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Have you thought about cutting a couple holes in the rear speaker wall and adding ports to let more bass into the cabin?
I don't think I'd do that, Non-ported boxes (which those are as far as I can tell), the volume of the space of the box is specifically designed for the speaker that they'll house, non-ported boxes require less volume that ported boxes. For this reason, I'm afraid if he adds ports to what are specifically designed as sealed boxes, he'll end up ruining the acoustics of the boxes as a result. Then there'd be the issue of routing the ports over the hump between the trunk and the cab of the car which I'd think you'd need to do to get the full benefit of them, I'm afraid the roof would impact them when it's folded in. Not saying it would be impossible to do, but I think you'd need to build your own custom enclosure properly calculated out as a ported one and get creative on how to port it into the cab, rather than trying to modify the boxes he has.
I don't think I'd do that, Non-ported boxes (which those are as far as I can tell), the volume of the space of the box is specifically designed for the speaker that they'll house, non-ported boxes require less volume that ported boxes. For this reason, I'm afraid if he adds ports to what are specifically designed as sealed boxes, he'll end up ruining the acoustics of the boxes as a result. Then there'd be the issue of routing the ports over the hump between the trunk and the cab of the car which I'd think you'd need to do to get the full benefit of them, I'm afraid the roof would impact them when it's folded in. Not saying it would be impossible to do, but I think you'd need to build your own custom enclosure properly calculated out as a ported one and get creative on how to port it into the cab, rather than trying to modify the boxes he has.
Spoiler
Thanks Mads. It really does work well as it is. Below 50hz is non directional and I have the head unit crossing out at 50. I'm really very pleased with what I achieved with an easy low cost install.
in days past I did a lot of crossover network design and assembled my own speakers and home theater subwoofers but I moved to the bay area and a workshop like Mads has is hard to find. Ports and passive radiators and enclosure size all need to be considered in the design along with the TS parameters of the sub itself. With the tiny spaces we have to work with i think Mads has the best configuration I've seen anywhere. I have the easiest one and it performs really well.
I don't think I'd do that, Non-ported boxes (which those are as far as I can tell), the volume of the space of the box is specifically designed for the speaker that they'll house, non-ported boxes require less volume that ported boxes. For this reason, I'm afraid if he adds ports to what are specifically designed as sealed boxes, he'll end up ruining the acoustics of the boxes as a result. Then there'd be the issue of routing the ports over the hump between the trunk and the cab of the car which I'd think you'd need to do to get the full benefit of them, I'm afraid the roof would impact them when it's folded in. Not saying it would be impossible to do, but I think you'd need to build your own custom enclosure properly calculated out as a ported one and get creative on how to port it into the cab, rather than trying to modify the boxes he has.
I wasn't saying to port the boxes. Just put a few ports in the rear speaker partition to direct the bass in the cabin. The part of his box facing the cabin is about 3 1/2 inches. He could easily put a couple of two inch ports and the roof would not hit. I've measured every which way in the back of my Vert. I know the dimensions of his boxes and pretty much have your sized up too. Just not sure I want to get rids of my rear speakers to put subwoofers there. Thinking about going with one of these:
I wasn't saying to port the boxes. Just put a few ports in the rear speaker partition to direct the bass in the cabin. The part of his box facing the cabin is about 3 1/2 inches. He could easily put a couple of two inch ports and the roof would not hit. I've measured every which way in the back of my Vert. I know the dimensions of his boxes and pretty much have your sized up too. Just not sure I want to get rids of my rear speakers to put subwoofers there. Thinking about going with one of these:
Oh, ok I see where you're coming from, yeah, doing something like that just might help. I was debating the same thing as you about getting rid of my rears when I did my car, but to be honest, I don't miss them at all, the added bass I achieved by adding the sub more than makes up for the loss of them. Funny you should mention that Kicker sub, I was in a car stereo dealership today to get some more speaker box carpet, and they were demoing that same speaker to one of their customers, I didn't really have a chance to see what it sounded like, but it looked pretty compact, and I know a passive radiator can add to the bass output of them.
Have you thought about cutting a couple holes in the rear speaker wall and adding ports to let more bass into the cabin?
