C5 audio system questions
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 778
Likes: 1
From: Chantilly VA
C5 audio system questions
I had the door panels off this weekend and got me to wondering about speaker replacements. I've been reading the sticky on the C5 system and have some questions.
If I understand things correctly, the signal leaves the HU and goes to the Bose processor unit (BPU) and back to the HU (through a PA), then back out to the speakers. The front speakers now take these signals from the HU and are applied to twittlers and a local PA at the woofer.
So is this an amplified signal going to the local PA at the woofer? If I were to replace the front sets, would I need a new local PA to drive the new speaker replacing the woofer?
If I understand things correctly, the signal leaves the HU and goes to the Bose processor unit (BPU) and back to the HU (through a PA), then back out to the speakers. The front speakers now take these signals from the HU and are applied to twittlers and a local PA at the woofer.
So is this an amplified signal going to the local PA at the woofer? If I were to replace the front sets, would I need a new local PA to drive the new speaker replacing the woofer?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 778
Likes: 1
From: Chantilly VA
Yes, Local to the woofer speaker under the tweeter speaker. The schematics show this as an amplifier. PA=power amp.
I think I had read that also in the sticky. The schematics in the sticky show this. Any help out there???
I think I had read that also in the sticky. The schematics in the sticky show this. Any help out there???
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
The signal going IN to the door subs is line-level, it comes directly from the bose processor. The wires you can see on top of the big speakers have the already amplified speaker-level signals.
What exactly are you trying to do? Replacing the oem door subs with something else that's still in the doors is just a bad idea. Putting a real sub in the back with an external amplifier is the way to go.
What most do (and what gives you the best bang-for-your-buck) is install a 6.5" component set in the doors, then add a sub in the trunk. The center tub in C5 is perfect for a 10" aftermarket sub.
What exactly are you trying to do? Replacing the oem door subs with something else that's still in the doors is just a bad idea. Putting a real sub in the back with an external amplifier is the way to go.
What most do (and what gives you the best bang-for-your-buck) is install a 6.5" component set in the doors, then add a sub in the trunk. The center tub in C5 is perfect for a 10" aftermarket sub.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 778
Likes: 1
From: Chantilly VA
The signal going IN to the door subs is line-level, it comes directly from the bose processor. The wires you can see on top of the big speakers have the already amplified speaker-level signals.
What exactly are you trying to do? Replacing the oem door subs with something else that's still in the doors is just a bad idea. Putting a real sub in the back with an external amplifier is the way to go.
What most do (and what gives you the best bang-for-your-buck) is install a 6.5" component set in the doors, then add a sub in the trunk. The center tub in C5 is perfect for a 10" aftermarket sub.
What exactly are you trying to do? Replacing the oem door subs with something else that's still in the doors is just a bad idea. Putting a real sub in the back with an external amplifier is the way to go.
What most do (and what gives you the best bang-for-your-buck) is install a 6.5" component set in the doors, then add a sub in the trunk. The center tub in C5 is perfect for a 10" aftermarket sub.
I keep too much stuff in the tub - no boom boom speaker for me.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
If you are certain that you won't be adding a sub in the back you may want to consider keeping the door subs. Without either there will be a serious lack of bass.
If you do install components you'll need a new amp to properly power them, so just run new wires.
If you keep the door subs you can replace the 3.5" twiddlers with any 4 ohm 2-way for a pretty good improvement. Polk db351 and Boston Acoustic S35 are popular choices.
If you do install components you'll need a new amp to properly power them, so just run new wires.
If you keep the door subs you can replace the 3.5" twiddlers with any 4 ohm 2-way for a pretty good improvement. Polk db351 and Boston Acoustic S35 are popular choices.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 778
Likes: 1
From: Chantilly VA
If you are certain that you won't be adding a sub in the back you may want to consider keeping the door subs. Without either there will be a serious lack of bass.
If you do install components you'll need a new amp to properly power them, so just run new wires.
If you keep the door subs you can replace the 3.5" twiddlers with any 4 ohm 2-way for a pretty good improvement. Polk db351 and Boston Acoustic S35 are popular choices.
If you do install components you'll need a new amp to properly power them, so just run new wires.
If you keep the door subs you can replace the 3.5" twiddlers with any 4 ohm 2-way for a pretty good improvement. Polk db351 and Boston Acoustic S35 are popular choices.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
Racer
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 364
Likes: 3
From: Van Wert Ohio
Definitely only need to do the 3 1/2 fronts. I just did all 4 twiddlers with Polks. The Polk DB351 speakers made a nice improvement for not much money. I won't say the DB651 speakers in the back were a waste but close to it. Not much sound comes out back there.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 778
Likes: 1
From: Chantilly VA
Definitely only need to do the 3 1/2 fronts. I just did all 4 twiddlers with Polks. The Polk DB351 speakers made a nice improvement for not much money. I won't say the DB651 speakers in the back were a waste but close to it. Not much sound comes out back there.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
If the twiddler replacemnt is an improvement I may try that too. Twiddlers (twittlers), makes me think of the Monty Python skit of the Twit Olympics.
Hey thanks for the info and opinions. I'm not really looking for the "super system" just improvements. Keep them coming if you like.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 778
Likes: 1
From: Chantilly VA
I guess liking the sound coming from the back/rear is the old fart thing in me. All my old days cars, we would modify (even add a speaker) on the back deck. I'm talking the days of AM only and 8 tracks, 6x9's old stuff. I guess I just got used to liking the music coming from the back. Of course I like suround sound and new $*it, but a balance more from the back is what I like. I'm not talking just boom boom, highs and lows too. Call me crazy if you wish. Newer is better.
