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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 11:02 PM
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Just wanted to post a thank you to those who helped me with my new C6Z.

I retained the factory NAV unit, disconnected the center speaker, replaced the fronts with Focal 165KPS UV, the rears with Focal 130 KRC and a Zapco C2K4.0X, no sub.

Lockpick IPOD interface.

Yes I did run Cardus 10ga which was a PIA but IMO gives me better range.

Tunnel plate, Cowbody rear kit, matted the spline, doors and rear compartment.

I was told in adance that it would be a 50% improvement over stock retaining the NAV unit as the HU. Dan, you were 100% dead on.

A tad too bright for my taste due to the Focals are known for that. The Cardus I suspect did tone them down, I have to see when it's all burned in. The stock tweet location doesn't help but I didn't want to hack the car up as it can be brought back to OEM.

Nice bass and mids but as I said a little too bright. I'm not running a sub and see no need for one with what I've got.

Just played with the gains on the amp for about 5 minutes as time ran out. I suspect when I get more time to dial it in it'll get tighter.

Only drawback is an alternator whine when the whole system is turned off.

All in all a great upgrade.

Thanks Guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 11:49 PM
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Drop 3k, 5k, 12k.
should tame the focals.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 11:58 PM
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is the amp not turning off then?
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 08:03 AM
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The Focal crossovers do have some tweet level adjustment, I assume you have them down to the -6 (could be -3, depends on the xover)? Kale's frequency recommendations are good, except you don't have adjustability for that at the moment so if you do have the xover set at the lowest tweet output level you may end up needing to pad it down a bit more or wire in an equalizer, but one step at a time.

I'll echo Greg's question about the whine. As I recall you're using a fuse in the footwell to trigger, you hear it when the car is running, head is off? Did you put the ground look isolators in?

Congrats & enjoy!
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by pentavolvo
is the amp not turning off then?
Amp is triggered to the wiper circuit, it's off along with the whole system. Was thinking about putting a resistor or capacator in the the alternator.

Originally Posted by TheKomoman
The Focal crossovers do have some tweet level adjustment, I assume you have them down to the -6 (could be -3, depends on the xover)? Kale's frequency recommendations are good, except you don't have adjustability for that at the moment so if you do have the xover set at the lowest tweet output level you may end up needing to pad it down a bit more or wire in an equalizer, but one step at a time.

I'll echo Greg's question about the whine. As I recall you're using a fuse in the footwell to trigger, you hear it when the car is running, head is off? Did you put the ground look isolators in?

Congrats & enjoy!
No noise when the car is off. Only time I hear it is when the car is running with the HU and the amp shut off. It's only in the fronts, not the rear.

I can adjust the tweets, I have yet to play with the amp which does give me more flexability to adjust the tweets.

The new UV version of the crossovers will let me adjust -2, -4 and -6.

Isolators didn't do anything so I pulled them out. I spoke with Zapco, the amp comes with transducers which I have close to each other. I might me creating a ground loop do to this.

Last edited by 1%r; Mar 17, 2009 at 02:10 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jersey jay
Amp is triggered to the wiper circuit, it's off along with the whole system. Was thinking about putting a resistor or capacator in the the alternator.



No noise when the car is off. Only time I hear it is when the car is running with the HU and the amp shut off. It's only in the fronts, not the rear.

I can adjust the tweets, I have yet to play with the amp which does give me more flexability to adjust the tweets.

The new UV version of the crossovers will let me adjust -2, -4 and -6.
I'm going to guess that you will probably drop the tweet all the way down, it's a tough mounting spot.

Alt whine off the stock heads is very common, even with my Zapco and the balanced line converters I had it and had to use ground loop isolators.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 02:52 PM
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there is a wire on the oem connector and at the oem amp that acts as a turn on wire and should shut off a few min after the radio

tricky thing is it will turn on when u unlock car etc anytime the oem amp would turn on to sound the chimes etc
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by pentavolvo
there is a wire on the oem connector and at the oem amp that acts as a turn on wire and should shut off a few min after the radio

tricky thing is it will turn on when u unlock car etc anytime the oem amp would turn on to sound the chimes etc
Greg, next time you do that would you mind documenting it, maybe a pic of the wire in the harness, etc and post a thread so I can sticky it in the FAQ? That would be very cool to include, thanks!
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 04:30 PM
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The trigger wire coming out of the stock radio for the OEM amps is the white wire at pin B3 of the main connector.

