I've heard some information about a product that stiffens the door panel with aluminum channels supposedly to provide better acoustics. Anyone know the concept/math behind these products?

 

They are just aluminum U-channels, when applied they make the outer door skin more stable/rigid, for better sound quality from the door speakers and less noise. You can just get them from a hardware store, but RAAM sells them as a kit, with adhesive ready to peel ...

 

any pictures or links?

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...rade-pics.html

 

Still having difficulty visualizing what the channels actually look like. In that thread, it looks like they are covered over by deadening material

 

Looks a lot like this: Aluminum

I have Rick's channels and the deadener. Even before adding the deadener the channels solidified the door skins. However, I wouldn't trust the channels to stay on with only the peel and stick adhesive. I actually fully covered mine with the deadener, so it all has to peel away from the door to come off.

 

Yep aluminum U channel, 1/4" or 1/2" would work. When I put mine on next week I'll scrub the surface clean with D-Alcohol and add the super tape along the whole aluminum strip ... photos will be posted

 

If i were to make and install my own, how many per door would be sufficient to make a difference. I would mount mine with 3M tape and cover over those with Deadener mat like halfmoon.

 

Here are some between the door opening covers.

 

2 per door would work. Any flat aluminum channel with some 3M adhesive would work.

 

I assume these should extend the length of the door correct?

 

I would think that as long as they are at around 20-30", that should be enough to stiffen the door and eliminate vibrations.

 

I'm using 2 per door and they are 24" long x 3/8" wide x 1/2 tall ...

 

I understand the physics of how this is supposed to work, but what does it translate to as far as sound goes?

 

All the door channels will do is help stiffen the door outer panel to lessen vibration noise. A lot more needs to be done to achieve a quieter car.

Read #8 post in this thread. I thought it was a pretty good explanation of how different steps and materials contribute to a quieter care.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...9-dynamat.html

 

I cannot give you the physics behind the door channels, but can tell you that the doors after the RAAM treatment, will not vibrate with the sound turned up. The doors sound like steel doors when shut. There seems to be no frequency that causes any distortion of any kind by the doors at any volume. Rick can really help you with his FULL door kit. I am completely sold!

 

Oh defiantly. I have a huge box of Second skin Damplifier and Luxury Liner pro sitting in the garage. Just waiting for all my wiring to arrive so i can do everything at once.

 

The channels I sell more as a service than for the money as they cost me around $10 to make, I sell them for $19. They add stiffness to the door skin which allows for much less mat to be needed in that area thus less weight added to the car.

Normally I shipped them with a full strip of 1/16" window glazing double sided tape but ran low and could not find a place to buy more until just last week, I have some on order. I shipped a few with just the ends tapped but in reality there is not a big difference since the mat folded up onto the sides is what bonds them to the door for the effectiveness we need, the tape does not add a noticable difference if full length or not.

The tighter the bend in the mat, better it fits to the channels and bonded to the door, that is the key for the best results. Some overlap the open side of the channel, not really needed as it will not add much effect, some, not much. I leave it open to reduce a bit more weight.

Using the channels, applying the mat down the middle between them the full length, wrapped up onto the sides, then above and below them half the length, closest to the speakers, is all the mat needed in that area.

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The Alumalite filler panels shown are for the huge access holes in the doors, they stiffen the door in that area resulting in less resonant issues from the speakers, less effect on the door panels, stiffens the air space a bit for improved response, reduce road noise, only add 11 oz each. $39 a pair.

I also make Alumalite speaker baffles, pre covered in PS Ensolite (best foam there is at the best price cut to fit the speakers being used, just 4.5 oz each but super stiff and the Ensolite is the gasket for the speakers, opening, seal for the sides of the Alumalite (honeycomb) $39 a pair.

If using the 3.5" speaker location for a tweeter install I make Alumalite, foam covered, mounts for them, less than 1 oz each, $19 for the pair.

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The purpose of all this is to properly treat the problematic doors in our cars very effectively yet add very little weight, these are super cars and I approach them as such in all I do.


And, my below 10 lb full fiberglass sub enclosure that has plenty of air space yet takes up the least room possible and fits full size 10" subs, like the Arc 10 or for those not concerned with weight and want an all out world class sub the new Black series from Arc. (weight of enclosure is carpeted, ready to install, sub not included in weight)

Unfortunately the rear of the car is a major issue and we just have to add some weight to it in the form of real automotive deadening, my BXT II RAAMmat being another world class product, just sold at a very very good price point, then use PS Ensolite to seal the deal

The floor and tunnel on these cars are quite stiff and there is not much need for adding sound deadening products, thermal is the major issue there. I recommend using a thermally coated tunnel plate, the one with the added fiberglass/aluminum heat shield is best, to reduce tunnel heat. It has the added benefit of chassis stiffening which is always a good thing, I could feel the difference immediately when I installed mine.

I am not in the general car audio business, I own a busy sound deadening business(I was the first, by years, to offer a lower priced, high grade alternative to the big name brands and still have the best for the money, period) I only got into the Vette specific audio systems after I built my car the way a super car should be done and wanted to help my fellow enthusiasts do the same.

SS deadening products are great, so are mine, just less expensive

Rick