Problems using Metra Bose interface
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 130
Likes: 2
From: Saint Louis MO
Problems using Metra Bose interface
I installed my JVC headunit yesterday using the Metra Bose interface sold by Crutchfield. I have two problems:
#1: The radio stays on all the time, unless I deliberately turn it off. When turing off the ignition or opening the door, the radio stays on. I thought the Metra device was supposed to supply the necessary switched power wire?
#2: The red light does not illuminate on the Metra device, and the door subs are not turning on. The other speakers seem to work use fine.
What is going on there?
Is the unit defective, or is there wiring issues? I simply installed the device using the very sparse Metra instructions included with the unit.
Thanks for any help you all can provide!
-David
#1: The radio stays on all the time, unless I deliberately turn it off. When turing off the ignition or opening the door, the radio stays on. I thought the Metra device was supposed to supply the necessary switched power wire?
#2: The red light does not illuminate on the Metra device, and the door subs are not turning on. The other speakers seem to work use fine.
What is going on there?
Is the unit defective, or is there wiring issues? I simply installed the device using the very sparse Metra instructions included with the unit.
Thanks for any help you all can provide!
-David
Navigator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Bowman SC
I just installed mine as well and I am having the same problems...the only thing i could possibly think is that the wiring diagram is wrong or something is screwed up with the units themselves (which hopefully its just wiring). I am going to try and connect the power directly to the accessory wire off the ignition when i get a chance this weekend and see if that helps the issue, but any other help would be greatly appreciated!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,289
Likes: 16
From: Skippack PA
St Jude Donor '13
Look at the instructions carefully and you'll see why I recommend the Peripheral-now-PAC modules. It requires you go to Radio Shack and buy a 12V relay and wire it in. There is not switched 12V power in the factory harness so the module has to read the data bus and create it using a relay. The instructions are there, you just have to know that it is required
This is assuming you guys are talking about C6.
This is assuming you guys are talking about C6.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,787
Likes: 139
From: Las Vegas NV
I installed my JVC headunit yesterday using the Metra Bose interface sold by Crutchfield. I have two problems:
#1: The radio stays on all the time, unless I deliberately turn it off. When turing off the ignition or opening the door, the radio stays on. I thought the Metra device was supposed to supply the necessary switched power wire?
#2: The red light does not illuminate on the Metra device, and the door subs are not turning on. The other speakers seem to work use fine.
What is going on there?
Is the unit defective, or is there wiring issues? I simply installed the device using the very sparse Metra instructions included with the unit.
Thanks for any help you all can provide!
-David
#1: The radio stays on all the time, unless I deliberately turn it off. When turing off the ignition or opening the door, the radio stays on. I thought the Metra device was supposed to supply the necessary switched power wire?
#2: The red light does not illuminate on the Metra device, and the door subs are not turning on. The other speakers seem to work use fine.
What is going on there?
Is the unit defective, or is there wiring issues? I simply installed the device using the very sparse Metra instructions included with the unit.
Thanks for any help you all can provide!
-David
The Merta interface has whats called the RAP (Retained Acc Power) the head unit will stay on until the one of the doors is opened. As for the subs for the Bose you need to hook the head unit remote power (the wire that would power up your amps) connect it to the blue wire in the interface control box then your door sub will work.
If you do not want to use the RAP feature them use a 12V ignition power for the head unit and it will come on and off with the ignition key.
Hope this help you some.
Navigator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Bowman SC
The Merta interface has whats called the RAP (Retained Acc Power) the head unit will stay on until the one of the doors is opened. As for the subs for the Bose you need to hook the head unit remote power (the wire that would power up your amps) connect it to the blue wire in the interface control box then your door sub will work.
If you do not want to use the RAP feature them use a 12V ignition power for the head unit and it will come on and off with the ignition key.
Hope this help you some.
If you do not want to use the RAP feature them use a 12V ignition power for the head unit and it will come on and off with the ignition key.
Hope this help you some.
Thanks I know I did not plug the blue wire into my interface so I will give that a shot when I get home! But yeah the power issue I am not sure what is up with that it may be related but i doubt it, I will probably tie into the switch if all else fails. Thanks for the help!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 130
Likes: 2
From: Saint Louis MO
I understand the RAP feature, but please note that my radio is staying on regardless of opening the door or not - if I don't turn the power off at the radio, it will stay on forever.
I have the power antenna/remote wire hooked up correctly, but some posts on here suggest the need to connect that to a different wire in the factory harness in order to turn the bose system on? Anyone know about this?