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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by TheKomoman
I'm going to guess that you will probably drop the tweet all the way down, it's a tough mounting spot.

Alt whine off the stock heads is very common, even with my Zapco and the balanced line converters I had it and had to use ground loop isolators.
I might have created a ground loop with the Zapco transducers. I need to diconnect one side to see if that is indeed the case. What ground loop isolators are you using?

Originally Posted by pentavolvo
there is a wire on the oem connector and at the oem amp that acts as a turn on wire and should shut off a few min after the radio

tricky thing is it will turn on when u unlock car etc anytime the oem amp would turn on to sound the chimes etc
All the OEM wires are still in place but not routed to the new speakers. I no longer have chimes as I disconnected the leads to all the speakers from the Bose amp inc the center channel.

Are you saying that I just should take the Bose amp off line out of the system?

I still think it's off the alt being I have no noise with just the assc switch on. The only time I hear it is when the engine is running and the system shut down.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by jersey jay
I might have created a ground loop with the Zapco transducers. I need to diconnect one side to see if that is indeed the case. What ground loop isolators are you using?



All the OEM wires are still in place but not routed to the new speakers. I no longer have chimes as I disconnected the leads to all the speakers from the Bose amp inc the center channel.

Are you saying that I just should take the Bose amp off line out of the system?

I still think it's off the alt being I have no noise with just the assc switch on. The only time I hear it is when the engine is running and the system shut down.
You should have chimes regardless - they're not generated by the Bose amp in the Vette, they're generated by the head unit. I didn't have any of the stock speakers connected and I had chimes when I used the factory NAV. What Greg is talking about is using a wire from the factory harness as an amp trigger instead of the fuse panel I directed you to.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TheKomoman
You should have chimes regardless - they're not generated by the Bose amp in the Vette, they're generated by the head unit. I didn't have any of the stock speakers connected and I had chimes when I used the factory NAV. What Greg is talking about is using a wire from the factory harness as an amp trigger instead of the fuse panel I directed you to.
I was wrong, I do have chimes. Does anyone have a pin out diagram of the stock harness?
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jersey jay
I was wrong, I do have chimes. Does anyone have a pin out diagram of the stock harness?
There's a link to diagrams in the audio faq stickied at the top of this section. I don't have them handy but I know they're in there near the bottom of the first post.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 03:13 PM
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in 1.5 weeks ill try and get pics im getting in a c6 to swap amps for customer and move the remote wire
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by pentavolvo
in 1.5 weeks ill try and get pics im getting in a c6 to swap amps for customer and move the remote wire
This pic I did to show the low level output shows that wire I think. If I interpret what markcz said correctly it would be the white wire on the bottom right that is between the orange and yellow/white wires in that pic. Looks to be snaking it's way to the lower set of pins in third position - hence B3.

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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by TheKomoman
This pic I did to show the low level output shows that wire I think. If I interpret what markcz said correctly it would be the white wire on the bottom right that is between the orange and yellow/white wires in that pic. Looks to be snaking it's way to the lower set of pins in third position - hence B3.
That's the one

One of these days when i get a minute I'll scan the plug pinouts and add them to the schematics thread.

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Old Mar 23, 2009 | 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by jersey jay
Amp is triggered to the wiper circuit, it's off along with the whole system. Was thinking about putting a resistor or capacator in the the alternator.
No noise when the car is off. Only time I hear it is when the car is running with the HU and the amp shut off. It's only in the fronts, not the rear.
The Zapco is staying on when you turn the radio off, with the car still running, as the wiper circuit still needs power when the car is on. The noise is created because there is no signal going in, and the whine is the noise going out, with the amp is still fully powered up. Tagging the OEM amp turn on wire, instead of the wiper circuit, would correct that problem.
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