Looking for a spot to assess retained accessory power on my 2010 C6 coupe with nav. Prefer not to dig to deep if possible.

Thanks

 

The only place I'm aware of with an exposed wire that stays on with RAP is the amp trigger wire (if you're keeping the oem nav), but that has quirks also. It is the white wire at pin B3 of the big radio plug.

The oem amp trigger turns on as soon as you open a door, and stays on well after opening a door to get out (true RAP turns off as soon as you open the door). You can get around it turning on before car is started if you add a relay and a few diodes like this, but it will still stay on for a few minutes after you get out.

FYI, the stock amp tigger is on for so long because the chimes are generated by the radio, then played through the oem amp and left front speaker. The amp has to be powered whenever the car MAY need to play a chime. Other items that work on RAP (like windows) are connected to the car's serial data line and constant power, so they generate their own RAP signal but don't have any external wiring that can be tapped.

All that being said.... If you REALLY want a true RAP power signal and are willing to spend a few bucks, you can buy an interface adapter and just use it for the power trigger. I believe the C2R-GM24 is the cheapest one that will work in C6.

 

Thanks, I did a search but didn't find the location of the big plug, on back of HU? I may just tap into seat heater line, I understand it stops with ignition switch but that will work second best. This is for a small 80 watt power inverter to power a Belkin Bluetooth music receiver to feed Pandora into HU. Don't want any wires tied to phone.

 

I was thinking of the big plug behind the radio, but it's also on the amp in the footwell. The white wire at pin B11 of the 24 pin plug on the amp is the same.

If you tap a wire on/near the footwell fuses you can throw all of the pieces on top of the flat panel above the passengers feet (the one with the light mounted on it), plenty of room up there.

 

Sweet, working in foot well is much easier and stashing inverter and bluetooth receiver in same location Thanks.

 

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Now, much latter, I'm wanting to move off heater fuse and onto B11 white but did you mean a 16 pin plug ? No 24 pin plugs on mine.

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Using an inverter is asking for trouble. You need to get a cd adapter

 

2007 C6 radio prints are HERE, look at the plug pinouts for the amp.

If you have Bose, plug C2 is 24 pin and amp trigger is at pin B11, but color of plug depends on model of car.

In non-bose you need to use pin A3, but it's still shown as a 24 pin plug.

I have the book for my 2012, it has different plugs shown on the amp, but I didn't think they started until 2011

2012 non-bose has amp trigger at A3 of Brown 24 pin plug X2, white wire.

2012 Bose has amp trigger at pin 8 of Black 16 pin plug X3, white wire (only white wire on that plug).

 

Elaborate please. The CD adapters I googled were for cassette interface, I've no cassette player. looking for RAP tap.

 

Sorry ment dc adapter link me to the make and model of device

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/80-watt...ter-66944.html

to power

http://www.belkin.com/us/p/P-F8Z492

 

I've had it working these last 6 months off the seat heater fuse but would like it find 12 volt power tap that will stay on after ing. off but will time out after a short time, RAP.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-2-5mm-DC-Plug-MP3-MP4-to-PC-USB-Power-Speaker-Cable-Cord-/370810662405?pt=US_MP3_Player_Cables_Adapters&hash=item565609ae05 with a cheap USB cig adapter would work good. Better then stepping up and then back down like now.

How is sq with the Bluetooth?

 

Was just searching on Amazon and found this:

Looks like it is a BT receiver that plugs into a USB port to get power and has a line out port. Might have to try this as it could be a perfect solution for running Pandora from a phone.

Here's the link on where to get it:
http://www.neewer.com/usb-bluetooth-...l#.UbPDAflZd8E