Goal: Fuller sound especially when the top is off. Total stealth setup. Not looking to shake the mirrors. Keep OEM NAV head unit. Basically I just don't want the outside noise from having the top off at highway speed to over power the sound. I feel like I have to turn the volume all the way up to just hear the radio and then the quality is not so good.


Car: C6 GS coupe with nav/bose


So after some digging in this section, I'm pretty much overwhelmed by all the choices out there. I think I've narrowed it down to this. I probably need to upgrade the door speakers and add an amp. Possibly a sub but I just want bass to match the highs from the doors (not overpower the sound). As mentioned above, I'm not trying to blow the doors off with bass or sound for that matter. I'm not trying to win any shows. I'm going with the less is more mindset. I'd like to get parts that are great value. I don't need the biggest/best/newest products out there. Just some that will meet my goals with proven products.


So if you could please make some recommendations as to what brands/models meet my needs at a great value. Feel free to make setup suggestions and anything else you'd like to add based on your experience. I don't really have much in the way of experience so please spell it out in simple terms.

If anyone knows a install shop in Raleigh or any to stay away from, let me know thanks.


One more question, does having an amp draw much on your battery when the car is off? Any dead battery problems?

Thanks corvette forum!

 

A good basic setup to start with would be a pair of Pioneer Premier 720PRS's in the doors with an Alpine PDX amp. The PDX can be stuff in a cubbie in the trunk - has to be driver's side if you have Onstar. If you think you may add a sub then I'd go with either the PDX-5 and bridge the front channels for the front speakers or get a 4.150 and bridge the rears for a sub if you decide to install.

 

Do you have a set of hatch vent latches? The reason I ask is because in my 2001, when I drove with the roof off, especially at highway speed, wind noise was prevalent inside the cockpit before I got the latches. When I got the latches, since wind goes through the car insted of just swirling around inside, it made a pretty noticeable difference inside.

I'm not saying it was such a tremendous difference that I didn't want to upgrade the stereo, but noticeable enough that I didn't have to make a choice between driving topless and listening to music, or even having a conversation with a passenger without screaming.

This may be enough of a fix for you, without the headaches of modding the stereo. If the stereo sounds good enough to you with the roof on, I would definitely look into the vent latches.

Good luck!

 

Generally speaking, it takes power to overcome wind noise. Usually enough power that can "shake the mirrors", but it does not mean you have to use it that way. Like horsepower, you can never really have "too much" amplification IMO.

Asking a 50x4 (really 12-16w x 4) headunit to throw out enough power to be audible while cruising at 75 on the freeway with the top down is asking too much. Going to have to go to at least 50w per speaker/component to get there.

Lots of options here, read the "what do you run" sticky for ideas, come to us with a budget and we can help you out.

Fej

 

Sorry it took me so long to jump in here since I know you PMed me a few days ago.

You deff wanna read the C6 FAQ about how to tap for low level outputs and bring this to your installer because if they are non vette experience they will try to tap the rear speakers or sware up and down you need a pricey jl cleansweep or similar

As far as what I would do, add a sub of sorts to the rear, weather it be a JL stealthbox, or a subthump box with a shallow 10, you are going to want to add some sound deadner to the doors and a quality 6.5" component set and drive it all with a 4 channel amp. What all you go with depends on what you want to spend, I can recommend 20 different setups and there would be 100 more out there.

With car off how much with the amp draw off of your battery well its all porportional to how loud you have it, if you have it at low listening levels its only drawing minimally more then just the normal stereo would have. When the car is actually turned off the amp essentially draws nothing, it wont contribute to a dead battery problem.

Let me know if you are looking for specific model recommendations and let me know a rough budget and I can help you out

 

Thanks eveyone for your input. As per, what budget I'm looking for, its relative. What's more important is value. Just like the corvette is a great value sports car, I don't want to spend more than needed just because its a certain brand or the newest model. I'll spend whatever it takes to get the sound I want, I just hate the idea of spending more than I had to. If the car audio sectre is like others, some brands/models are more hype than anything else.


Mentioned above, are alpine and pioneer. These names have been around forever, are they a good value? As in bang for the buck.

A question raised by reading your comments, if I'm mainly looking to get adequate power to compensate for road noise @ highway speeds, do I really need the sub? I like the idea of getting an amp that can be tucked away in the cubby. A nice amp and nice components in the doors keeps the stock look.

So would the pioneer Premier 720PRS's in the doors with an Alpine PDX amp accomplish this without spending more than I needed to?

Prices I can look up on the internet, but what's your experience as to how much installation for this should run, including if sound deadner is needed.

thanks!

 

Who did you decide on for the instal? I live in eastern NC and am inrested in the same.