Also, if I want to get a switched power signal, where can I get this? You mentioned a wire under the ignition? What color and where? Any other sources?
I have the power antenna/remote wire hooked up correctly, but some posts on here suggest the need to connect that to a different wire in the factory harness in order to turn the bose system on? Anyone know about this?
Also, if I want to get a switched power signal, where can I get this? You mentioned a wire under the ignition? What color and where? Any other sources?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,787
Likes: 139
From: Las Vegas NV
I understand the RAP feature, but please note that my radio is staying on regardless of opening the door or not - if I don't turn the power off at the radio, it will stay on forever.
I have the power antenna/remote wire hooked up correctly, but some posts on here suggest the need to connect that to a different wire in the factory harness in order to turn the bose system on? Anyone know about this?
Also, if I want to get a switched power signal, where can I get this? You mentioned a wire under the ignition? What color and where? Any other sources?
I have the power antenna/remote wire hooked up correctly, but some posts on here suggest the need to connect that to a different wire in the factory harness in order to turn the bose system on? Anyone know about this?
Also, if I want to get a switched power signal, where can I get this? You mentioned a wire under the ignition? What color and where? Any other sources?
As for powering the Bose subs blue to blue connection should work it always has for me.
maybe some one else has some insight on this issue.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
In C5 the blue/white 'remote' wire from the HU needs to be connected to the dark green wire at pin 8 of the black plug in order to turn on the door subs.
In C6 the blue/white 'remote' wire from the HU needs to be connected to the white wire at pin B3 of the big plug in order to power up the stock amp.
Do not use the solid blue wire coming out of the HU, it's only powered when you're listening to the radio, use the blue/white wire.
The red, yellow, and black wires from the interface need to be connected to the same wires on the HU. It will listen in on the cars data wire and control the 'switched' power with the RAP feature.
If you have everything connected as above, the interface may be bad (if it won't power down), or you may just need to use a relay as the instructions probably show (if it won't power up).
In C6 the blue/white 'remote' wire from the HU needs to be connected to the white wire at pin B3 of the big plug in order to power up the stock amp.
Do not use the solid blue wire coming out of the HU, it's only powered when you're listening to the radio, use the blue/white wire.
The red, yellow, and black wires from the interface need to be connected to the same wires on the HU. It will listen in on the cars data wire and control the 'switched' power with the RAP feature.
If you have everything connected as above, the interface may be bad (if it won't power down), or you may just need to use a relay as the instructions probably show (if it won't power up).
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Racer
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 423
Likes: 20
From: Ontario
I'm about to install my alpine cda 9886 in the next month or so using the Metra harness...
I just wanted to know if you ended up fixing your problem, so that way if I run into the same problem I know how to deal with it.
I just wanted to know if you ended up fixing your problem, so that way if I run into the same problem I know how to deal with it.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 130
Likes: 2
From: Saint Louis MO
I gave up on the product - I had everything correctly connected according to the directions.
I decided to replace the stock speakers with better ones, eliminating the need for the harness.
Disappointing, but a good result in the end.
-David
I decided to replace the stock speakers with better ones, eliminating the need for the harness.
Disappointing, but a good result in the end.
-David
6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
I've just installed an Alpine unit in my '93 with a Metra harness supplied by Crutchfield and after turning it on for the first time the tuner did not work at all. This was due to an open circuit on the antenna cable from Metra (no continuity on the center conductor). Crutchfield replaced the harness quick enough, but running the cables from the rear deck to under the dash once was enough! My advice would be to check continuity of all the wires in the Metra Harness before you install it. Other than that it worked fine. Great unit.
Last edited by birdy; Apr 17, 2010 at 11:16 PM. Reason: typo
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 7,825
Likes: 0
From: Manassas VA
I installed my JVC HU yesterday as well, and used a ton of notes from the FAQ sticky. I did not use any interface, but got the factory speakers working thru the factory amps.
To answer the question about where to get a 12v switched source, if you remove the driver side knee bolster, there is a cluster of wires that run up almost directly behind the ignition switch. The fat brown wire is the 12v switched power. I stripped just enough of the sheath back to wrap my 12v switched HU wire around it, then soldered it in place.
It's good enough until I get my amp, sub, and component speakers ordered and shipped to me.
To answer the question about where to get a 12v switched source, if you remove the driver side knee bolster, there is a cluster of wires that run up almost directly behind the ignition switch. The fat brown wire is the 12v switched power. I stripped just enough of the sheath back to wrap my 12v switched HU wire around it, then soldered it in place.
It's good enough until I get my amp, sub, and component speakers ordered and shipped to me.
