I'm thinking of redoing my carpet soon in the '87 and thought it may be in my best interest to pre-wire for when I decide the day for a decent system comes. At the same time I'd like to layer the interior completely with some brown bread material. I'll have the carpet, jute, and seats completely out for this.

What'cha think? Any tips/ideas for what gauge and how many of each sort of wire to run?

I figure in the end I'll have 2 amps in the hatch area, 2 subs in the hatch, 2 speakers in the doors, 2 in the dash, 2 in the hatch. I haven't decided if a crossover would be in there or not. The head unit (Pioneer DEH-P77DH) has some imaging and crossover features in itself. I want to yank all original speaker wiring.

Help me out here...

Head Unit to Amp: + and -
Head Unit to Amp: Power On/Off Signal
Head Unit to Amp2: Sub Channel
Engine Compartment to Amp1: Power
Engine Compartment to Amp2: Power

Amp1 to Doors: + and -
Amp1 to Dash: + and -
Amp1 to Hatch: + and -
Amp2 to Sub: + and -

What else.... I know I can't possibly have it all there. :)

 

Good idea to plan ahead like that. Since you are going with two amps and assuming you won’t be running more than 2000 watts, I would recommend you run 4-gauge power wire from the battery to the rear of the car to a fused distribution block. From the block you run the separate power wires to each amp, (most likely will be 8-guage from the block to the amps, depends on the amps).

Run your remote turn on wire from HU to the rear on the same side of the car as the power wire, (run them down the driver side of car). Run a single remote turn on wire to the rear and connect it to a relay. Even though the HU should have enough voltage to turn on two amps, you already said you didn’t know if you would have a crossover or not, the relay will allow you to add more components to the system without having to worry about the HU lacking voltage to turn them on. The relay will also act as a fuse. DEI or Bosh relays will do just fine. Power to your relay will come off the fused distribution block. Ground for relay will go to ground distro block.

Run your speaker wire and RCA signal cables down the passenger side of car to avoid risk of introducing noise. Now, if you have an electronic crossover you will only need to run one set of RCA’s to the rear then branch off the crossover to your amps, However, if you don’t run a crossover, then you will need to run RCA’s for front, rear and subs to the rear. If you don’t have that many low line outputs on the back of your HU then you will need to use Y splitters.

Only amp the front dash and door speakers, if you run rear speakers then let them run off the HU. You don’t want to mess up your front stage with too much rear fill.

Don’t forget to fuse your power wire within 18” of the battery. Use an ANL fuse for this, they are much more reliable than AGU fuses are. Never use a circuit breaker under the hood; I added that because some may suggest it...don’t do it.

To ground your components, run the ground from both amps and any other components you have (like crossover and relay) to a ground distribution block (non-fused) then from there to the chassis. The bolt that bolts the seats to the floor pan is a good solid 12v ground and will allow a short ground run for you too. Make sure the main ground wire is at least the same gauge size or larger than your power wire is. (In your case will most likely be 4-guage).

If you plan to run more than 2000 watts then use 2-guage or larger for the power and ground. Of course running that much power you will need to upgrade the whole electrical/charging system, but that’s another dissertation length post for another time. :D

Considering you have done a lot of performance mods to your Vette I’m sure you have already upgraded the electrical system wires. If you haven’t, you will need to. Very simple procedure.

Don’t worry about removing the Blose wiring, just run your new speaker wire and use it, you may want to replace the Blose system some day and the wiring will still be there for you. The HU will connect to the stock harness with an aftermarket harness you can get at any car audio shop. You will not have to cut any stock wires.

For such fat power wire you will need to drill a hole in your firewall. Drill just above and too the right of the accelerator pedal or just above and to the right of the clutch pedal. You will come out at an empty spot in the engine compartment just below and to the left of the brake booster. From there it’s an easy run to the battery. :)

Ok, I think this novel is finished, if I left anything out I’m sure 92TrippleBlack or Kale will fill in the blanks for you. :lol: :cheers: :yesnod:

Good luck on your noble endeavor! :seeya :cheers:

 

This is a great post!!! :flag

I may wire my stereo in myself. I was, in the Navy, in the advanced electronics field and also while in the Army was in the Prime Power occupation. I know a bit about the electrical and electronics.

