Dreaded Ign Whine
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Dreaded Ign Whine
Just removed my 5 ch amp as i wanted a better sound in which my new/used amp gives me...Boston Acoustic GT-42
But now im getting what some refer to as alt whine in speaker's... Grounds and other conn seem ? fine, and all i did was a swap from one amp to another..
Should i be looking for a ground issue not good enough ? or other wire issue.
But now im getting what some refer to as alt whine in speaker's... Grounds and other conn seem ? fine, and all i did was a swap from one amp to another..
Should i be looking for a ground issue not good enough ? or other wire issue.
Last edited by carls2004; 07-29-2017 at 05:26 PM.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#6
Melting Slicks
Never heard of such a thing (unless you are using maybe the worst GLI's). I have used GLI's for a long time in many system installs and never heard any negative affect on the sound quality.
While it might be "best" to eliminate what is causing the group loop, it is just so much easier just to pick up ground loop isolator and call it a day.
Just did this in my corvette. Did a complete install and didn't have whine for like the 2 weeks and then I replaced the PAC unit (rp5-gm11 to the rp4-gm11). Instead of ripping it out I just picked up a pair for GLI's, hooked it up and the whine was gone. No change in the audio quality.
While it might be "best" to eliminate what is causing the group loop, it is just so much easier just to pick up ground loop isolator and call it a day.
Just did this in my corvette. Did a complete install and didn't have whine for like the 2 weeks and then I replaced the PAC unit (rp5-gm11 to the rp4-gm11). Instead of ripping it out I just picked up a pair for GLI's, hooked it up and the whine was gone. No change in the audio quality.
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carls2004 (08-02-2017)
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
But then other's claim that directional wire's in car audio is all bull .... just to push sale's. ????
Last edited by carls2004; 08-20-2017 at 12:02 PM.
#8
Racer
I think in your case the correct fix is to eliminate the ground loop. In rare cases if you have a Pioneer head unit you may have blown the pico fuse and have engine whine as a result. Assuming that is not the case you should ground all your components to a single point (including a line from the battery, headunit, other external equalizers etc, and amplifiers). This is assuming you have run all your rca cables far away from any power wires - because that can cause engine whine in of itself.
Last edited by Tone; 08-29-2017 at 12:25 AM.
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carls2004 (08-29-2017)
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I think in your case the correct fix is to eliminate the ground loop. In rare cases if you have a Pioneer head unit you may have blown the pico fuse and have engine whine as a result. Assuming that is not the case you should ground all your components to a single point (including a line from the battery, headunit, other external equalizers etc, and amplifiers). This is assuming you have run all your rca cables far away from any power wires - because that can cause engine whine in of itself.
If so and to keep amp ground wire short i would then need to run another ground all the way from the battery back to that grounding point. And also the head unit ??..
My main positive run's into veh from PDC and down pass side of veh to amp just behind rear seat partition.. And speaker wires run along tunnel, including remote wire that i have shielded in rubber vac hose...
Oh, I have a Alpine 960HDMI head unit in veh now..
Last edited by carls2004; 08-29-2017 at 07:04 PM.
#10
Racer
So your saying ground all at one single point.??. Yes.
If so and to keep amp ground wire short i would then need to run another ground all the way from the battery back to that grounding point. And also the head unit ??.. Yes, and with your equipment I'd use 4 AWG for that run in your case, and 16 AWG to your head unit.
Alternatively: You can run a good solid 4 AWG ground to your chassis from the amp, then make that your ground point and add a solid 8 AWG or thicker connection between your engine block and the chassis, the alternator housing and the chassis, and also your battery and the chassis. Then run a 16 AWG from the head unit to that same ground point.
My main positive run's into veh from PDC and down pass side of veh to amp just behind rear seat partition.. And speaker wires run along tunnel, including remote wire that i have shielded in rubber vac hose... I'd be more concerned about where the rca lines are in relation to the vehicle's factory power lines or your power line to the amp - as TheProsecutor already mentioned.
Oh, I have a Alpine 960HDMI head unit in veh now.. That eliminates the pico issue possibility.
Anyway - it's been my experience that doing what I've mentioned electrically works for engine whine issues. Another thing I do is run powerful amplifiers like yours so the gains are never turned up more than half way for mids and tweets. For example: on my wife's car stereo (which is grounded to a single point on the chassis) I recently turned down the amplifier gains from about 3/4 to halfway because of faint engine noise through the tweeters and it went away completely.
If so and to keep amp ground wire short i would then need to run another ground all the way from the battery back to that grounding point. And also the head unit ??.. Yes, and with your equipment I'd use 4 AWG for that run in your case, and 16 AWG to your head unit.
Alternatively: You can run a good solid 4 AWG ground to your chassis from the amp, then make that your ground point and add a solid 8 AWG or thicker connection between your engine block and the chassis, the alternator housing and the chassis, and also your battery and the chassis. Then run a 16 AWG from the head unit to that same ground point.
My main positive run's into veh from PDC and down pass side of veh to amp just behind rear seat partition.. And speaker wires run along tunnel, including remote wire that i have shielded in rubber vac hose... I'd be more concerned about where the rca lines are in relation to the vehicle's factory power lines or your power line to the amp - as TheProsecutor already mentioned.
Oh, I have a Alpine 960HDMI head unit in veh now.. That eliminates the pico issue possibility.
Anyway - it's been my experience that doing what I've mentioned electrically works for engine whine issues. Another thing I do is run powerful amplifiers like yours so the gains are never turned up more than half way for mids and tweets. For example: on my wife's car stereo (which is grounded to a single point on the chassis) I recently turned down the amplifier gains from about 3/4 to halfway because of faint engine noise through the tweeters and it went away completely.
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I was able to add my own ground at the head unit and ran the wire back to my amp ground location. And walla all my noise is gone..
Last edited by carls2004; 09-02-2017 at 04:23 PM.