Hi,

I'm installing a new system with all new speakers, amps and a subwoofer. I've been doing many searches but still need some advice.

1. I found that I can run a 4ga wire from the hole behind the battery or bring it in from the dead pedal. I need to bring the cable with rca cables and speaker wires to the rear cargo area. What is the best place to hide all those wires?

2. I have these two modules: gmos04 / aswc-1 Do I need any other modules?

3. Can I get rid of my center speaker all together or do I need it for chimes, etc.?

4. What size RCA cables do I need to make a run from the HU to the back cubbies?

5. What wire do I use for remote turn on and dimming?

 

See above for my answers.

 

Thanks. I appreciate the time for your answers. The module I have says it retains chimes so I'm hoping they will play through my new system and that I can get rid of my center speaker. I wanted to mount my sat antenna in this spot. Not sure if the grill will hinder reception. You said that you brought the power cable in through the passengers side. Did you run the wire along the center console tunnel? Was it difficult to fish the wire through the grommet that is behind the battery. Any tips?

 

I ran my chimes in center speaker, I think the more I think maybe not will check tomorrow. I Drilled a hole in the fire wall and purchased a grommet for hole it was was easy. Ran the wire down to passenger side under the carpet up the wall then down the side behind the rear speakers. I had some of the mounting connectors break off the black side panels but easily fixed glued them back on a heat gun really speeds that up but not a must.
I ran my coax down the center consoles also not to hard.
I mounted both the GPS and Sat antenna on the AC DUCT for the center vents. They fit side by side stick to the duct work. The dash has not been a interference it is a recommended spot.
What type of equipment do you have.

 

Hi,

Hi,

I have the MRX series amps from Alpine. There are similar to the PDX Series but just came out so they use the same technology but with better cooling. I have a 4 channel doing 110 w at 4ohms and a 350 w mono amp for the sub. I went with 6 x 9 JBL GTO speakers and JBL 5.25 speaker for the rear and JBL 3.5" for the doors. My plan is to amp the rear and 6 x 9 speakers and let the HU power the 3.5" speakers. Everything is 2 ohm so they should play nice and loud with minimal distortion since I won't have to push my amps. I went with an 8" Polk sub and used one of the storage holes to make a sub box. I lined it with Dynamat and braced it so the box wouldn't vibrate. My HU is an DNX 890HD and I also plan on installing a bass ****. It should sound great. Do you remember what size RCA cables you used? I'm thinking 15 or 20'.

 

What year is your car?

Do you have onstar and plan on keeping it functional?

 

I don't use Onstar but I would keep it functional. I was told to buy a PAC OS-2C and a PAC SWI-RC. I wanted to buy some cheap 20.00 backup cameras but I've been told that I need to buy the Kenwood cameras or it will be very difficult to configure. I have a DNX890hd and backup cameras are new to me. I wanted to do a front view and backup view.

 

OS2C and SWIRC will work.

ANY backup cameras will do fine, there's nothing that needs to be 'configured' Power them from a switched power source, plug in RCA video feed, reverse gear makes backup appear, push the right button on HU and either/or appears when driving.

Dimmer wire is gray/black on TC/AH button.

SWI wires are A6 & A7 on the big plug.

Connect HU amp remote to B3 of the big plug in addition to your amp. OS2C has switched power to control HU on/off.

Chimes should come out of the interface adapter, ditch the center speaker unless you wire onstar sound to it.

THIS THREAD has lots of good info.

C6 prints are HERE

 

My car is an 08 coupe. Thanks for all the great info.
I have an installer helping me but I'm not sure he has ever done a Vette. I've been out of the loop for a while with this stuff but have a good understanding. With the modules I have will I need to tap into any stock wires or is it just matching wires. I guess for the backup camera I will want to tap into the backup lights and am not sure how to power the front camera? Is there a way to reverse the image on the front view or is it not that big of a deal? Also, is there an advantage over the PAC modules vs the GMOE-04. Going to read link u sent me now.

 

For camera power I'd use a standard automotive relay, use switched power wire out of OS2C to pull in rely, use B+ wire out of OS2C into relay to power cameras when relay is energized. Ground relay coil to OS2C ground. That's how I'd do it, there are MANY ways, just make sure cameras have a power source other than the reverse wire.

Only spliced oem wires are the reverse wire in the footwell (in link), and dimmer wire on console. SWI wires can be spliced on oem wires at C1, but easiest way is to move some unused wires on interface adapter to pins A6&7 (installer should be able to handle that). I'd connect same +12 from relay output to A6 for the SWI input power and also for the power to the module itself.

If your voltage changes much between acc mode and car running you may want to program SWI with car running to avoid any issues later.

