Im sure this problem is an easy fix, but it's beating me to death at the moment. Yesterday I took apart my 2005 C6 with Nav/Bose and added an amp with two subs in the trunk. Last night it worked fine, but this morning when I went to drive I had no audio through any speakers whatsoever. The NAV system powers on, seems to function fine, and makes its own beeps (internal speaker) but other than that Im not even getting door chimes.

I tapped into the white antenna wire at pin B3, connector C1 behind the head unit for my sub amp remote and it had been working fine, but now it's not getting 12V for the remote signal and will not turn on. Also, for the sub outs I wired a high/low converter into pins A7/8 (yellow and brown) on the bose amp connector.

So far all I did to attempt to repair was remove the head unit and bose amp, and checked all connections. Everything seems to be fine, so I was thinking maybe there is a fuse somewhere (inside bose amp or nav headunit, maybe?) I don't know about.

Ideas?

 

If you haven't seen them, the schematics are available here

If you're lucky your problem will be that you accidentally cut through the white B3 wire when tapping it That wire is powered directly from the stock radio (which you say powers up just fine), so unless there's a bad connection or cut wire between the HU and amp, you may be looking at a problem with the HU.

I'd try turning on the radio with it half hanging out of the dash and put a meter on B3 at the connector on the back of the radio. Shove a peper clip into the pin if your probe is too fat, just be careful not to short it out on anything. If you have power at the plug, then B3 is cut somewhere.

A7/8 are the speaker outputs for the rear twiddler. I was under the impression that the bass signal was NOT present at the twiddlers. You may not get much bass from your subs even if you do get the trigger wire working again.

 

Ill check B3 with a meter tomorrow, but even if it is cut (which im skeptical of) then shouldnt I get audio from other sources than the antenna/FM (ie: chimes, CD, Aux, etc)?

Also, on the schematic I followed, A7/8 goes to both of the L/R Rear speakers but I don't know which. The bass sounded fine when it was working last night, but the schematic I'm using is here:

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...m+Sound+System

Scroll all the way down the page and click the attachment "2006premiumradio.pdf"

Let me know if there is somewhere else I should tap in.

 

The radio listens in on the serial data wire that lets all of the cars computer modules talk to each other. In addition to using that data to know when it should be on/off, the radio also generates whatever tones the other computers tell it to, then combines the tone/warning sounds with whatever music is playing at the time and sends everything to the amp. Just like your sub amp, the stock amp has a constant 12v supply, and is turned on by a 12v trigger. The white wire at B3 is what turns on the stock amp. If the radio is turning on, but you're not hearing anything from any speakers at all, combined with the fact that you said you lost the 12v trigger at your sub amp, then the logical conclusion is that something isn't right with the 12v that should be on the B3 wire when the radio is playing. If you still had 12v at the sub trigger, but no sound from the speakers, then it would look like you blew the amp fuse 31. For your sake, I hope the radio is still putting out that 12v signal and there's just something wrong with the wire. B3 may be labeled "antenna enable signal", but it does a lot more than just power the antenna modules.

I work on electrical problems at work every day. If a wire gets nicked, kinked, or damaged in just about any way, the area that is available to pass current goes down, which ends up creating heat, which then further damages the wire. Eventually the wire splits, just like a fuse would, when it has too much current going through it for the available area. If you used a splice tap that was a bit too small, you may have just caused the wire to split under the insulation.

One thing you can try even before getting out the meter is just cutting the white wire, 1/2" away from the splice on both sides, then strip both ends of that wire along with the new sub trigger wire, and twist them all together. Then see if everything works.

You can see ALL of the C6 schematics and plug pinouts scanned out of my '07 service manual here.

If you get everything powered up and have bass at your subs, congrats, but most others who have tried weren't able to use the rear speaker wires for a bass signal source. You'd need to use the line level signal going to the door subs, or tap the speaker level signal at the actual subs inside the doors.

Let us know what you find