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C6 sub/amp install. What did I do wrong?

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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 10:38 PM
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Default C6 sub/amp install. What did I do wrong?

I spent most of the day doing a simple amp and single 10 sub install.

I have installed this exact same wire kit and amp and sub in 3 different vehicals and never had a problem. 97 blazer,01 camaro, and a 98 corvette.

Now in my 05 c6 vette with the bose Nav system.

I used this link to find the left and right +/- ( http://www.lazyassgeek.com/c6-stereo...-unit-harness/ )
Also I asked what is a good wire to use for the Remote wire, I was told the White Wire in B3 slot on the C1 plug.
For my 12v power I wired to the + terminal on the fuse box under the hood.
I ran the Ground to the ground screw on the B piller behind the seat.

But when I turn the car on there is no "power" signal to my amp, as in the power light did not turn on. I Tested the 12v connection and its hot, Tested the remote wire and its hot. And the Ground is grounded to a "ground".


I thought, well maybe its my amp, so I grabbed my old smaller watt amp and it also was getting "no Power" light.

All my fuses are still good. What is wrong???
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 10:57 PM
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how did u test the connections, DMM?

if you have GOOD and i stress good ground 12 volt in and 12 volt on remote it will come on
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by pentavolvo
how did u test the connections, DMM?

if you have GOOD and i stress good ground 12 volt in and 12 volt on remote it will come on
yes a DMM

Last edited by Tikiman12; Jun 6, 2010 at 11:28 PM.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 08:50 AM
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That's my site you linked to and I haven't used the B3 wire myself but Penta says it does work and he's done way more installs than me so I am certain it does. I know you checked the wires individually but I would make sure they power & ground to the amp are good together and the amp will turn on. So step 1 in your troubleshooting if you haven't done this - jumper the 12V from your 12+ connect to the amp to the trigger. If it turns on then you know you have the amp wired correctly and then you can just concentrate on the trigger.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by TheKomoman
That's my site you linked to and I haven't used the B3 wire myself but Penta says it does work and he's done way more installs than me so I am certain it does. I know you checked the wires individually but I would make sure they power & ground to the amp are good together and the amp will turn on. So step 1 in your troubleshooting if you haven't done this - jumper the 12V from your 12+ connect to the amp to the trigger. If it turns on then you know you have the amp wired correctly and then you can just concentrate on the trigger.
I have not tried that yet. I remember thinking about it lol, I'll give that a try after work today and let you know

Where did you wire your remote wire?
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Tikiman12
I have not tried that yet. I remember thinking about it lol, I'll give that a try after work today and let you know

Where did you wire your remote wire?
Before I switched to an aftermarket head and connected its trigger I used the seat heater fuse in the passenger footwell as a trigger. However the B3 has the advantage of working with RAP so it is a better choice. As a just-in-case... That B3 connector is in the C harness, not the B where you tap for the line level output.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 10:40 AM
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plain and simple if all the power is there it should work... where are u grounded at
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by pentavolvo
plain and simple if all the power is there it should work... where are u grounded at
I'm grounding to the ground screw that is under the plastic on the B-piller behind the passenger seat
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by TheKomoman
Before I switched to an aftermarket head and connected its trigger I used the seat heater fuse in the passenger footwell as a trigger. However the B3 has the advantage of working with RAP so it is a better choice. As a just-in-case... That B3 connector is in the C harness, not the B where you tap for the line level output.
? I only saw one white wire on the back of the head unit. It was in the largest of the 3 plugs, where i spliced for the line levels.

Which plug is the C harness? b/c there is no white wire on any other plug back there
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Tikiman12
? I only saw one white wire on the back of the head unit. It was in the largest of the 3 plugs, where i spliced for the line levels.

Which plug is the C harness? b/c there is no white wire on any other plug back there
Sorry.. think I sent you on a wild goose chase there, been too long since I hacked at the factory harness and I got lost in the B's & C's.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 02:17 PM
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plain and simple if u have 12 volts at remote wire then thats not ur problem
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by TheKomoman
Sorry.. think I sent you on a wild goose chase there, been too long since I hacked at the factory harness and I got lost in the B's & C's.
Ok so to clarify, the white wire I used is the white wire you see in in the plug that is shown in the picture from your website. Is this the correct wire?

Originally Posted by pentavolvo
plain and simple if u have 12 volts at remote wire then thats not ur problem
Thats what I'm saying, it should work but its not and I'd understand why. Wiring a sub is VERY strait forward, thats why i'm having just a hard time with this.(frustrated)
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