Well I started the process of gathering the parts to put NAV in the C5Z.

After lots of research I decided to sway away from MSN Direct since it is being discontinued as a service Jan 2012.

I am fearing the new units that come with MSN direct are going to drop like a rock in value once this happens. I could be wrong, and maybe there will be other options in the future (or present with these units), but my limited research and gut feel told me to stay away from MSN Direct.

That left me a few options (new and used and it appeared the new Kenwood just about to released is going to be Navtec).

I really wanted Sat Radio, live traffic updates, and the ability if the wifey and I take a road trip out in "Timbukto" to listen to decent radio and have live traffic updates.
I was ok with a low monthly subscription for the ability of these services in the middle of no where.. that narrowed it down to XM NavTraffic in my mind.

So the search was on.... I could piece a new unit together from Pioneer or go used. I decided to go with a Pioneer Avic-Z2.

I've been doing a little research on these, and it appears you can upgrade the hard drive for more capacity, as well as upgrade the software at the same time to the Z3 model.
That's coming in the future before the install.

I also liked the ability that it will copy approx up to 200 CD's onto the hard drive to create a library without hauling around those dang CD storage units. (I haven't progressed to a IPOD yet, sorry everyone).

Unfortunately I didn't research enough all of the cables required with the options on the unit that was used on CL. Looks like I am missing a few cables.
The sad part of this, its 50% cheaper to purchase a new Sat Receiver package than pick up the missing cables and its dedicated antenna. Ordered new unit.... dang why did I rush into purchasing this?

IPOD option: again missing one cable. Same price to purchase the whole package than just the cable. Ordered new unit.... dang why did I rush into purchasing this?

Final missing pieces for the head unit are a couple of the hacked up cables from previous install and the mounting brackets.
I am not sure if I need the mounting brackets just yet, since I need to talk to Dennis (Double D) on what comes with the parts he offers for mounting the unit in the C5.
So it looks like I'll order the replacements for the hacked up cables tomorrow from Pioneer parts. I probably could make it work, but I am little **** and hate scabbing stuff together.

Now I have to save up for the extra radio bezel for the Double D mod, and the misc extra parts from Dennis to make this system work with the stock Bose speakers, and keep the RAP (I believe that the right acronym for that option).

Does anyone know for sure with the pioneer units if you really need that flexible metal pad underneath the HU GPS antenna puck? If so, maybe I install the puck in the void just behind the rear tail lights.. I believe that is sheet metal.

Also: Can you install the XM Sat antenna puck reasonably close to the HU GPS puck?

Also got a back up camera as part of the package. I think that will be cool as a daily driver backing in to the parking stalls.

So I'll be a couple months yet before the final install, but thought I share my experiences so far.

I do feel the purchase price of the package was OK now that I have to purchase a few parts, but I am hoping it will be awesome and really update the C5Z once its installed. But most of all, I will not have this skeleton in the closet bothering me of what my options would be in 2002 when MSN Direct goes by by...

PS: Forgot one last thing. The final straw in making this decision easier was a couple days ago driving down the road talking to the wife on the cell phone. With an accident coming up on the right (whole bunch of fire trucks etc), a C6 in front of me, and talking to the wife, I almost side swiped a car in the left lane going my direction (45 mph arterial, 2 lanes each way). Its just not worth it anymore in my mind to risk driving a manual tranny and talking on the phone at the same time. This unit has Blue Tooth capable phone operation! Finally I can get into the 21st century on this and be safe!
PSS: I rolled my window down and apologized to the driver to try and recover some Kharma at the next light and I was off the phone.

Andy

 

Andy.
Congrats on your Z2 pick up. I have had mine for about 2 years and find it brings our loved C5's into the hi teck era.
I put my GPS antenna behind the rear tail light as well. You may be able to get a small piece of sheet metal and make your own back plate using 2 sided tape of some glue for it.
You will need a antenna plug adapter and if you plan on keeping your OEM speakers you will need a PAC OEM-1 interface to keep the Bose system.
I just removed mine because I am installing a amp, sub and new speakers. It works fine, I no longer need it. I will be selling it soon.
You will love the blue tooth, camera is ok. Good luck, here is a shot of mine.

 

I have an avic, I mounted the ant near the rear view mirror where the glass is blacked out, easy to run the cables around the trim. try ebay for the cables. i sold a few extra cables i had there.

 

What is your opinion of the functionality of the Z2? Is it a waste of money to upgrade it to a Z3 for appox $120?

 

I was ok ordering the sat and ipod packages again.
It gives me some spare parts if they crap out in the future.

Which way did you mount the puck? ie base of puck to window OR top of puck to window? I have two pucks to mount.
I read in the manuals to avoid mounting them close to each other to avoid interference .

 

I have enjoyed my Z2 for a couple of years now and like the functionality. The Z3 upgrade, I will probably do at some point. It has newer maps and better graphics on the map screen, not to mention the larger library function.
The up grade is easy and you can do it later from just inside the front screen, no need to remove the HU.

 

Hmm Im not really sure my atenna was a small black bow, I installed tghe wire tail to the top?? Is that what u meant??

 

Gents: I've been doing a little reading of the owners manual.

It appears the unit has a built in amp and if my NOVICE mind understood the manual: I believe you can drive a sub without a external amp at the same time as the front & rear speakers.

I am HOPING that maybe I can gut the BOSE speakers front and rear, and maybe drop in a small sub at the same time as the installation of the head unit.
This maybe do-able in my mind if I don't have to mount a external sub etc. I just don't have the experience yet to plan appropriately for cross-overs etc that I may need. Frankly I don't even understand what the function of cross-overs are at this point. I can study this, but before I spend the extra time my question is:

Does anyone with experience with the Pioneer AVIC-Z1/Z2/Z3 know for sure if it has the ability to drive new front/rear speakers with a additional sub without a external amp?