I have a few questions as I do not really want to mess up or take the major road when an easier path would have sufficed.

I am installing a Pioneer DEH-P86DHR Head Unit, with CDT Speakers for the doors and CDT speakers for the rear. I will also have a 12" sub. I have two Amps and can get them wired with your essay. I am wondering where I hook in to power on/ignition. I have a Valentine 1 detector that I hard wired in to the wire beneath the floorboard on the passenger side. This past weekend I already had the door panels off and made speaker panels from 1/2" MDF for the CDT door speakers.

Can I go to that wire as well?

The Head Unit has extra wires for security connections and auto door locks, should I even attempt to hook these up? Is it worth the effort and how would this be done?

Should I install sound deadener on the entire floor assy front to rear on the car? Is it worth it?

As for the relay, what amperage should it be? I work in a marine propulsion and generator production company and could figure out something but it is helpful to hear it from a person that is quite knowledgeable as you seem.

When running the wires down each side of the car do I run them under the carpet close to the seats or up higher towards the door jam and tape them down?

Any other tips would be greatly appreciated. If I can save a few hundred bucks doing it myself and knowing that I am the only one touching the car then I would prefer it that way. I can either trust or distrust myself and I can live with that but when it comes to another person, that doesn't even have a vette, touches my baby then I am quite hesitant.

Many thanks if you can answer these for me and offer advice. :p:


[Modified by MY2K2C5, 9:21 AM 7/15/2002]

 

Be sure not to get the cheap thin stuff :cheers: :cheers:

 

I went up to our engineering department and spoke with our wiring diagram designer/electrical engineer and we have the circuit down we think for the relay but one question remained.

When running the wire from the relay does it go to each amp? He is not a stereo person but I thought and tried to explain to him that it probably goes to a connection on the amp for switched power i.e. the ignition key or the HU power on rheostat.

Is this correct?

Thanks,

 

You have a C5 MY2K2C5 so your battery is on the opposite side of the car from a C4, so just swap the sides of the car I said run power and signal wire down. I'm sure you figured that out though. :lol:

The aftermarket wiring harnesses you will need for the C5 will have all the wires to tap into without you needing to cut into the stock harnesses (hopefully). Go to a car audio shop for your C5 harnesses, you need more than one for the C5 and will require someone who knows the new GM setup to tell you what all you need.
Here is a website that has the basic GM wire color codes if you want to check them out.
http://www.corvetteradios.com./Page3.html

Danke Schon, As for the relay, just get an automotive DEI or Bosh relay 12v 40/30A. Of course that will be rated well above what you will ever need and they are only a couple of bucks. In fact, some car audio installers will probably just give you one they have laying around from an alarm they installed or something. You will only need one for your application.

Yes, run the wires under the carpet between the seats and the doorsill, it will get less traffic stepping on it there. I usually put all my wires and cables in loom conduit and run the conduit alone the sides between the seat and sill like stated before. The conduit will protect the wires even more. I started doing that after I wound up with some dead RCA cables that got rubbed a little too much. Of course, always use loom conduit on all wires run under the hood too. :yesnod:

Yes, it is worth it. I put 70 sq. ft. of Brown-Bread in my Vette, I paid about $100 for it on ebay. I put 4 layers on the door frame and 4 layers on the door panel. I also put 4 to 5 layers in the hatch area, under the seats and up the firewall. I also have 1/4" foam padding between the door panel and the door frame. I will be putting Raammat in the C5.

