If you surf the net, you can get some really good deals and save a lot of money. I'm running a couple of old phoenix gold amps that were 300 for both. I bought some precision power components off of ebay for 135 which were rebadged a/d/s components that sound awesome. I bought 2 boston acoustics g3 10's from crutchfield that were buy one get one free at 219. I found an audio control eqs on clearance at car toys for 175. Throw in 300 for the head unit and 200 on carpet, wood, sound deadener, and wire, and the sound is incredible. I did all my own installation, and I spent a total of about 1400. To have everything installed, I was quoted about 1200, in case you want to have it done. With the help of everybody on the forum, you would surprised at what you can do. It just takes some time and a lot of patience. The improvement over the stock radio can't even be measured. It was a huge difference.

 

You don't need a "box" for the amp. Since you only have the one PDX, your best option may be to simply glue a piece of wood behind the passenger seat like Patches did in his install. That would also put the amp right next to a factory ground location.

How are you going to want all of the wires connected? If you're OK with properly done crimp-connectors, you'll need some of those (wiring kits never have enough, and interface adapters don't even come with them). Otherwise, a soldering iron and some thin rosin core solder, along with plenty of heat shrink and/or electrical tape.

A bundle of zip-ties is a must.

The 9140 has several wires that need to be attached to misc OEM wires in the car. Again, clamp-on wire taps will work, but many like to solder (if possible).

You need to connect the amp power wire to the battery and run it into the cabin. I only had 8 gauge, so I used the bolt by the fuse box. To get to the cabin I ran it out to the quarterpanel then in through the accordian for the door wires (so I didn't have to mess with coming through the firewall, pics here). Since you have 4 gauge power you need to connect directly to the battery, you'll probably need something for that unless your wiring kit is really top notch. Add a grommet if you want to cut a new hole in the firewall.

Another set of RCA cables is needed so you can use the "sub preout" from the 9140 on ch 3/4 of the amp. Wait until you figure out where the amp will be mounted and buy a good set that isn't too much longer than what's required to get there. Use that new set for ch 1/2, then use the one in the amp kit for the sub.

You may need another roll of speaker wire, again depending on where you put everything.

How are you on tools? Wire strippers, crimpers, multi-meter, torx screwdriver and nut driver for the dash removal....

That's it off the top of my head

If you want to drive down here my offer to help with your install still stands, most of the things I just mentioned are sitting around in my garage collecting dust

 

Mark, Thanks a lot for the info. I think I am fairly well covered on most everything you have mentioned except maybe the multi-meter. What is that used for?

I am still deciding where to put the amp. Do you think the Alpine amp that I have fit behind the passenger's seat? It's about 2.5" thick and that doesn't include any type of mount. I was thinking of modifying my Madvette VET BIN that I just received, to mount the amp behind the driver's seat.

I just ordered Madvette's sub box that has a low profile and utilizes the driver's side rear cubby. It should work just fine with the low profile 10" Kenwood sub that I have ordered.

I have ordered 50 feet of good quality OFC speaker wire. I also bought a good amp wiring kit that has what I need to hook up the amp. I have several very good quality RCA cables, 2 pairs 17 feet and 1 (4 rca) Monster cable of 13 feet.

I have lots of tools.

I will want to go with the soldering iron and heat shrink for the connecting wires. I need to get some 'heat shrink' stuff. I guess I can find that at Radio Shack?

The only problems that I am dealing with right now are, I can't seem to get the control cover off the FRONT of my Alpine amp. The instructions say to just take out the screw on the left front with an Allen wrench and you should be able to take off the cover. For the life of me I cannot get it to come off. I may have to go to a local install place and ask them if they know how to get it off.

The other thing is the tweeters. My Element Design speakers came with NO papers whatsoever. You saw the photos in my other thread with the tweeters. I was able to unscrew the 1 3/8" inch 'tube that came attached to the tweeters but I cannot seem to understand how either of the other 2 plastic mounts are attached to the tweeter or how they would mount to the door panel (using a speaker mounting board). I do understand that one is for flat mounting and the other is designed for an 'angular' mount.

I am just in the process of learning how this will all come together and each day I get a clearer picture and am starting to get a good idea of how everything gets installed.

I am still considering taking you up on your generous offer sometime in latter March or April if you can find a weekend that will work for you.

Thanks for everyone's help!

 

call the guys at elemental designs they will help you out, the tweeter should snap right into the other mount of your choice, i have never had an issue mounting them

 

You'd only need the multi-meter if you need to troubleshoot a problem, hopefully you won't need it.

I've been buying my misc electrical items at Lowes or Home Depot lately. They both have a much better selection than RS at better prices. RS has all but eliminated their 12v car section, and the stuff they do have is a bit overpriced. Surprisingly, Wal-Mart also has a pretty good selection of misc electrical installation parts in the car audio isle.

That amp should fit behind the passenger seat just fine unless your wife is 6' tall and puts the seat back all the way. In the hatch area works also, it's all good as long as YOU like the end result.

I couldn't find anything on the ED site, but you can click here for the Polk speaker manual, look at page 10 for the tweeter mounting diagram. You should have a few screws and metal brackets that came with the speakers.

 

Nope, the only thing that came (for the tweeter) was the tweeter itself and the short tube like plastic piece attached to it and the other 2 pieces that you saw in the pics.

The only screws where for mounting the crossovers.

Here are some more photos where I took off the tube like plastic that was attached to the tweeter and tried the other 2 plastic pieces.

This shows the tweeter mounted to the flat piece the only 2 different ways that are possible.


These 2 photos show the tweeter sitting in the other plastic mount the ONLY way possible. I THINK that the tweeter could be pushed down into this piece, and it might 'snap' into it for possible rotation or slight movement for aiming the sound.

 

It looks like it might snap into one of the plastic mounts but not the flat mount one.

I will have to contact Elemental Designs and ask them about this.

I also want to know why there was no instructions or papers of any kind with my speakers.

They speakers did come in an Elemental Designs box and everything was wrapped in plastic and looks brand new.

ADDED INFO

I went to Elemental Designs website and found these 2 photos:

I did not receive the bottom center piece in this photo!




I have come to the conclusion that I did not get everything that should have been in a brand new box.

I will call them tomorrow.

 

u have the bottom center piece, they are already snapped together in the pic where u have the tweeter on top. pull the 2 pieces apart, tweeter in the middle, snap em together

 

Well D@*#M, That explains a lot. It would have helped if I had received some documentation.

NOW, I see how the tweeters mount.

Now if I could just get the front cover off of my amp I would be in good shape.

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UPDATE: Greg, I went by a local stereo install place today at lunch and the guy there was nice enough to take an Alpine amp out of the box and show me how his front came off. His came off very easy. Mine has to be stuck. I think that I will have to loosen the screws at the bottom just slightly and I should be able to get it off.

At least now I KNOW how it SHOULD come off.
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Greg Thanks, Randy !