PS: I will post this on the AVIC 411 site as well.

Thanks all. Andy

 

no way, u cant drive a sub w/o real power.

 

Here is the verbiage out of the book, plus the audio spec's below that.
What do you think? I've asked the question on AVIC411 as well, but that usually takes a few days since the traffic is soo much lower on that website.

Setting the rear output and subwoofer
controller
The navigation system’s rear output can be used
for full-range speaker or subwoofer connection. If
you switch the Rear SP setting to Sub.w, you
can connect a rear speaker lead directly to a subwoofer
without using an auxiliary amp.
Initially, the navigation system is set for rear fullrange
speaker connection. When rear output is
connected to full-range speakers (when Rear SP
setting is Full), you can connect the RCA subwoofer
output (SUBWOOFER OUTPUT or NONFADING
OUTPUT) to a subwoofer. In this case,
you can select whether to use the subwoofer controller’s
(low pass filter, phase) built-in amp of the
navigation system or the auxiliary amp or subwoofer.
❒ If you change the subwoofer controller [Rear
SP] or [Preout], [Sub Woofer] or [Non Fading]
in the Audio Settings menu return to
the factory settings.
❒ Both rear speaker leads output and RCA rear
output are switched simultaneously in this
setting.
❒ Rear SP can be set only when the source is
[OFF].
1 Touch [Rear SP] in the System Settings
menu.
2 Touch [Full] or [Sub.w] to switch the rear
output setting.
❒ When no subwoofer is connected to the
rear output, select Full. When a subwoofer
is connected to the rear speaker leads
directly, select Sub.w.
3 Touch [Preout] to switch the subwoofer
output or non fading output.
❒ When the [Rear SP] setting is Sub.w,
[Preout] is invalid.
❒ Even if you change this setting, there is no
output unless you turn [Non Fading] or
[Sub Woofer] in the Audio Settings
menu [On].
➲ “Using non fading output” ➞ Page 152
➲ “Using subwoofer output” ➞ Page 152


Using subwoofer output
The navigation system is equipped with a subwoofer
output which can be turned on or off.
❒ When the subwoofer output is on, you can
adjust the cut-off frequency, the output level,
and the phase of the subwoofer.
1 Touch [Sub Woofer] in the Audio Settings
menu.
When Preout (the subwoofer controller setting
in System Settings menu) is Full, you
cannot select [Sub Woofer].
➲ “Setting the rear output and subwoofer
controller” ➞ Page 158
2 Touch [On] to turn subwoofer output on.
To turn subwoofer output off, touch [Off].
3 Touch [Reverse] or [Normal] to select the
phase of subwoofer output.
❒ If subwoofer output sound is not clear with
[Normal], change it to [Reverse].
4 Touch  or  to select cut-off frequency.
Each time you touch  or  selects cut-off frequencies
in the following order:
50 — 80 — 125 (Hz)
Only frequencies lower than those in the
selected range are output from the subwoofer.
5 Touch [+] or [–] to adjust the output level
of the subwoofer.
+6 to –6 is displayed as the level is increased
or decreased


Audio Features
Built-in Speaker Power MOSFET 50W x 4
Continuous Power Output 22W x 4
Equalizer EEQ (3-Band Parametric)
Loudness 3 Mode
Source Level Adjuster (SLA) Yes
High-Pass Crossover (HPF) 50/80/125Hz, -12dB/Oct.
Subwoofer Crossover (LPF) 50/80/125Hz, -12dB/Oct.
RCA Preouts 3 pair (Front, Rear, Sub/Non-Fading)
Preout Voltage 2.2V, 1k Ohm

 

The RMS (continuous) rating of the internal amp is 22w per channel. That's about the same as the stock setup, maybe barely a bit more. From reading the info you posted from the manual, it looks like the HU lets you bridge the rears. That would give you 44 watts RMS going to whatever sub you install. As power for a sub goes, that just plain sucks. I doubt it would get as loud as the stock door subs do. Plus, if you did the radio powered sub, you'd loose the rear speakers. One thing just about everyone on the forum can agree on, if you remove the stock door subs, you need an external amp driving a new sub in the back

Crossovers are the boxes in this pic. The 'full signal' output from an amp goes into the crossover. The crossover splits the full signal into highs that it sends to the 1" tweeter, and mids that it sends to the 6" speaker. You can send a full signal to any speaker, and it will play music, but they sound much better if you only send the signals that it was designed to play. FYI, a pair of speakers like in the pic above is called a 'component' setup, something all in one package like this is a 'coaxial' speaker. The coax usually has the same parts as a component setup, but takes up less room, and sometimes has crossovers built in so the external box is eliminated also.

Component speakers are preferred over coax due to the ability to aim the tweeters. Components also require more power in order to sound good, which again means an external amp is required.

 

Thank you for taking the time out of your day to provide the novice (that's me ) some good advice. So my little short cut dream turns into a no-go reality. I kinda expected that, since I doubted I was smart enough to recreate the wheel in this scenario.

Does anyone make a Z06 partition (or a sub housing that can fit on the shelf between the rear seats/partition) to mount some subs? I really don't want to give up the large void in the back for a sub, and I really don't want to go with a sound mitigation project in the rear of the car at the same time as the installation of the AVIC. I would really like to try and maintain the isolation between the trunk area and the cabin area.


Andy

 

I didnt read the new post, but the outputs are for the rca's into the amp with cross over points (low pass0 so the lows pass through and the highs do not. If ur in Ny Ill give u a hand.

 

I don't recall ever seeing any, but it wouldn't be too hard to convert something like this into a DIY sub box (if that's what you currently have).