Here are a few pics:




It’s a long tedious job to do it right but well worth it in the end. :yesnod:

Yes, the remote turn on comes from your HU remote out (blue wire) to the rem slot on the amp(s). Thats how the amps turn on. It only requiers .3 or .4 volts to cut an amp on but the relay will allow for future upgrades and is safer than just splicing two remote wires from the HU for each amp.
Check out this website, go to the relay section, it will explain how to hook up a relay better than I can on this forum.
http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/
lots of good info there. :yesnod:

It’s good to do the work yourself, it’s better in the long run, you learn car audio, you learn your car better and no schmuch touches your baby. ;)

Sure,
* Always disconnect all power from battery before doing any electrical work on the car.
* Always double check grounds
* Measure twice, cut once.
* Make sure all connections and splices are firm and tight before putting power to them.
* Make sure your amps get plenty of ventilation.
* Never pay full price for late pizza.
* Never sit in the front row at a Gallagher show
* Never slam you car into reverse while going 70 mph down the interstate
* And never trust a woman with a tattoo of a dagger anywhere on her body. :nono:

Good luck! :seeya

 

WoW :eek:

Ok... I went out into our production shop and setup my relay assy. That was a piece of cake. Now to find a place to mount it.

I didn' t know that I needed wire harnesses from good guys, or other..etc.. since I was installing other speakers and getting rid of the bose speakers. Hmmmm.... Ok.. will check into that.

>I ordered from Sound domain a Stinger inline fuse 4 AWG for the pre 18" from battery connection, with ANL fuse
>Stinger fused distribution block 4 AWG in and 4-8 AWG out.
>Stinger unfused distribution block 4 AWG in and 4-8 AWG out.
>25' of Stinger 4 AWG clear
>25' of Stinger 4 AWG purple

Since they are local to me I got robbed with tax but I get it the next day... it's all good.

So I was planning on mounting the amps in the middle compartment and possibly putting in a 12v fan if necessary.. ideas?

I can get my hands on tons of loom and different sizes so I am good there. Also tons of 8 AWG wire thru 22 AWG wire if needed.

I also have clips that take the wire in and clamp it to other wire with no cutting required. Please advise on the harness again though. I was under the impression that I could just rewire since I was going with aftermarket HU and speakers. Also is there a spot for me to grab the switched power from ignition besides the pass. side floor area? can I use one of the clips and hook to switched power at the OEM harness that will be removed from stock HU?

Please advise and once again many thanks... is about time I dragged my gulf war diseased body out and did some real work..hehe...

Also I appreciate the recommendations... Gallagher... he dices..he smices...hehe... sledge-o-matic... he was big when I was in college, beginning of the 80's...


:D

 

Scorp.
Looking good...

How about a 12 disk changer.
The IP-Bus makes it eazy to install.

 

Nomad covered it pretty good. I would also make sure the speaker wires are 14 gauge, 12 for subs. You can wire the power wires and even hook them up as long as you leave the fuse out. It will then look finished and be safe. Also, always leave slack whereever you go. 6" here, a foot there. Reason, since all amps are different, you may need to run the wire to a different side to power. Also, you want a little flex for opening doors, etc. Last, you want to be able to have enough slack to say remove a speaker and then unhook. Its real tough to hook up a speaker with 2" slack. Remember, you can always trim back later.
Good luck and good idea.


[Modified by 92TripleBlack, 9:24 PM 7/15/2002]

 

nice post, great reply's i agree with the others here, use a relay for the remote turn on (can also be used for other things like power antena's neon's if ya want you name it) as a thought to that thou come off the relay and go to a smaller dist. block so you can expand all you want.

Leave a good 2 feet slack on ALL power and ground wires, RCA cables speaker leads, trust me you can cut them shorter but you cant un-cut them.

figure out what you WANT for a system in the car, and run everything now and go up 1 size for power wires, if you need to run 2 sets of rca wires maybe run 3 you can always tuck them in out of sight or worse case use them should you damage the other, in my old car (z-24 vert) i ran everything i would ever need, and 4 months later i was ripping the interior out to add to it so trust me plan it out and pay a bit more now and do it right knowing you have room to upgrade it. there is nothing worse then ripping out your work and adding or re-doing because of a small upgrade.

good luck to you