Fiberglass help
Lance
I do my glass work in the yard. If I cant, I do it in the garage, and move it to the yard if it is possible so cut down on odor.
I have plenty of resin drips all over the garage floor. it is like trying to build something using paper towels, and syrup for the glue.
there are 2 types of fiberglass materials.
Mat= which is a mess of fibers kind of pressed into a cloth. good for building up an area.
Cloth= nice weaved cloth, sharp scissors to cut, and hard to do difficult shapes in one piece. Usually have to sand out flaw with this. like doing a corner of a box, and overlapping the inside and outside. it will bow up at the top. there are ways to get it right, but this is usually what happens first time out.
Resin. you can buy it at home depot. you get hardner with it. I use lots of hardener, so you may want to pick up an extra tube... the more you use, the faster it dries. use too little, it dries in 3 months-maybe. Also depends on outside temp. if mixed good IMHO, it will dry in 30 mins. I usually get 5-10 mins on my mixes before it turned into goop then hard.
I would suggest you go out and buy the stuff to try it out in the yard. make something similar to what you want to do. Do it small scale, whatever. this way you will have an idea of how it is to work with this stuff.
You need old clothes you wont mind throwing away (head to toe). rubber gloves. might want a mask(yes if sanding). pants and long sleve shirt. dont get it on your skin. it takes forever to get it off. and once activated, it burns.
as for getting glass to do what you want. you can soak the cloth in the resin and lay it up on what you want to shape. or you can lay the cloth, hold it with tape (use excess cloth), stables... whatever... and brush in some resin. usually the brush strokes will tear apart the cloth once saturated and make a mess. use a dabbing motion with the brush to avoid this. the cloth streches as you work in the resin. if you use a method to lock the clotch down (stables) you will end up with slop when you are done with the resin. you have to plan this into your work.
as for making a box in the car. remove everything in the car. Tarp off everything in/out of the car. I mean everything.
then you can cover the compartment with a release agent of some type. wax paper. I think foil works. seen some pages with duct tape used.
you can then lay in the cloth/resin with the methods I described above. and go slow to slowly build up a platform to work with. once dry and stable enough, pull it out and complete it somewhere else.
it will take plenty of glass to build up strength.
Other methods are make a cardboard mock up of the box and fiberglass right over it.
I have done thin wood, and fiberglass over it.
Then you have the sub speaker itself to deal with. a wood ring and some dowels to get you an angled sub. I think the material used to strech over the top is some blanket material fleece to get a nice arch over an angled sub? I have used old t- shirts. I staple them into the box and ring, and resin that. then I go over all of the T shirt with more glass completely covering it, because the t-shirt becomes very brittle.
Thats about all I can think of for soing this. the rest is on you for the design, construction, and how it all works out.
One last thing, some guys work really clean. They can lay up a perfect box.
I get frustrated working in such a mess, I just clump it up (non cooperate) and let it turn into what ever it is going to be. I work backwards and shape it back to what I want with a power sander, and do a few more passes on it with glass to rebuild what I removed with the sander. I like to think of it as sculpting.
It will frustrate you, no doubt.





I do my glass work in the yard. If I cant, I do it in the garage, and move it to the yard if it is possible so cut down on odor.
I have plenty of resin drips all over the garage floor. it is like trying to build something using paper towels, and syrup for the glue.
there are 2 types of fiberglass materials.
Mat= which is a mess of fibers kind of pressed into a cloth. good for building up an area.
Cloth= nice weaved cloth, sharp scissors to cut, and hard to do difficult shapes in one piece. Usually have to sand out flaw with this. like doing a corner of a box, and overlapping the inside and outside. it will bow up at the top. there are ways to get it right, but this is usually what happens first time out.
Resin. you can buy it at home depot. you get hardner with it. I use lots of hardener, so you may want to pick up an extra tube... the more you use, the faster it dries. use too little, it dries in 3 months-maybe. Also depends on outside temp. if mixed good IMHO, it will dry in 30 mins. I usually get 5-10 mins on my mixes before it turned into goop then hard.
I would suggest you go out and buy the stuff to try it out in the yard. make something similar to what you want to do. Do it small scale, whatever. this way you will have an idea of how it is to work with this stuff.
