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I have 2 JL 10w6v2 in a sealed, single chamber box. These sounded good and hit hard. However, one just blew. What would you say is as good or better as these JL's since I may have to buy 2 new ones? (Yes, they are in a C6)
No doubt!! But, I'm wondering what else besides JL would be as good (in clarity and punch) or better. Looking for 2 - 10" subs which cost no more than the JL's ($550 ish each) but maybe clearer and perhaps hit harder... I'm told that for the same money as the JL's I can do much better - although I have my doubts...
Right box, right power, I would put my money on JL all day, everyday. My last system i had 2 12tw1 in a ported box. I was going to try 3 x 10tw3 in a ported box this time. I even got the box design from JLA.
Did you consider just replacing the blown one with a new 10w6v3? Those V2’s are kinda long in the tooth now and the newer V3 are made stoutly. I replaced my 10w3v2 with a V3. Granted it’s a single in a JL stealthbox but it sounds great, even better with the V3. Being that you have twins, with the sub bass signal it really shouldn’t be noticeable that they’re not exact twins. If you lose the V2 replace it with a new V3. Just a thought
Did you consider just replacing the blown one with a new 10w6v3? Those V2’s are kinda long in the tooth now and the newer V3 are made stoutly. I replaced my 10w3v2 with a V3. Granted it’s a single in a JL stealthbox but it sounds great, even better with the V3. Being that you have twins, with the sub bass signal it really shouldn’t be noticeable that they’re not exact twins. If you lose the V2 replace it with a new V3. Just a thought
Yes, I did consider that. But, I called JL to ask and they emphatically said not to do that. They said, "The V3 will have different response characteristics than the v2 which would result in bass cancellation or smearing of the bass for less detail." So, unfortunately, that's not an option. Ideally, I'd like to get the blown V2 fixed but I can't find anyone that does it. Hence I'm leaning towards buying 2 new V3's - but at $1200, I REALLY don't want to....
So, are there really good (or better) alternatives to a JL 10" w6v3 sub at perhaps a lower cost? One that has the clarity to pound without flutter and distortion?
Last edited by webdzynes; Feb 10, 2021 at 10:30 AM.
The answer to your question is not straightforward. Are you building a new box for them? Reusing the old box? How much airspace,. How much power, etc.
There are many great subs out there, the 10w6 included. But at the end of the day, the sub to box match will be the first thing you need to think about before you ask what will hit harder. The next is what you mean by "sound better". Do you want a flatter response? Do you want a sub that will blend well with your midrange? Lots to define before your seemingly simple question can be answered.
The answer to your question is not straightforward. Are you building a new box for them? Reusing the old box? How much airspace,. How much power, etc.
There are many great subs out there, the 10w6 included. But at the end of the day, the sub to box match will be the first thing you need to think about before you ask what will hit harder. The next is what you mean by "sound better". Do you want a flatter response? Do you want a sub that will blend well with your midrange? Lots to define before your seemingly simple question can be answered.
Yes, you are quite right. I guess the best way to answer that is to use the JL 10w6v2 as my starting reference. I run two in a single chamber, sealed box built to accommodate their required cubic volume. I have read some posts which say there are alternatives which sound as good and hit as hard but for less money. Similarly, I've read there are alternatives that hit harder and sound better but for the same money. Of course, that all subjective and I'm not a sound engineer. That said, I'm just looking for those of you who are very familiar with this JL sub and would still choose something else because that alternative choice is better to them. I am just looking for what these alternatives may be, by name, if they exist at all. Perhaps they don't exist - that's why the post...
Yes, you are quite right. I guess the best way to answer that is to use the JL 10w6v2 as my starting reference. I run two in a single chamber, sealed box built to accommodate their required cubic volume. I have read some posts which say there are alternatives which sound as good and hit as hard but for less money. Similarly, I've read there are alternatives that hit harder and sound better but for the same money. Of course, that all subjective and I'm not a sound engineer. That said, I'm just looking for those of you who are very familiar with this JL sub and would still choose something else because that alternative choice is better to them. I am just looking for what these alternatives may be, by name, if they exist at all. Perhaps they don't exist - that's why the post...
I'd look at the rockford fosgate t1, and alpine type X. The Kicker L7 put out some major bass, but you'd have to adjust your cutout because it's square. It does have some potential distortion from the square cone, but unless you've got golden ears you probably won't notice it.
Yes, you are quite right. I guess the best way to answer that is to use the JL 10w6v2 as my starting reference. I run two in a single chamber, sealed box built to accommodate their required cubic volume. I have read some posts which say there are alternatives which sound as good and hit as hard but for less money. Similarly, I've read there are alternatives that hit harder and sound better but for the same money. Of course, that all subjective and I'm not a sound engineer. That said, I'm just looking for those of you who are very familiar with this JL sub and would still choose something else because that alternative choice is better to them. I am just looking for what these alternatives may be, by name, if they exist at all. Perhaps they don't exist - that's why the post...
I would suggest that if the posts or other materials that you have read and say that there are alternatives do not list said alternatives, then the post or article is not worth reading or that the alternative does not exist.
As others have said, sound is subjective, so what you might think is good, others may think sounds like trash, and vice versa.
The answer to your question is not straightforward. Are you building a new box for them? Reusing the old box? How much airspace,. How much power, etc.
There are many great subs out there, the 10w6 included. But at the end of the day, the sub to box match will be the first thing you need to think about before you ask what will hit harder. The next is what you mean by "sound better". Do you want a flatter response? Do you want a sub that will blend well with your midrange? Lots to define before your seemingly simple question can be answered.
100% spot on.
Another question...how much power do you have available to drive them? Do you have to run a "conventional sub" or are you okay with shallows? How are your current subs positioned?
I built a sealed, single-chambered box with the correct volume to house 2-10w6v2's. However, I power each sub with its own JL 500/1 amp. Hits VERY hard so now I have to either buy another v2, 2 v3's (if they are worth the extra cost) or 2 of another brand altogether.
I built a sealed, single-chambered box with the correct volume to house 2-10w6v2's. However, I power each sub with its own JL 500/1 amp. Hits VERY hard so now I have to either buy another v2, 2 v3's (if they are worth the extra cost) or 2 of another brand altogether.
if powered by different source, subs should have their own chamber. The slight variations in signals could be the cause of that one subs demise.