Not Loud Enough


Thanks
Loud (volume) takes power and efficiency .. get yourself a set of components and an amp .. one of the premade mounting options available here on the forums, and enjoy. A 6.5" component set would be my recommendation with some decent power behind it .. at least 75w per side.
The initial outlay of money will be worth the investment and performance return for almost all people .. and especially in a convertible where the somewhat pathetic factory blose system becomes overpowered due to lack of power and inefficient drivers.
G'luck and check out the "what do you run" sticky for a ton of ideas .. from basic to seriously custom.
Fej


Thanks for the help!
Most the volume and power comes from the midrange anyway... Run just tweeters, you'll see what I mean.
Also, adding amped rear speakers will do wonders for volume (but not for sound quality...)
You can have your gain all the way down, but if you crank that treble up, your amp will start pushing a lot of power, clip, and, as you saw, eat your tweeters.
Last edited by Kale; Dec 11, 2008 at 11:09 AM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I ran the same exact scenario (720prs, 4.150) in my truck to ear bleed volumes without any problems whatsoever. In fact the last meet I was actually able to attend, I got a ton of compliments and a lot of shock as to what was installed and the quality (clear/clean/loud/ good stage) of the playback.
How old are you? As we age some of the first things to go is our high frequency hearing, and where we stop hearing at (starts at around 16/18khz and works down as we age).
You can certainly buy a more efficient tweeter (read can play louder under the same power) and go from there. Check out the Seas Neo ($60 for a pair on Madisound, the part number escapes me).
G'luck
Fej


However you MIGHT be able to run FOUR total Seas tweeters, by running a pair in series off each crossover channel.
There are some 4 ohm options available that would work with the crossovers provided in the set. You can check out Madisound for auto sound or search by 4 ohm tweeters in their store. This might not be a bad option http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pro...roducts_id=633
Glad to hear you are getting your hearing checked ... wind and road noise are huge obstacles to overcome in car audio installations, and the convertible just makes it 5x worse. What HU are you using right now? If it is an Alpine for example ... about 75-80% of max volume (say 27 out of 35) would be the max signal that the HU could send unclipped to the amp. Using this number reset your gains accordingly and keep that HU number away from max.
G'luck
Fej
You sure that the 720prs tweets are 8 ohm? I never tested my set, but I did not think that they were.
Obviously if they are, then the crossover was designed for an 8ohm impedance, which would be bad for a 4 ohm replacement as you mentioned. I just don't think they are.
If so, lots of 8 ohm options to replace them with at madisound.
Fej




So, if I connect 4 should mount the left/right pair close to each other or can I put one in each door and one in the door handle or a-pillar?
Thanks

If you go active, try a set of USD Waveguides crossed over at 1000 Hz and up. The only problem then will be the lack of mids and lows.... unless you run 12" mid/midbass drivers and either 15" or 18" bass drivers.
The horns are so damned efficient... it's hard to match them up to a decent set of drivers. 
FWIW: I have the same speakers as you do, and I haven't had ANY problems with the mids or tweeters. Then again, I am running an Xtant 603 at 75 watts per channel. I can crank my system up to full volume with zero distortion and have yet to run into any problems. (I agree with Fej... it's crazy loud and clear as hell!)
If you are smoking the tweeters, then I would guess that you are clipping the amp and destroying the tweeters... or pushing so much power that the tweeters simply cannot keep up. You realize that they are only rated for 50 watts, right?

As for mounting locations for the tweeters... understand that two different mounting points will cause problems with time alignment/path length. Sometimes you can get away with mounting a set aimed directly, then have an additional set aimed for 'ambiance' at a higher point in the car... but with some type of adjustment like an L-Pad to be able to adjust the output.
Sounds to me like you need two sets of speakers... one for 'quality' when you are cruising, another set for when you are top-down with the wind in your face. (Think: Focal vs. Marshall Stack!)
Mark