This was exactly what I was considering doing, but I didn't know if that would be going too far. I have a sealed box in the trunk, and it sounds great, but I can't help but think the barrier to the trunk is muffling it a bit more than needed... but once you cut it you better be happy with it!!
Where did you find those plastic port thingys? I had been looking up "grommets", etc but ultimately gave up.
This was exactly what I was considering doing, but I didn't know if that would be going too far. I have a sealed box in the trunk, and it sounds great, but I can't help but think the barrier to the trunk is muffling it a bit more than needed... but once you cut it you better be happy with it!!
Where did you find those plastic port thingys? I had been looking up "grommets", etc but ultimately gave up.
There again, you have to consider box volume before you go cutting into it. A ported box requires more volume than a sealed box, and I'm sure your sealed box is sized accordingly for those speakers, and porting it I'm sure would make it to where it won't sound as good as it does now. Here's some examples for box volume to show you the differences, these are Kickers specs for a 10" for example. MIN SEALED BOX VOL [cu. ft, L]: 0.8, 22.7 MIN VENTED BOX VOL [cu. ft, L]: 1.25, 35.4 So as you can see, the vented box requires more volume. I think what I'd suggest you try, is to remove the rear speaker panel altogether and see what that does for you, I think by doing this it would be a little less muffled, I removed the rears on mine, and I don't miss them at all, besides I had to in order to mount my sub. The speakers getting muffled was one of my biggest concerns when I looked at different sub options when I started looking at adding a sub to my car, that's when I decided to see if I could design and build my own that was front firing so it wouldn't be affected with the top down. And after a number of changes in the design of my original concept, this is what eventually ended up with.
There again, you have to consider box volume before you go cutting into it. A ported box requires more volume than a sealed box, and I'm sure your sealed box is sized accordingly for those speakers, and porting it I'm sure would make it to where it won't sound as good as it does now. Here's some examples for box volume to show you the differences, these are Kickers specs for a 10" for example. MIN SEALED BOX VOL [cu. ft, L]: 0.8, 22.7 MIN VENTED BOX VOL [cu. ft, L]: 1.25, 35.4 So as you can see, the vented box requires more volume. I think what I'd suggest you try, is to remove the rear speaker panel altogether and see what that does for you, I think by doing this it would be a little less muffled, I removed the rears on mine, and I don't miss them at all, besides I had to in order to mount my sub. The speakers getting muffled was one of my biggest concerns when I looked at different sub options when I started looking at adding a sub to my car, that's when I decided to see if I could design and build my own that was front firing so it wouldn't be affected with the top down. And after a number of changes in the design of my original concept, this is what eventually ended up with.
I think there may be a bit of confusion with what I'm talking about "porting"--or I'm not reading your post correctly. (You're setup is really nice, BTW). I'm not talking about porting the box, the box is already complete and sealed. I'm only talking about a way to open up the air flow between the trunk and the cabin. I didn't want to remove the rear speakers--they're hooked up to my 6 channel amp--but I thought about adding ports next to them. Does that make sense? My setup is not as clean as yours and some would argue they don't want to lose the trunk space (The box is easily removable, however) but here is a picture of mine:
I think there may be a bit of confusion with what I'm talking about "porting"--or I'm not reading your post correctly. (You're setup is really nice, BTW). I'm not talking about porting the box, the box is already complete and sealed. I'm only talking about a way to open up the air flow between the trunk and the cabin. I didn't want to remove the rear speakers--they're hooked up to my 6 channel amp--but I thought about adding ports next to them. Does that make sense? My setup is not as clean as yours and some would argue they don't want to lose the trunk space (The box is easily removable, however) but here is a picture of mine:
Oh, ok. I don't think adding ports to the speaker panel would help much, maybe a little bit, there again I think your best bet would be to remove the rear speaker panel, what I'd suggest is pull it out and see how it sounds, you can always put it back in.
Oh, ok. I don't think adding ports to the speaker panel would help much, maybe a little bit, there again I think your best bet would be to remove the rear speaker panel, what I'd suggest is pull it out and see how it sounds, you can always put it back in.
I've taken the panel out before, but I thought it provides some sort of support for the top, is that not the case?
