teddyca

So the time has come that I add some bass to this system. Here's the truth. I am actually really pleased with the current levels of bass. The crappy door sounds like it is going to fall apart but matting will fix that. So I went out and bought the 2 10" JL Box and was going to mimic the install a local shop did to another C7 in the area by removing the rear box and adding a converter. After some research I found that the rear box is not the subs but in fact rear/center staging so it is staying. Also that the inputs to that speaker are not ideal so it looks like the smarter folks out there are tapping the front door speaker where the actual 8" subs reside. Here's my question. Do you remove the door panel to get to the source or can you grab it before it goes through the door? I'm looking to not remove a door panel at this time. Are there any write-ups or pictures? If I have some details I don't mind taking pictures as I go and creating write-ups for future folks just looking for some initial guidance before I just rip into the car and start probing for impedance. LOL

Eff A Ford

Most people tap in right after the amp. I believe it's located somewhere in the trunk.
http://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/...tml#post196548

racebum

consider playing around with subs. unless you're trying to get really really loud there is no use in using 2 10s in a corvette. just get one better one and preserve your space. a single 10w6v3 has almost the output of a pair of 10w3s and can function in a very small box or align to a qtc .707 in about .95 cuft which brings up 30hz about 2db over the JL spec .55cu box and costs you about half a db in the 60-100hz range. in a .95 cuft box you would have an F3 of 41hz and in .55cu it would be 43hz. smaller box will be a bit more punchy. larger, better with rolling lows and less boomy along with being more efficient. if you could fit 1.3cuft a 10w7 would even work and give you more still.