C5 front speaker wiring
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C5 front speaker wiring
A local stereo shop guy was talking to me about my potential upgrades. He suggested a mono amp for the sub. Not a terrible idea but I found that for only $20 more I could get a 4 channel amp.
So with the 4 channel amp (Alpine MRV-F300), the fronts get two channels, the rear speakers either get disconnected or get powered by the head unit, and the sub gets the other two channels bridged. This amp has high and low pass filters too. I'm still thinking about what to do with the fronts but clearly the factory speakers must go.
I currently have the head unit connected to a Axxess XSVI-2004 and then of course to the factory harnesses. Based on the Axxess instruction sheet I can see what colors are for what speakers.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the way it works is this.. Signals go to the Bose processor, it sends bass to the powered subs, the rest comes back to the head unit's internal amp, and then on out to the twiddlers. If this is the case, can't I just run my new speaker wires to the Axxess unit instead of having to run new wires to the doors directly?
So with the 4 channel amp (Alpine MRV-F300), the fronts get two channels, the rear speakers either get disconnected or get powered by the head unit, and the sub gets the other two channels bridged. This amp has high and low pass filters too. I'm still thinking about what to do with the fronts but clearly the factory speakers must go.
I currently have the head unit connected to a Axxess XSVI-2004 and then of course to the factory harnesses. Based on the Axxess instruction sheet I can see what colors are for what speakers.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the way it works is this.. Signals go to the Bose processor, it sends bass to the powered subs, the rest comes back to the head unit's internal amp, and then on out to the twiddlers. If this is the case, can't I just run my new speaker wires to the Axxess unit instead of having to run new wires to the doors directly?
Last edited by shredhead1080; Apr 24, 2015 at 10:09 AM. Reason: clarification
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A local stereo shop guy was talking to me about my potential upgrades. He suggested a mono amp for the sub. Not a terrible idea but I found that for only $20 more I could get a 4 channel amp.
So with the 4 channel amp (Alpine MRV-F300), the fronts get two channels, the rear speakers either get disconnected or get powered by the head unit, and the sub gets the other two channels bridged. This amp has high and low pass filters too. I'm still thinking about what to do with the fronts but clearly the factory speakers must go.
I currently have the head unit connected to a Axxess XSVI-2004 and then of course to the factory harnesses. Based on the Axxess instruction sheet I can see what colors are for what speakers.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the way it works is this.. Signals go to the Bose processor, it sends bass to the powered subs, the rest comes back to the head unit's internal amp, and then on out to the twiddlers. If this is the case, can't I just run my new speaker wires to the Axxess unit instead of having to run new wires to the doors directly?
So with the 4 channel amp (Alpine MRV-F300), the fronts get two channels, the rear speakers either get disconnected or get powered by the head unit, and the sub gets the other two channels bridged. This amp has high and low pass filters too. I'm still thinking about what to do with the fronts but clearly the factory speakers must go.
I currently have the head unit connected to a Axxess XSVI-2004 and then of course to the factory harnesses. Based on the Axxess instruction sheet I can see what colors are for what speakers.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the way it works is this.. Signals go to the Bose processor, it sends bass to the powered subs, the rest comes back to the head unit's internal amp, and then on out to the twiddlers. If this is the case, can't I just run my new speaker wires to the Axxess unit instead of having to run new wires to the doors directly?
no
run new wires form amp to your component speaklers....
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From: North Augusta, SC
The bose processor isn't used any more when you install the XSVI. Your current HU internal amp is directly powering the door and rear twiddlers. The XSVI is also splitting a line level signal out of the fronts and sending it to the subs to be amplified by the oem sub amp in the doors.
Like Dennis said, if you install a new amp you'll need to run RCA's from HU to amp and new speaker wires from amp to speakers. Running wires in C5 is super easy.
If you plan on using an aftermarket amp on the current door speakers you'll get a lot of distortion unless you turn the gain way down. The 3.5" speakers just can't handle the power.
I would suggest dumping everything currently in the doors and buying a new set of 6.5" component speakers for the doors. Use Ch 1+2 for the doors and bridge 3+4 to the sub.
Like Dennis said, if you install a new amp you'll need to run RCA's from HU to amp and new speaker wires from amp to speakers. Running wires in C5 is super easy.
If you plan on using an aftermarket amp on the current door speakers you'll get a lot of distortion unless you turn the gain way down. The 3.5" speakers just can't handle the power.
I would suggest dumping everything currently in the doors and buying a new set of 6.5" component speakers for the doors. Use Ch 1+2 for the doors and bridge 3+4 to the sub.
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If you plan on using an aftermarket amp on the current door speakers you'll get a lot of distortion unless you turn the gain way down. The 3.5" speakers just can't handle the power.
I would suggest dumping everything currently in the doors and buying a new set of 6.5" component speakers for the doors. Use Ch 1+2 for the doors and bridge 3+4 to the sub.
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Joined: Jun 2014
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I never installed the 3.5 inch speakers. I just couldn't bear to take everything apart and possibly be disappointed. So I replaced and re-wired.
I ended up going with Polk 6.5 components in the doors, Alpine 4 channel amp, and I bridged channels 3+4 to give my Bazooka tube 150 watts. After some time I felt the Bazooka just wasn't cutting it or could possibly have been blown. The label said it could handle 150 watts but I found it over powered even with the gains turned down to half. So, I just installed a sub in the trunk well - a box with a JL Audio 10 inch sub inside. Huge difference.
So the next upgrade(s) are to add coax 5 1/4 to the rear (it's a convertible), and possibly making this a 2 amp setup so the sub gets more power and the rear speakers can get 50 watts instead of being powered by the head unit.
For these rear speakers I was considering Polk again. But since I love the JL sub so much I was even thinking I'd trade the Polk for JL in the front (6.5 component). Any opinion on that?
I ended up going with Polk 6.5 components in the doors, Alpine 4 channel amp, and I bridged channels 3+4 to give my Bazooka tube 150 watts. After some time I felt the Bazooka just wasn't cutting it or could possibly have been blown. The label said it could handle 150 watts but I found it over powered even with the gains turned down to half. So, I just installed a sub in the trunk well - a box with a JL Audio 10 inch sub inside. Huge difference.
So the next upgrade(s) are to add coax 5 1/4 to the rear (it's a convertible), and possibly making this a 2 amp setup so the sub gets more power and the rear speakers can get 50 watts instead of being powered by the head unit.
For these rear speakers I was considering Polk again. But since I love the JL sub so much I was even thinking I'd trade the Polk for JL in the front (6.5 component). Any opinion on that?
