Your going to love it! I'm running JL audio Mids and tweets in the door and JL 2 way in the back and JL 10 inch sub running 2 amps it sound great but the Base was lacking and drove me nuts because it really should hit hard then realized i used the wrong tone setting the gain! after adjusting it all i can say is Wow what a difference

 

Hello Audio enthusiasts I just bought a 17 Z06 Vert and the Bose audio is really lacking.
I purchased:
JL Audio RD900/5
4 Hertz Mille Pro 6.5
1 JL Audio 8w3 going into the rear stock location
PAC AmpPRO AP4-GM61
PAC APH-GM02 AmpPro
I understand where the module is on the passenger side.
My questions are:

Does the PAC AmpPro get installed near the passenger module?

And if so do I run the RCAs to the trunk so they can connect to the amp?

Also when I get to that passenger module is it self explanatory what plugs into where?

Will I still need the noise cancelling dongle connected to the Bose Amp?

Thanks,
Dom in Los Angeles

 

Also, the wiring diagram from PAC does not work for the Corvette. Please test each set to find the correct ones. The 8w3 may be too deep for the factory box.

 

Hi Vince,
You are correct about the sub being to deep! I bought a 1 inch adapter. Yes I will use a 9V battery to test each speaker lead for correct placement.

Now I know why I never hear quality sound at a vette meet, because its a pain to achieve and expensive

Thanks

Dominic

 

Vince do you think the speakers I purchased will give me decent sound? Tweets, 3.5s and center will be disabled. I thought about adding shallow subs to the doors but that might be overkill on the bass. Whats yours thoughts on disabling the other speakers I mentioned?

Thanks,
Dominic

 

you'll have less bass and it won't be as clear as your legs will block most of the sound. I would not go with anything smaller than an 8 inch. And it has to be a woofer/midbass that's designed to go in a door and not a sealed box. You will definitely need to install some sound deadening material in the doors. You should take a look at my c6 and c7 build threads....

 

Okay Vince I took your advice and ditched the 8 inch JL in the stock location, and ordered a JL 10W6 D4 plus ported box. That should cover the bass

 

it's really not, just like everything else, you either know how to do it or be willing to listen to someone that does. I know audio, but I'm no expert.
if we can get a convertible c7 to @madsonp , all of the bass issues would be resolved.

 

I got down to the radio module and only slid it out partially so I could unplug the two plugs. I added a pic from another thread showing the PAC and radio module connected. There are speaker designations written on the PAC, just not sure how accurate they are. I broke a tab on the kick panel while removing (JB WEld)

Edit: you need to remove the thick black wiring harness clips to give you slack

 

 

Im new to the forum and always try to give back what I can. Its people like Vince that make it easier for the rest of us.

 

These hook up to the Bose amp minus the lower one in the pic. Disregard the wire labels they are wrong, Use a 9volt battery to see where your speakers are located.

PAC APH-GM02 AmpPro Speaker Connection Harness

 

Use fuse slot 37 and connect two fuses to this remote wire. I only connected 1 fuse like the picture and waste 2 hours .

 

 

Well I am finally done. I used a large portion of the trunk that some wont like. I do not like the behind the seat subwoofer box look, and would rather give up trunk space. I removed the convertible top interior piece so the box would fit, and used a taped magnet to fool the system. I could not find sub boxes for C7 convertibles that fit in the rear, or pics. The sub is a 10 inch JL 10W6 powered by a JL 900/5 RD . The remote sub woofer controller from the PAC box did not work for me, so I used the JL sub remote.

Used the front aux charger for my bass **** control.

After starting the car I had so many codes on the display, stablilitrack, rear axle, and engine light with poor idle. I changed the battery and I still had the the codes. I disconnected the ground wire and checked the small wire attached to the ground, waited 30 minutes before reattaching. All codes were gone except service axel, and idle was good.

Still need to hide the wires with black plastic tubing.

 

@VinceC5 and @gsd103, thank you both for your comments above. I had just ordered 3-foot RCAs and started reading the Pac Amp Pro manual, and couldn't believe that the unit gets installed in the passenger footwell area (hence digging up this thread). Seeing all the other amp installs in the back, I erroneously assumed that the Pac Amp would also be installed in between the Bose and new amp, but that was incorrect... So now I now have 20-foot RCAs on order . The silver lining here is that it looks like I won't have to buy a separate ANC-canceling dongle, per Vince's reply.

Some questions for you:

* I had to look up what you were referring to with the 9V battery trick. That's great! Any chance that would hurt the smaller (3") door speakers? The video mentions not doing it on the tweeters, so I assume it would be difficult to test the door woofer wires since they're wired together with the tweeters?

* I am planning on mounting the amp in place of the rear sub in the hatch area, which I will remove since I'll be adding a 12" in the hatch. Is there anything special I need to do to "trick" the Bose system since the stock sub will be missing, or is removing the sub merely an unplug-and-remove exercise? (I'll have a Pac Amp Pro + aftermarket 5-channel amp powering all the speakers and new sub, so the Bose amp will be bypassed on all those fronts.)

* Dom, awesome job on the cigarette lighter plug! I saw some other folks had cut out a square/trapezoid to fit their control *****, but yours looks close to "factory." Is there a specific cigarette lighter plug cover that you used to mount the control ****, so that it was round? Or how was that accomplished?


9V battery trick video.

 

The tweeter has an inline crossover. This will protect it from the battery. The only bad thing is that the cap will charge up and the woofer will only pop once. You'll have to short the two leads to make it pop again.

 

Thanks Vince. Any idea if there will be any issues in me removing the stock Bose 8" sub in the back, and putting my 5-channel amp in its location? Multiple people said in posts that they did the swap, but didn't give any details if they had to do something special to the Bose amp since now the stock sub will be missing.

 

no issues as long as you don't short out any of the leads.

 

Update to my setup. I needed a JL audio tweak DSP to adjust all levels, without it was flat. I tried to save money thinking I did not need one, and boy was I wrong. The system really woke up!