Don't let installer tell you dimmer wire is in harness, orange wires on OS2C are useless. Dash removal help HERE if he needs it.

Not sure about reversing image, maybe HU can do it.

 

All great info. I guess you must do this professionally. I talked to my installer tonight and he sounds like he knows what he is doing but I don't think he has done many Vettes.

From my research it seems the Metra GMOS-04 gives chimes and Onstar but you loose button sounds. The PCA OS2C seems to have its own chime that makes the button noises. Is this correct? Is Metra more stable than PAC? The HU unit has a dimmer function buried under the tools option but not sure how well it works. You wrote: Don't let installer tell you dimmer wire is in harness, orange wires on OS2C are useless. Not sure what you mean. I know the HU has a wire that is for dimming and I think it needs to be hooked up to the wire that controls the stock dimmer switch on the dash. Your saying that this wire is not in the PAC module?

 

Not professionally, just a hobby

Correct, the HU dimmer wire gets spliced into the gray/black wire on the TC/AH button, not to the interface adapter. The wire isn't in the big radio plug, you have to splice it with any interface adapter.

The PAC is a much better adapter, I'd pick it over the GMOS any day.

 

Thanks. I have a pic of the door I did last night. It came out great. Running the wires in this car is very simple. This forum also has saved me lots of guess work.

I was surprised that there wasn't 3.5" speaker in the door. Not a big fan of such a small speaker anyway so no big loss. Maybe I'll use it in the dash although I was thinking of using that area for my GPS & XM antenna. Not sure if the grill will be too much of an obstruction. Any experience with this?

I also pulled the rug out of the cargo area and behind the seats. I did a good job deadening the back area and controlling the heat on the tunnel. I used the Frost King product and fatigue mats from LOWES. It made a huge difference and that is with some of the carpet still out of the car.

Glad to hear the PAC module is the way to go. I will post more pics when I get a chance.

 

GPS antenna is fine on top of vents. I've been putting XM just under the grill for center dash speaker, it will sit on the frame fine with some double-sticky tape. Sat radio antennas don't do so hot on the vents with the center speaker directly above them

Not sure what you mean by "I was surprised that there wasn't 3.5" speaker in the door". In C6 the 3.5 are mounted on the skin part that you pull off to get at the subs.

I'll be eating lunch in a few minutes, then heading out to the garage for some modding of my own today

 

I did the door speaker in the dark with a drop light and didn't notice the small speaker attached to the door skin. Yikes! Anyway - I knew I would have to pull the darn door more than once. Here is what I have so far.
By the way my plan was to pull the center speaker and put the GPS and the XM antenna under it for a steath install. Are u saying it won't work well.


GPS antenna is fine on top of vents. I've been putting XM just under the grill for center dash speaker, it will sit on the frame fine with some double-sticky tape. Sat radio antennas don't do so hot on the vents with the center speaker directly above them

Not sure what you mean by "I was surprised that there wasn't 3.5" speaker in the door". In C6 the 3.5 are mounted on the skin part that you pull off to get at the subs.

I'll be eating lunch in a few minutes, then heading out to the garage for some modding of my own today [/QUOTE]

 

[/QUOTE]

 

GPS does fine on vent. Sat radio works but will cut out a lot with speaker there, speaker removed helps, but directly under grill is even better.

There's a small ledge directly in front of the lighting sensor where you can use double-sticky tape to keep it in place. It fits under the grill just fine. To fish antenna up there, fold wire in half about 2' from atenna, then shove fold though opening above vents to grill opening, grab wire and pull on end with antenna attached.

 

Thanks for all your help. There is no substitute for a picture. This forum has saved me hours. Today was a productive day - between opening the pool, cutting the lawn and power washing the decks around the house: I managed to pull the passenger seat, install sound/heat shielding, pulled the battery (clean it) and drilled the firewall, ran the 4ga wire to the back, and installed the other door speakers. Oh yeah - cleaned the in cabin filter too.

I ran into a thread on using rope to get the top door brackets seated properly. I checked today and realized that my driver's door wasn't seated on the top. Even after a few knee drops :{ The rope trick had me installing the door panel in about 5 minutes. I'm pretty much an expert now. I did do one stupid thing. I installed the 3.5" speaker on one door using the factory wires. Then I realized that those wires go to a Bose amp so I got to pull the door about 4 times in all. The first time I didn't even notice the 3.5" speaker on the door panel. It was dark if that helps me save some face. What were you working on last night?

 

I was wondering how hard or easy it would be to install the Kenwood HU I have. Is it basically plug and play? I'm using the PAC modules.

 

NOW you're wondering about the HU What were you thinking of for the first 18 posts?

If not changing the HU you don't need the GMOS or PAC, you need THIS