Okay. this is going to be long...

When I installed the system in my 1990 ZR-1 it was the following:

Head unit: Nakamichi CD400

Front Stage: CDT TW24, CL4 and EF6 all on a CDT 3 way Crossover

Woofers: 2x Elemental Designs EU700 Dual 2 ohm

Amp: Arc Audio KS 300.4
this was set up for one channel for each EU700 and one channel for the Front L & R

I found that 90 watts was not really enough power.

First change..


Added KS 300.4 #2 bridged both amps to 2 channels each.. fronts on one amp .. EU 700s on the other..

So more recently a 4" was cutting out.. all the wiring is good.. so I figured it was the Crossover.. I swapped in a pair of 2 way crossovers and switched one amp back to 4 channel mode.

the 4 and tweet are on one pair and the 6.5 midbass are on the other pair of channels. I have not driven in it yet this way, but it does sound decent. I think the Crossovers ( Satnet 440) are not the best and want something different/ better. I am using FMods for HP on the Midbass and the Amp Xovers for the rest.

Last thought was one channel or each speaker, but that cuts the EU 700 back down to 90w and I have to think that 90w to the tweeters will be a bit much...

I have a Coustic XM6 that I can use as well and plan to install it. I was debating on selling the KS amps for a 5 channel Class D, but the more I think about it I will still need to keep it in the cargo area.

looking at the above pictures, any other thoughts of amps layout to make the space a bit more useful again? I figured mounting the amps to the back wall, but what is the best way to glue or adhere wood to the fiberglass/smc wall in the back?


Crossover will be hidden in the driver side storage bin and the pass bin I want to keep for storage

 

I would rough up the fiberglass with some sandpaper, then use Liquid Nails or similar to glue the wood down.

Thrash came up with a cool way to mount his equipment using epoxy and elevator bolts in this thread.

With the multiple drivers you're running, you might consider going with an active crossover vs. passives. That way, you will have better control over the slopes, crossover points, etc...

If you were to step up to something like a JBL MS-8, you could use it as the crossover for the system, have 31 bands of EQ per side, time alignment for each driver, power your tweeters from it's internal amplifier, etc... It's a great unit.



Probably the best part of that unit is, the product manager from Harmon International (JBL's parent company) is an audio guy and is active on one of the audio forums. He helps people with their system setups, design, etc... I can't say that I've ever seen that type of interaction between a company and the product users... and it's one of the reasons I went out and bought an MS-8 for my C6.

One more thing: I had a set of crossovers that caused one of the drivers to start cutting out like yours... turns out, one of the inductors had come loose from the circuit board, breaking the wire where it connected to to the circuit. I was able to unsolder the inductor from the crossover and repair it, and used a better adhesive to keep it in place. You might take a look to see if something similar happened to yours.

Hope this helps.

Mark

 

So you think the 90w for a tweeter is not too much if active? I am thinking full active but then my woofers also only get 90 watts.

As for the link, thanks, but I found the comment about wood in a vette funny considering there is wood in the floorboards..

I will check out the MS-8 and the Passives for bad solder joints etc.

 

I'm sorry, I must not have been clear; the MS-8 has it's own internal amplifier. You could run the tweeters off it, then run the rest of your drivers off your amps. The MS-8 has eight independent channels, and they can feed RCA outputs, speaker level outputs, etc...

 

No I just missed reading the internal amp part. Thanks

 

Check out the EQs and Crossovers at AudioControl, they are sweet. I have their DQXS and it controls so many parameters it's just silly. Here it is mounted with my elevator bolt idea. My full install post shows it step by step, and running 14 separate speakers <CLICK HERE> ...

 

Thanks Thrash..
I have a decent Coustis XM6 3 way crossover and between that and my 32 amps I could set up the 4 way.. I think the MS-8 is more then I am looking to spend. if I could find a very small foot print amp ( 30w per channel) for my tweeters then I could do a full active system and not worry about passives any more..

 

you think this could work well for a tweeter amp?
2 x 20 w


SPecs:
Output Power @ 14.4 Volts DC: 20 Watts x 20 Watts
(Peak Power: 150 Watts x 150 Watts)
THD + Noise: Less than 0.1%
S/N: Greater than 90 dB
Channel Separation: Greater than 55 dB
Frequency Response: 20 Hz to 20 kHz
Size: 1.5" x 3.00" x 4.00"
Both High Level (Speaker) and Low Level (Pre-Amp) Inputs
Green LED Power-On Indicator
Gold Plated RCA Input Connectors + 5 Amp Fuse and Holder
Variable Input Level Control (External Pot Adjustment): Sensitivity
Built-in Active Electronic Filter: High Pass, Flat, Low Pass
Modular plugs for power, speaker output, and speaker level inputs
All Metal Aluminum Construction + Mounting Hardware & Wiring Instructions
This full-featured amplifier can be used for tweeters (High-Pass), mids (Flat), or low frequency (Low Pass).

 

jeff i have an amp you can have. i think it does 35 rms or so older alpine but works great still

 

What is the footprint for it. I am tight on space