No sound at all.
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Joined: May 2015
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From: Westlake, OH & Melbourne, FL
No sound at all.
I have an ‘07 C6 NON-BOSE with a Kenwood DNX692 head unit that I installed a few years ago. There have been no recent mods or changes to the car. Yesterday while the stereo was on it suddenly went silent. The head unit appears to be functioning, but I have no music, bells, chimes or the nice lady from the GPS telling me where to turn.
The fuse (#31) for the amp has continuity. Is there a way to test the pins on the plug coming into the amp for power or somehow determine if the amp is getting power or if it has gone south on me?
I have searched and found little help on this subject. I am hoping to avoid tearing that dashboard/console apart again, I’m getting older every day and I’m not as agile as I used to be.
The fuse (#31) for the amp has continuity. Is there a way to test the pins on the plug coming into the amp for power or somehow determine if the amp is getting power or if it has gone south on me?
I have searched and found little help on this subject. I am hoping to avoid tearing that dashboard/console apart again, I’m getting older every day and I’m not as agile as I used to be.
Last edited by BillytheKidder; Jun 5, 2019 at 11:29 AM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 552
Likes: 37
From: Westlake, OH & Melbourne, FL
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 552
Likes: 37
From: Westlake, OH & Melbourne, FL
VICTORY!!, I think.
After much research, jumpering, and contorting myself under and in the dashboard, I think I have it diagnosed and am feeling pretty clever and full of myself.
First I hooked up speakers to the HU (music), then ran long RCA cords to the stereo in the garage (music) to ensure that the HU indeed was operational. At least now I knew that wasn't the problem
The failure appears to be in the RP3-GM11 transition module (power in from the blue/white conductor - no power out). It took some time to determine this. When I finally figured out what conductor at the amp was supposed to be energized (it was called the antenna enabler and was not properly color coded) and jumpered it to 12v, I had sound again. Then I started backtracking and ended up at the transition module. It was all made interesting because the schematics I found said the conductor was white and it was not (more like light tan).
I'm just going to jumper the conductors at the transition, rather than buy a new one, I don't see how that can be harmful. Any thoughts or comments, does this sound correct?
After much research, jumpering, and contorting myself under and in the dashboard, I think I have it diagnosed and am feeling pretty clever and full of myself.
First I hooked up speakers to the HU (music), then ran long RCA cords to the stereo in the garage (music) to ensure that the HU indeed was operational. At least now I knew that wasn't the problem
The failure appears to be in the RP3-GM11 transition module (power in from the blue/white conductor - no power out). It took some time to determine this. When I finally figured out what conductor at the amp was supposed to be energized (it was called the antenna enabler and was not properly color coded) and jumpered it to 12v, I had sound again. Then I started backtracking and ended up at the transition module. It was all made interesting because the schematics I found said the conductor was white and it was not (more like light tan).
I'm just going to jumper the conductors at the transition, rather than buy a new one, I don't see how that can be harmful. Any thoughts or comments, does this sound correct?
Last edited by BillytheKidder; Jun 11, 2019 at 12:19 PM.
