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Suggestions? I have original HU , and I have Polk Audio DB351 in the door and DB521 in the rear. I noticed today that the sub on the passenger door sounds blown. In order to save my door 3.5 speakers can I install the speaker adapter in the door and install the 3.5 and add a Polk Audio DB 651 to the adapter and wire it all to a new amp and sub that I plan to install? or should I save up some money and install components, would that sound much better than the polk audios in the door. I'm not sure what is the best way to go without breaking the bank.
The Polk speakers you've installed are a relatively inexpensive way to add a little 'sparkle' to the Bose system.
You can get a good used OEM Bose 10" (if you have a C6) sub for next to nothing from owners who have upgraded their systems. This would be the cheapest approach.
Make sure the rattle isn't coming from something other than the speaker. Like a pen or tire gauge rolling around in the door pocket. Ask me how I know. LOL
Last edited by Knob Jockey; Jun 2, 2020 at 10:19 PM.
which amp are you getting? Many have been disappointed by going with a 6.5" in the doors. I would stick with an 8 or 10, even a 6x9 would be better than a 6.5 for midbass and overall front stage sound.
which amp are you getting? Many have been disappointed by going with a 6.5" in the doors. I would stick with an 8 or 10, even a 6x9 would be better than a 6.5 for midbass and overall front stage sound.
The Polk speakers you've installed are a relatively inexpensive way to add a little 'sparkle' to the Bose system.
You can get a good used OEM Bose 10" (not 8") sub for next to nothing from owners who have upgraded their systems. This would be the cheapest approach.
Make sure the rattle isn't coming from something other than the speaker. Like a pen or tire gauge rolling around in the door pocket. Ask me how I know. LOL
My door speaker sounded blown, it ended up being some hand sanitizer bouncing around.
Forgot this was a C5, so a 10" is out of the picture. Factory is an 8", you can buy or make a plate that will host a 8" midbass and that 3.5" full range that you have. Just use the factory speaker plate to trace out the form onto something that can handle moisture.
You'll end up with something like this:
I've got a pair of 8" Kicker Midbass (used) or 8" Earthquake (BNIB) that I can make you a deal on.
Oh, and here is the 6x9 in the door just in case you didn't believe me But then there's no room for that 3.5"; which won't be needed anyway.
Forgot this was a C5, so a 10" is out of the picture. Factory is an 8", you can buy or make a plate that will host a 8" midbass and that 3.5" full range that you have. Just use the factory speaker plate to trace out the form onto something that can handle moisture.
You'll end up with something like this:
I've got a pair of 8" Kicker Midbass (used) or 8" Earthquake (BNIB) that I can make you a deal on.
Oh, and here is the 6x9 in the door just in case you didn't believe me But then there's no room for that 3.5"; which won't be needed anyway.
Thanks Vince appreciate it , should the Mid Bass be the same brand Polk Audio , I hear folks talking about keeping the same timbre... also I saw your work on the C7 it is looking sweet
Thanks Vince appreciate it , should the Mid Bass be the same brand Polk Audio , I hear folks talking about keeping the same timbre... also I saw your work on the C7 it is looking sweet
thanks
brand name is up to the individual. what you really want to focus on is frequency response from each speaker and if running multiple tweeters, you have to look at the cone material. You can turn yours into a 3-way setup. The tweeter on that 3.5" should have a high pass capacitor on it already. Add a 150mf capacitor inline with the 3.5 so it plays 250 hz and up or 80mf for 500 hz and up. Then get the 8" to play the midbass (set the x-over at the amp high pass around 80 hz) and into it's natural rolloff on the high end. The subwoofer in the back should play 100 hz and down.
150 mf capacitor from parts express.
Also, I just ordered these in a 10". The specs look really good and they are cheap enough to "try"
8" door Bose subs
But then there's no room for that 3.5"; which won't be needed anyway.
