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Why Keep the Bose Amp

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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 05:10 PM
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Default Why Keep the Bose Amp

Hi.

If you have a new HU and amp, can the Bose amp be junked ? I would lose center and rear speakers, but I don't care. I don't care about the Mute signal, or do I.

Where will the chimes play ?

Do all the wires in the current GM harness behind the Bose HU go to the Bose amp, or are there other wires like the class II signal wire that tells the HU when to turn on ? The GMAH24B plugs into the GM harness, but if there is no Bose amp, what will the GMAH24B be doing ?

Fact gathering.

Thanks,

M....
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 10:24 PM
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OEM amp would be garbage, or you can offer it up here if someone needs a cheap replacement part.

The interface adapter plays all chimes out of its own internal speaker.

Adapter does power/ground/class2/onstar with the oem harness.

C6 prints are HERE

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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 01:11 PM
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Hi Mark.

You have been really helpful - and I will reward you by asking more questions .

I have changed plans slightly. I will start with amp and door speakers, and later upgrade the HU.

I had a good look at the fuse panel and Bose amp. Thanks to Kedar, I will be using an Arc Audio amp, and it sure would be nice if I could use the Bose Amp cavity. So bye bye Bose amp.

Now the question. Is there any way I could tap into the Bose amp connector plugs for the low level front lines? Later, I will use proper RCA interconnects from the Pioneer HU to the amp, but for now I hate to have to remove the console cover to gain access to the back of the Bose HU.

I know I can "T" into the wires, but I hate to butcher them if I don't have to. I noticed they are very will taped up, so rather than cut away tape and splice, how about using a plug in connector, or even individual spade connections ?




Thanks,

M...
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 04:34 PM
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It CAN be done, but honestly it would be easier to just take the radio out and put in an AOEM adapter.

If you want to do it at the amp without splicing, click on the schematics link above. Look at the plug pinout for the amp. You'd have to find the other matching plug for the one with line out signals (plug description should be on prints). Most likely the plug you buy would just be the plastic shell, so you'd have to buy the pins to go in the plug. By the time you add up parts and shipping it's probably close or more than the cost of the AOEM.

If you have a store around you like Fry's they MAY have the proper plug with wire leads, but I wouldn't count on it.

Either way you'd still have to get the proper adapter when you replaced the HU (unless you don't need any chimes or onstar).
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