Adding sub to C4 Bose system?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Albuquerque NM
Adding sub to C4 Bose system?
I am working on a tight budget and my Bose system still works fine so I am now considering the possibility of buying a sub and an amp and installing that while leaving the stock Bose speakers in place. First of all, is this even possible? I feel like a good sub and amp will be a worthwhile investment because once I do chose to upgrade the Bose (which I understand as the superior choice) I'll already have my amp and sub. I really don't know anything about car audio but is there a way to split the low frequencies off of the signal going from the Bose deck to the speakers and instead have those lower frequency signals go to an amp then a sub?
Thanks for any input.
Thanks for any input.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,921
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From: Albuquerque NM
Called Crutchfield and the tech I spoke to explained that it is possible to install a sub and amp by splicing the signal from the rear speaker, AFTER it has been amped by the rear speaker, running that to the amp and then to the sub. Is this correct? would I need a filter? I also called Doctor Don who was extremely helpful and explained that it could be done another way by splicing the signal BEFORE the rear speaker AND amp, putting a capacitor in line (negative side towards the Bose system) and running that to the filter and then amp to sub. I did not want to take too much of Doctor Don's time so I didn't pry for a more detailed explanation but now I know it can be done. Could anyone elaborate on either the Crutchfield tech's method or Doctor Don's? I'd really appreciate it.
Last edited by yakmastermax; Mar 16, 2012 at 02:25 PM.
Drifting
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From: Fort Knox
Dude you're working too hard at this.
Go to walmart, and buy a line output converter ($15 tops) and tap into the wires at your speaker for a signal on both speakers to the LOC. Then run RCA cables from the LOC to your amp. DONE.
As far as amps go, the biggest news in the car audio scene is that Audiopipe is selling 1500 watt amps for around $160 that actually put out clamped power. That's a BIG deal, for years all sorts of companies (from junkie ones to old school named ones) were selling amps that didn't do rated and calling them 1500 watt amps when they barely put out 1000 without going into severe distortion. Audiopipe broke the price barrier on amps that do what they say for dirt cheap.
I compete with my stereo in my Jeep and I know that a bunch of my fellow competitors are buying these amps up like crazy (I know of one guy who bought 16 of the AP1500's)
For subs, might want to look into companies like FI Car Audio, Mach 5 Audio, Sundown, Digital Designs, DC Audio.
Go to walmart, and buy a line output converter ($15 tops) and tap into the wires at your speaker for a signal on both speakers to the LOC. Then run RCA cables from the LOC to your amp. DONE.
As far as amps go, the biggest news in the car audio scene is that Audiopipe is selling 1500 watt amps for around $160 that actually put out clamped power. That's a BIG deal, for years all sorts of companies (from junkie ones to old school named ones) were selling amps that didn't do rated and calling them 1500 watt amps when they barely put out 1000 without going into severe distortion. Audiopipe broke the price barrier on amps that do what they say for dirt cheap.
I compete with my stereo in my Jeep and I know that a bunch of my fellow competitors are buying these amps up like crazy (I know of one guy who bought 16 of the AP1500's)
For subs, might want to look into companies like FI Car Audio, Mach 5 Audio, Sundown, Digital Designs, DC Audio.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Albuquerque NM
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142LOC8...0.html?tp=2001
something like this? i thought these were for head units which put out amped signals? so simply splice the converter onto the wires going to the bose amps and then run the RCAs from the converter to the power mono amp then sub?
something like this? i thought these were for head units which put out amped signals? so simply splice the converter onto the wires going to the bose amps and then run the RCAs from the converter to the power mono amp then sub?
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
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From: North Augusta, SC
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142LOC8...0.html?tp=2001
something like this? i thought these were for head units which put out amped signals? so simply splice the converter onto the wires going to the bose amps and then run the RCAs from the converter to the power mono amp then sub?
something like this? i thought these were for head units which put out amped signals? so simply splice the converter onto the wires going to the bose amps and then run the RCAs from the converter to the power mono amp then sub?
Either way, run RCA's to new amp. No capacitors or filters needed, most amps have a low pass filter (LPF) built in, so make sure you buy one that has that.
Also pay attention to sub voice coil ohm and RMS power ratings, and what minimum ohm load the amp can handle. Best bet is a single coil 4 ohm sub, then just match RMS ratings of sub and amp as close as you can (within 20% in either direction is close enough).