You need old clothes you wont mind throwing away (head to toe). rubber gloves. might want a mask(yes if sanding). pants and long sleve shirt. dont get it on your skin. it takes forever to get it off. and once activated, it burns.
as for getting glass to do what you want. you can soak the cloth in the resin and lay it up on what you want to shape. or you can lay the cloth, hold it with tape (use excess cloth), stables... whatever... and brush in some resin. usually the brush strokes will tear apart the cloth once saturated and make a mess. use a dabbing motion with the brush to avoid this. the cloth streches as you work in the resin. if you use a method to lock the clotch down (stables) you will end up with slop when you are done with the resin. you have to plan this into your work.
as for making a box in the car. remove everything in the car. Tarp off everything in/out of the car. I mean everything.
then you can cover the compartment with a release agent of some type. wax paper. I think foil works. seen some pages with duct tape used.
you can then lay in the cloth/resin with the methods I described above. and go slow to slowly build up a platform to work with. once dry and stable enough, pull it out and complete it somewhere else.
it will take plenty of glass to build up strength.
Other methods are make a cardboard mock up of the box and fiberglass right over it.
I have done thin wood, and fiberglass over it.
Then you have the sub speaker itself to deal with. a wood ring and some dowels to get you an angled sub. I think the material used to strech over the top is some blanket material fleece to get a nice arch over an angled sub? I have used old t- shirts. I staple them into the box and ring, and resin that. then I go over all of the T shirt with more glass completely covering it, because the t-shirt becomes very brittle.
Thats about all I can think of for soing this. the rest is on you for the design, construction, and how it all works out.
One last thing, some guys work really clean. They can lay up a perfect box.
I get frustrated working in such a mess, I just clump it up (non cooperate) and let it turn into what ever it is going to be. I work backwards and shape it back to what I want with a power sander, and do a few more passes on it with glass to rebuild what I removed with the sander. I like to think of it as sculpting.
It will frustrate you, no doubt.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Go to www.caraudiohelp.com. They sell a couple of videos on fabrication that are VERY GOOD. You'll be able to build any kind of an enclosure. Good instructions, material lists, and nice demos. Worth the money.
Mike Coletta
To add to the excellent and hilarious write up provided by the first responder: some people are very sensitive to the smell of the monomer (styrene) so until you know what your reaction is do it out side and/or with excellent ventilation. A cheap organic gas mask may even be advisable. Ditto any fiberglass dust with sanding or handling. Cheap paper painters masks will do fine for that. Some are even sensitive to the dust on their skin so long sleeves and gloves are a must.
I used latex gloves for everything and mixed the resin in medium sized Dixie cups and like the author put in extra hardener to get a 10 to 15 minute hardening time. That way you can get a number of layers done quickly. Once it starts to harden just dump it in the trash. You will make a bigger mess trying to use it up to the last second than just making a new batch.
I also got some LONG tube socks and cut out the toe and used them for work sleeves to protect my arms and keep my work shirt (yeah, I have a dedicated one just for fiber glassing) from getting too stiff.
I found that you need to get the more or less flat surfaces about 3/8" thick to pass the thump test. I could rap any surface on the box and all you got was a dull thump. Any resonance was too much for me. Think a dead hammer on dirt; not a drum!
I really preferred using the cloth over the felt fiberglass. It is thicker, holds more resin and builds thickness faster and then used the felt to get a smoother surface for a final finish but I did not go for a gel-coat finish. I glued interior matching felt cloth on the fiberglass.
Let me know if you have any questions or want any pictures. It was quite an experience and the results were very pleasing to me but it was a messy start until I got the proportions and the technique down.
Last edited by jrnorman; Jun 24, 2009 at 08:06 PM.

If you can fit it in. Or a combination of figerglass and MDF. Sometimes you just can't get enough volume and fit it tight with just MDF.
I just did tweeter pods for my Mustang and the first one was a nightmare and looked terrible...the second one was much better.
Last edited by mliebs; Jun 28, 2009 at 07:08 PM.
I had Jason built me a box and then had a custom top and sid ecompartment covers made. The top of my sub box was made in 1/8th inch plastic and then done in the black hydro carbon finish.
It loookes awesome in the car. Just another option for you













