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Will need to extend speaker wires from the door tweeters to the amp/crossover location, in the hatch area right behind the seats. I've never done any soldering, so please tell me what parts I need. After the connection is made, is it ok to wrap it with electrical tape, or something else?
Thanks,
Will need to extend speaker wires from the door tweeters to the amp/crossover location, in the hatch area right behind the seats. I've never done any soldering, so please tell me what parts I need. After the connection is made, is it ok to wrap it with electrical tape, or something else?
Thanks,
You can also use crimp type splices, if you have buy a solder iron and all the other stuff it would be cheaper to get some crimp splices and a crimping tool, its a lot easier also.
You can also use crimp type splices, if you have buy a solder iron and all the other stuff it would be cheaper to get some crimp splices and a crimping tool, its a lot easier also.
The nicest connection would be one that is soldered. For the record, none of my connections are soldered.
An easy and effective connection would be one that is crimped. To join two wire you can use a butt connector. If you are going to crimp wires, then get yourself a ratcheting crimper, which costs $20 - $25 and makes very solid connections.
If you end up soldering, buy the solder with flux inside it. "Tin" the end of each wire you're going to connect (with just the one wire there, heat it with the iron and melt solder all over the ~3/8" stripped wire). Do that to both wires, then all you need to do is hold them together and hit them with the iron for a few seconds. They should magically become one solid wire right before your eyes
Since you remembered to put the heat shrink over one of the wires before joining them, all you need to do next is slide it into place and hit it with a lighter for a few seconds.
Having said that, here's how I do it.... I use butt-splices
However, I twist the wires I'm connecting together like I was going to use a wire nut, then I crimp on a butt-splice over the twisted wires. Haven't had a failure yet, and I splice a lot of wires
This is better crimping tool, just get this and a bag of splice's
Red, Yellow and Blue sizes, you will use the red ones the most.
Strip the ends of both wires about 1/4 of a inch put the end of one wire in one end of the splice and crimp it, then put the other wire in the other end of the splice and crimp it. All done. You can wrap it in black tape but if you are spliceing several wires be sure and stagger the length of the wire's so that all the splices are not at the same point in the wire bundle. Wrap all the splices with black tape and you are good to go.
For the price of a cheap soldering iron, I would opt to solder the wires together and then a piece of shrink wrap tubing over the solder joint.
I can buy a cheap soldering iron for less money than what those fancy ratcheting crimpers cost ... and a solder joint is better than 2 wires cripped together with a butt-splice.
I never recommend that anyone buy cheap tools, including soldering irons.
Cheap irons are almost always too hot for the task, and unless you have excellent skills and can perform the operation quickly, you will burn the site and surrounding wire/insulation creating a brittle connection that is weaker than it's crimped counterpart.
I have some ridiculously expensive mil-spec crimpers and if I didn't make part of my living using them, I would never own them. But I also have a fairly expensive variable-temp, iso-tip soldering iron that still is not the best choice for high power/high amperage connections.
Almost all of the high-capacity speaker connectors I use have clamping contacts as do the portable power distribution systems.
I have soldered literally tens of thousands of audio connections and for high integrity using small wire, it is hard to argue with a long history of success.
But for a novice tackling heavy guage speaker cables, crimp connectors are better, even if you can't afford the professional tool.
An inexpensive crimp tool costs about the same as an inexpensive soldering iron.