Polk db351 Installation
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 79
From: West Coast
Polk db351 Installation
Just a quick stupid question, doing a replace of the front Twiddlers with a new set of Polk db351
Will the new set just drop right in or will I need to create a new ring/template for them?
Also they came with a Bass Blocker Filter, since this connection comes from the Bose will the crossover be needed or can I just hook up the current Bose signal wire directly into them?
Last question I promise,
When mounting the Sub Amp to the back wall of C5 coupe, can I directly screw to the back wall and if so how long of screw before I do any damage?
Thanks a million!
Will the new set just drop right in or will I need to create a new ring/template for them?
Also they came with a Bass Blocker Filter, since this connection comes from the Bose will the crossover be needed or can I just hook up the current Bose signal wire directly into them?
Last question I promise,
When mounting the Sub Amp to the back wall of C5 coupe, can I directly screw to the back wall and if so how long of screw before I do any damage?
Thanks a million!
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
No need for bass blockers, works fine either way.
3.5" will drop right in, but there may be a small plastic tab you have to file down to get them to sit flush.
I used wood screws to hold my amp directly to the wall in C5, 1" is plenty long, IIRC there's a few inches of room back there. Pull off the wall to see what's there if you want to make sure.
3.5" will drop right in, but there may be a small plastic tab you have to file down to get them to sit flush.
I used wood screws to hold my amp directly to the wall in C5, 1" is plenty long, IIRC there's a few inches of room back there. Pull off the wall to see what's there if you want to make sure.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 79
From: West Coast
You da man Mark!
And great call on the double set of RCAs for the future Front Amp, that is in scope and will definitely run it out back now, good call!
Thank you
And great call on the double set of RCAs for the future Front Amp, that is in scope and will definitely run it out back now, good call!
Thank you
Last edited by BACNBLK; Jun 4, 2011 at 05:06 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 79
From: West Coast
Hey Mark,
New plan is to upgrade the old Amp for a nice 4/5 channel unit out back and run everything from that. That will minimize rework and keep the cabin much cleaner and clutter free.
So now No need for dual RCAs but I should prepare by running 4-sets of wires down the rails from back to front instead, correct?
Any recommendations on good choice of Amp?
Thanks!
New plan is to upgrade the old Amp for a nice 4/5 channel unit out back and run everything from that. That will minimize rework and keep the cabin much cleaner and clutter free.
So now No need for dual RCAs but I should prepare by running 4-sets of wires down the rails from back to front instead, correct?
Any recommendations on good choice of Amp?
Thanks!
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
If you're going to use rear speakers, you still need all 4 channels from HU. Even if just installing new fronts, running 4 RCA's will give you a separate input for the sub.
Running speaker wire is easy, plus you'll have to pull the door skins to install speakers, so I'd just wait in case you change your mind again
If you already have the 500.1 and 300.2 amps, I'd probably just use them, both should fit on the rear wall. 500.1 to the sub, 300.2 to a good set of 6.5" components in the doors. If you want to keep the rear fill, just leave the stock setup as is, you can play with the fade and amp gains to blend it with the new gear.
If you really want to buy a new amp, I'm very happy with the XR-5S 5-channel I got from Dennis (80w x 4 + 350w x1)
If the 3.5" Polks you installed don't sound at least as good as the oem you removed, try swapping the wires at the speaker, polarity may be backwards. They should have much better definition than stockers.
If you're looking for a set of front components, right now I think one of the best values you can find is the CDT scratch & dent section. I got their CL-E61CF components for the same price as the entry level Polks
Running speaker wire is easy, plus you'll have to pull the door skins to install speakers, so I'd just wait in case you change your mind again
If you already have the 500.1 and 300.2 amps, I'd probably just use them, both should fit on the rear wall. 500.1 to the sub, 300.2 to a good set of 6.5" components in the doors. If you want to keep the rear fill, just leave the stock setup as is, you can play with the fade and amp gains to blend it with the new gear.
If you really want to buy a new amp, I'm very happy with the XR-5S 5-channel I got from Dennis (80w x 4 + 350w x1)
If the 3.5" Polks you installed don't sound at least as good as the oem you removed, try swapping the wires at the speaker, polarity may be backwards. They should have much better definition than stockers.
If you're looking for a set of front components, right now I think one of the best values you can find is the CDT scratch & dent section. I got their CL-E61CF components for the same price as the entry level Polks
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 79
From: West Coast
Thanks Mark, kinda expected some improvement, but not hearing it.
The wires from the bose fit perfectly to the Polk, small clip to small clip, large clip to large clip, any chance they needed to be cut off and reversed ?
The wires from the bose fit perfectly to the Polk, small clip to small clip, large clip to large clip, any chance they needed to be cut off and reversed ?
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
In the other thread you said they almost sounded blown. It it's that bad, try reversing wires.
If you just don't hear an improvement, but it sounds OK (like oem), then don't bother.
If you just don't hear an improvement, but it sounds OK (like oem), then don't bother.
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