I just successfully drilled out the rivets and pulled the stock HU bracket. I've read many threads that say to simply turn it upside down to re-use the same bracket with a DD head unit, but I can't recall seeing how others have reattached it to the rails?

 

Aah, never mind. After doing some more reading it looks like I'll be able to do without that bracket all together since my double din bezel is going to include the factory ashtray option and hence, the HU is going to basically be sitting right atop the HVAC controller. Now all I have to do is fabricate some mounting brackets for the new HU. I don't know what possessed me to think that I could remove the ones from the AC Delco unit and re-use them on the Pioneer Z110BT

But hey, here's a new question: I bought the PAC ROEM-VET1 so I can continue to use the stock amps and door woofers for the time being. Until I get my second wind. (I've already replaced the rear speakers and door twiddlers with better speakers).

So my question is this, is there any reason that I wouldn't want to do all the wiring connections that I can make between the AVIC harness and the PAC harness inside the house, where I can solder the connections and shrink tube them if that's what I want to do? Barring that, what's the preferred method for joining wires end to end for these installations? Thanks in advance and forgive the noob questions.

 

when i did my DD install last year, i originally just wanted a new head unit and to keep the stock door speakers. i installed the HU with the PAC harness and everything worked great.

i then changed my mind and added 2 aftermarket amps. i kept the PAC harness installed and just wired the amp to the new door speakers directly. leaving the PAC in there makes things much easier than having to hard-wire everything yourself.

also, even though you can mount the HU without the bottom support bracket that you cut out, you may find that the HU will shake slightly when going over bumps at moderate speeds. if you can rig up a way to support your HU from the bottom/rear, you should do it. after i modified my setup, i now have no jiggle whatsoever.

 

Okay, so how did you "rig up" a way to support your HU from underneath? How did you fasten a supporting back to the rails? Or did you go with metal strapping tape or something else?

 

Here is what I used to mount my Dbl Din, they came with the package deal I got from Dennis.........

http://www.doubledmods.com/Corvette-...ckets-ACC1.htm

These brackets are all I used on a Kenwood 5120 install (I used a dbl din bezel w/ashtray and removed the support like you did) and I have never noticed any movement in the HU while driving.


Good Luck......

 

Definitely solder what you can if that's an option and you don't mind doing it. In my car I use butt-splices, but I connect them like wire-nuts. By that I mean that I twist the two wires together like I was going to use a wire-nut, but then crimp on a butt-splice. I've never had any issues with bad connections, and if you ever want to add another gizmo in the future the open end of the butt-splice is very easy to use.

Post #3 of the C5 FAQ has good pics of how to mount the DD conversion HU brackets.

 

Here's how I did mine.



Here's the entire thread if you want to see more photos of it.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...-overhaul.html

 

well the majority of the HU is heald by the L-brackets made by dennis in the link posted above.

this supports much of the weight of the HU but towards the back on the bottom of the HU you can push up on it and feel it wiggle.

this slight wiggle on the screen is what i noticed when traveling over uneven pavement.

i have no pics, but what i did was used 2 long, skinny, tapered triangular plastic pieces on either side of the rear of the HU and wedged them up in between the metal cage sides and the HU itself. the friction of being held in place by the plastic wedges made the HU rock solid and 100% jiggle free.

i'm sure there are other ways to engineer increased stability to a HU, but this was an easy quick-and-dirty fix that has held up quite well for me.

 

Thanks gents. Patches, I just went out to Home Depot and bought some #14 x 3/4" panhead screws that I hope to use; very similar to what you have done. My only concern is that I drilled out the holes too big to do that. If that's the case, I'm going to use a plastic wall anchor and shove it through to tighten up the holes through the bracket and rails. Either way, I should have the problem solved.

I also bought a large quantity of butt connectors. I was planning on doing just as you describe, patches, that is, twisting the wires together first before crimping, but these connectors look like they have spiral wiring in them like wire nuts instead of the plain metal barrel that I was expecting. Strange. Oh well, I think they'll still work.

Jason, you said that you installed the PAC interface like the one I'm putting in. Does that take care of all the wiring needs of HU, including power and ground?

I decided that I'm not patient enough to order a set of rails from Dennis and wait until the latter part of next week to get this thing installed, so I bought some of the identical 1" wide aluminum stock, guestimate that I need to cut off a couple of 5" lengths, drill some holes and bend the ends into a right angle and I'll essentially have the same thing. I don't mind the time to fabricate the brackets. It'll give me something to do tomorrow in the garage while it's raining outside.

 

yes all but the ground i believe. the black wire coming off the HU needs to be grounded to the cage or some other suitable area around the HU.

i'm no longer totally positive on how it went because my install was about a year ago.

 

Thank you. It looks like I might also need to connect the red wire from the PAC harness to a switched positive, which I located in a different thread, under the steering column. It's all coming together now. The whole thing is a tad daunting, but considering that I'm already halfway done, I guess I should be fine with the rest of it. The bracket fabrication is my only real hassle to contend with now, I guess. I sure wish that somebody made OEM style brackets that match the factory ears with the holes that slide over the mounting pegs on the rail, as well. That would be very slick. I saw in the FAQ sticky that someone fabricated a really nice set that did just that. It's too bad that the factory system didn't use removable brackets that could simply be transferred to the new HU. That would have been a lucky break. Oh well!

 

oh yeah, i do remember now about that wire specifically.

i have a bit more with the 12v switched wire on my install here:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...lled-pics.html

 

Ah yes, thank you. Was that brown wire you tapped into located under the ignition switch and did you have to remove the panel under the steering wheel to access it? Also, I see that you stripped off some insulation and wrapped the red wire from the harness around it. What did you do to secure and insulate the junction? Just tape it? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm about to try and get mine installed today and tomorrow, if at all possible...

 

yes and yes.

i just wrapped the bare 12v wire around the ignition brown as pictured and electrical-taped it. no issues.

looking forward to your full thread writeup on your new system.

 

Time to finish this cup of coffee, get out to the garage and do some work!

 

I scraped a small section of insulation off that brown switched ignition wire, then wrapped the red wire lead around it as you did, but before taping I also soldered the wires together, then wrapped it in that vinyl tape that sticks to itself. I need to tweak the PAC interface a bit, then it will be time to mount up the HU, but I did a power up test late this afternoon and everything seems to be working!