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Albuquerque NM
If you get the LOC it attaches at the speaker spades, then the LOC converts the speaker level down to the low voltage line-level. If you splice before the bose amp it's already at the proper line-level.
Either way, run RCA's to new amp. No capacitors or filters needed, most amps have a low pass filter (LPF) built in, so make sure you buy one that has that.
Also pay attention to sub voice coil ohm and RMS power ratings, and what minimum ohm load the amp can handle. Best bet is a single coil 4 ohm sub, then just match RMS ratings of sub and amp as close as you can (within 20% in either direction is close enough).
Either way, run RCA's to new amp. No capacitors or filters needed, most amps have a low pass filter (LPF) built in, so make sure you buy one that has that.
Also pay attention to sub voice coil ohm and RMS power ratings, and what minimum ohm load the amp can handle. Best bet is a single coil 4 ohm sub, then just match RMS ratings of sub and amp as close as you can (within 20% in either direction is close enough).
Correct me if i am wrong but are you saying that if i splice before the bose amp, i don't need the LOC, just a wire with a male RCA on one side?
also i found this in another thread:
Speaker level inputs are available on some amplifiers for the purpose of sampling the output signal going to your stock speakers, and amplifing the signal to whatever speaker you have hooked up to your amp. This forgoes the need to buy an inline RCA converter from your bose head unit, and is an easy, simple way to get the signal you need to your amp without having to install a line level converter off of your head unit. Thats it. Nice little short cut....but there is a drawback, you have induced noise....but in all reality, you'll never notice it...Only us hard core audiophiles are picky about that kind of issue.
You would need to tap into both speakers for a signal if you want to drive two seperate channels on the amplifier, if it is obviously a 2 channel amp, but if you're just interested in getting a monoblock, you'll only need to tap one speaker. Low fequencies are omni-directional, and the naturally large waveform eminated from the subwoofer, is hard to decern if its stereo seperated or not....so again, if you're an audio nut, you might be picky and notice the difference. No one else will.
snoopdan
You would need to tap into both speakers for a signal if you want to drive two seperate channels on the amplifier, if it is obviously a 2 channel amp, but if you're just interested in getting a monoblock, you'll only need to tap one speaker. Low fequencies are omni-directional, and the naturally large waveform eminated from the subwoofer, is hard to decern if its stereo seperated or not....so again, if you're an audio nut, you might be picky and notice the difference. No one else will.
snoopdan
Thanks a lot guys for the information, I've found a couple of other threads on the subject but i just want to make sure before dropping coin.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
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From: North Augusta, SC
That would work. It's rated for as low as 2 ohm load, so to get the most out of it (500w) you can get a 2 ohm single coil sub and just hook up the +/- OR get a dual coil sub with 4 ohms per coil and wire it in parallel.
If you had a single coil 4 ohm sub it would only produce 300w of power, which is still plenty of power with the rest of the system being stock.
Confused yet
If you had a single coil 4 ohm sub it would only produce 300w of power, which is still plenty of power with the rest of the system being stock.
Confused yet
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,921
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From: Albuquerque NM
makes sense, two 4 ohm coils in parallel = a single 2 ohm coil, adding resistances in parallel.
could i also go with two, 2 ohm single coil subs wired in series? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206C102...02.html?tp=111
same power as the single 4 ohm?
another question: would a single sub with dual 2 ohm coils rated at 300 watts RMS be paired well with an amp rated 300 watts RMS at 4 ohm?
could i also go with two, 2 ohm single coil subs wired in series? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206C102...02.html?tp=111
same power as the single 4 ohm?
another question: would a single sub with dual 2 ohm coils rated at 300 watts RMS be paired well with an amp rated 300 watts RMS at 4 ohm?
Last edited by yakmastermax; Mar 16, 2012 at 08:33 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
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From: North Augusta, SC
2 @ 2ohm each in series would present 4ohm load for 300w, or 150w per sub
If you got 2 @ 4ohm each in parallel that would be 2ohms at amp for 500w, or 250w per sub
either way it works
If you got 2 @ 4ohm each in parallel that would be 2ohms at amp for 500w, or 250w per sub
either way it works
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,921
Likes: 439
From: Albuquerque NM
Sorry I've got more questions. I'm having a hard time searching the forums because the search function won't recognize "C4" as a filter. Anyway, I'm trying to get a handle on exactly how I'm going to install the sub in the passenger storage compartment. If anyone has any pictures or links to threads that would be awesome; I found one but the pictures had expired.
