Haa anyone dynomated the cargo area of the c6 to try and lower the road noise and if so do u have any pics of the installation. Thanks in advance.

 

Did you look at the FAQ's at the top of the audio section? Thrash goes through sound deadening his entire C6 I think. Lots of pics, too... you might want to check it out.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...p-by-step.html

 

I did 3 layers of different sound deadening material throughout the car (including the doors) and it made a big improvement in the outside noise. The car feels more solid now as well.

 

If you do not do the whole car, the effects would be much less.

 

I did but isnt that a convertible. I have a coupe but thanksmfor the reply i appreciate it.

 

Thanks ncvette

 

I'll post up a few photos of what I did later tonight.

 

Dynamat and sound insulation are different things. If you want to block outside noise, you need a noise barrier. Material which stops airbound vibration. If you want to stop panel noise (panels vibrating, creating noise) you need dampening material like Dynamat.

For the coupes, you have a combination of:

• Noise from the outside coming into the car through the thin body panels
• Noise created when the "plastic" tub which forms the floor of the rear hatch vibrates in response to outside factors (i.e. exhaust output)

Both of these are amplified by the shape of the rear hatch focusing sound to the front of the cabin.

Dynamat will take care of both of the above, but it's really most effective at dampening panel vibrations. For a lot less money, you can get sound barrier materials like ensolite.

My recommendation is to cover 40-50% of the rear hatch area with Dyanamat Xtreme (or similar material from RaamMat, Damplifier, or Second Skin). This will keep the rear tub from creating any sound on it's own. Think of taking a piece of sheet metal which rings and makes noise when you shake it, and then coating a big portion of it with a thick rubber - the sound goes away. You don't need to cover it all, just enough to change the properties of the metal panel. Multiple layers of this material is really a waste after a certain point. Once the panel is deadened, more material won't make it any more "dead".

Then layer 1-2 layers of a sound barrier like ensolite all through the rear area... cover everything completely with this material. This will block any sound that tries to get through the body panels on the side or tub. The coverage has got to be 100% - think of a room with a bunch of open windows. If you cover up most of the windows, you 'll still get a lot of sound through the ones you didn't cover. More layers of the sound barrier are helpful - think of thicker curtains over the open windows.

Make sure you do the rear tub, wheel wells, and the panels behind the seats.

You can use a vibration dampener as your sound barrier also, but Dynamat's not any more effective than a thicker ensolite, and it's much more expensive, and heavier. If you want really effective, you can do 100% coverage with your dampening material (which then acts as a first stage sound barrier) and then layers of deadener (which are also decoupled from the surface by the deadening material)

One note - you can make the rear really quiet, but you'll quickly reach the point of diminishing returns - the front doors will let noise in also, so as you quiet the back, the doors will then define the noise floor.

Overkill:

 

Approx 10 squares of BXT and 5 yards of Ensolite from HERE will do quite nice in a vette.

 

Here are just a few photos of what I did.

I did some dampener (similar to Dynomat), some thin lightweight insulation, some open cell foam, and some closed cell foam. Unfortunately, I didn't take photos of open cell (peel and stick) foam that I placed over most of the car.

You have to be careful of the thickness that you add to some areas, such as the doors and the center console, and around where the seat frame bolts down..