Anyone know if anything has changed for 2011? Was gonna order the gm-add24 cable last night but wanted to make sure its still all the same.. thanks..

 

Only difference I'm aware of for 2011 is that the os2c-bose adapter has major static due to problems onstar related. If all you're doing is tapping line-level signal with addgm24 you should be fine.

 

cool.. thanks mark.. starting to order stuff this week and don't wanna mess up and yeah just using it to get line levels...

 

and not to hijack a thread.. but has anyone heard DD's 2 10" box that goes across the back of the car? 2 10" compvr's sounds better than 1 stealth box to me.. and for $200+ less

 

I tried the Kappa Perfects 6.1 and was very disappointed. No midrange and very harsh highs.

I started out with JL Audio TR650-CSi in the doors -- JL's entry level speakers. They were very thin sounding and could not produce any distortion free volume. Lesson learned: buy quality; it's cheaper in the long run.

Because I had a lot of success with Infinity back in the mid 90s I upgraded to the Perfects. Big mistake. Although they can play brutally loud, they need an EQ, or so I'm told, to get any good sound out of them. Doing some online searching, Perfect 6.1's get mixed reviews and the Perfect 5.25's get universal bad reviews. I notice Crutchfield has stopped selling them.

I now have JL Audio C5-650s in the doors, JL Audio C5-525s in the rear, a JL Audio Stealth Box in the hatch, along with the orignal OEM HU powered with 2 Arc Audio amps. And I am very happy with the sound. The system can produce enough clean volume that it is possible to listen to a string quartet over top of road noise and yet not be fatigueing to the hears and play an AC/DC concert that sounds like I'm sitting right in front of Angus Young's amp.

Avoid the Perfects. Getting those door panels back onto the door frame is a pain in the ***. I speak from experience. Save yourself a lot of trouble and do the door speakers right the first time. I didn't use any sound deadening material in the doors. I like a little road noise in a 'vette. Attempting to seal the doors is an exercise in futility, IMO. As long as the front side of the speaker is reasonably isolated form the back side of the speaker, which the speaker adapter plates will do, they will sound fine.

There is differing opinion here, but I would put quality 5.25 speakers in the rear. It is relatively easy and adds little to the initial cost. And IMO helps produce a satisfying "sound stage" especially if the tweeters used in all four locations are identical (JL uses the same tweeter in the whole C5 line), sound is bouncing off all interior surfaces, makes you feel like you are in the center of the music. IMO, I don't think a proper sound stage is possible in an automobile interior. It is impossible, IMO, to sit in a location where one speaker is 3 feet in front and below your left ear and pointed at a right angle away from your sitting position, while the other speaker is 5 feet away and point more-or-less directly at your right ear is ever going to sound like the sweet spot in a home audio system. Car audio can do things home audio can't - namely, produce very tight bass at high volumes. It's hard to get a home audio system to re-produce Metallica's kick drum with the same visceral force that you can get in an automobile environment. But soundstage? Ain't gunna happen. Ergo, install four matching speakers and enjoy the sensation of having you head sticking directly inside the lid of a 9 foot concert grand at a Beethoven recital - as opposed to trying in vain to reproduce the sound of sitting in front-center of the stage.

If you use the OEM H/U you most likely will get alternator whine. I started out with an Alpine head unit. Had no alternator whine. Went back to OEM HU (didn't care about having video in the dash) and got a massive whine. Grounding the negative side of the RCA chords to the back of the HU got 90% of the whine. Putting an inline filter on the HU power supply got rid of another 5% of it. Still working on the last bit of whine.

 

Use a ground loop isolator right at the amp between the RCA cables and the amp and you will get rid of 100% of the noise. At least it worked for me.

 

i am using a stock nav head unit and after adding an arc audio amp and polk mm6501 speakers i had awful noise / whine / squeal in the system. the noise was eliminated by grounding the rca interconnects to the head unit and adding an antenna isolator. i did not need to use a ground loop isolator on the rca interconnects. a more detailed explanation of my saga can be found here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...t-install.html

 

Has anyone had issues with 6.5" speaker depth with the window going down? What about using a crutchfiield baffle?

Also are people mounting the crossovers in the doors, or elsewhere?

 

I had crossovers in doors without issues, but some prefer in dash above passengers feet since they can possibly get wet in the doors. Pull down the panel with the light mounted on it, plenty of room up there.

Any normal 6.5 will fit in door without a problem. If you do get baffles, I think I'd just use the top 1/3 to make sure no water drips on to speaker if you get stuck in a downpour.

 

Thanks Markcz!

 

Tagging this for so good info, I have had trouble after trouble with wines and pops, still working on it!

 

Looking for tips to install front and rear speakers..
I know there is a thread here someplace with instructions but cant find it... Im going to do the install of the new JL speakers I got this weekend...

Thanks all..

 

Rears HERE

Fronts and a lot more HERE