redesign their flagship 13av.2 after JL Audio noticed the incredibly similar basket design and threatened litigation.
…..that is just off the top of my head. Their business ethics are all but non-existent.
Research the first pre-order which resulted in customers being charged for product and then eD holding the money despite significant delays in production (as a result, they now no longer charge the full amount until the product actually ships).
Research Ben walking away from the contract for the flatcone with TC Sounds leaving them with a substantial contract balance due.
Research how the original T/S specs for their stamped basket subs proved to be false.
Research how Ben requested that Tang Band design their slim mount SQ10 and then took the prototype, without permission mind you, to another (cheaper) manufacturer for actual production.
Research the eDead v1 adhesion failures.
Research the most recent series of failures involving the eDead v1SE2 involving the Mylar backing delaminating from the substrate.
Research the “close out” eNetic cable and how significantly less stands were included but yet that was never posted on the eD site.
Research how eD had to redesign their flagship 13av.2 after JL Audio noticed the incredibly similar basket design and threatened litigation.
…..that is just off the top of my head. Their business ethics are all but non-existent.



Why do we see the 4 power connections on the DVC subs (is that for a bridged channel 5 and 6? And if I did do a DVC sub can it be wired from a single 5th channel amp or should you buy a mono sub for a 5 channel amp and only do a DVC when bridging a ch5 and ch6 from a 6 channel amp. Also looking at both 6 channel amps and 5 channel amps of similar brands and power models (price seems close too) what should I buy, a 5 channel or a 6 channel given I'm only planning a single sub rather than two subs? (I'm guessing the channels 5 and 6 would suit themselves to a multiple sub system.) TIA
A subwoofer is wired "to itself" then just a single + and - lead to the amp. JL's website has some great information on that.
It's been way too long since I posted on this site but this is worth writing about.
First of all, the stock alternator on a C5 will handle a 1300 watt amp with no problems. However, the stock wiring should be replaced (do a search on "the big three". A two (or more) Farad capacitor would be a added benefit.
Yes, an amp needs to be matched to the speaker or visa-versa. You don't want to use a 500 watt amp with a 50 watt speaker or a 500 watt subwoofer with a 50 watt amp.
You also want to match the amp channels to speaker or visa-versa. Personally, I would never use stereo channels to dual voice coil subwoofer. Heck, why do you guys think there is so many mono subwoofer amps out there? In car audio, most amps are bridgeable. I'll use my old PPI amp's output for example. It will put out 150 watts per channel or 600 watts mono, both into a 4 ohm load. I'm sure both 6-channel amps you are looking at have bridgable outputs. Let us know what you choose.
Jay
P.S.
It's been way too long since I posted on this site but this is worth writing about.
First of all, the stock alternator on a C5 will handle a 1300 watt amp with no problems. However, the stock wiring should be replaced (do a search on "the big three". A two (or more) Farad capacitor would be a added benefit.
Yes, an amp needs to be matched to the speaker or visa-versa. You don't want to use a 500 watt amp with a 50 watt speaker or a 500 watt subwoofer with a 50 watt amp.
You also want to match the amp channels to speaker or visa-versa. Personally, I would never use stereo channels to dual voice coil subwoofer. Heck, why do you guys think there is so many mono subwoofer amps out there? In car audio, most amps are bridgeable. I'll use my old PPI amp's output for example. It will put out 150 watts per channel or 600 watts mono, both into a 4 ohm load. I'm sure both 6-channel amps you are looking at have bridgable outputs. Let us know what you choose.
Jay
P.S. A "true 400-500 watt amp with a sub is not low, esp in the confines of a C5. Rock on!

long time no post how have u been man
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1795940
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1830571















