C6 speaker replacement
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 122
Likes: 39
From: Massachusetts
C6 speaker replacement
I have changed the head-unit to a Kenwood DMX706S. I would like to replace the speakers. (Upper and Lower Door / Rears). My question, does the stock BOSE amp (in the foot well) have enough power to run new speakers?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,847
Likes: 439
From: Spring Texas
Yes and no. The upper speaker is a 4 ohm speaker, so that is common. The lower woofer is a 1 ohm, so replacing it with anything with a higher impedance will result in lower output.
2 ohm load is 1/2 the output in watts.
4 ohm load is 1/4 the output in watts.
I'm assuming you have the bose system with the 10" woofer.
2 ohm load is 1/2 the output in watts.
4 ohm load is 1/4 the output in watts.
I'm assuming you have the bose system with the 10" woofer.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 5,515
Likes: 646
From: Silicon Valley and Yosemite, CA
I got rid of the whole Blose system. I installed JL Audio speakers. The 6.5 in the lower doors and the 1" tweeter in the upper. I don't remember the model numbers but they were in the $600 range. Then and this is the coupe de grass I installed an 8" JL sub in the left rear cubby and run a 500 watt JL amp. I bridged the rear speaker output to run the sub. I don't do rear speakers they just create a sound mess. The idiot that did that and the horrid center speaker had no clue how to create a great sound and soundstage.
That little 8" sub does a great job of filling in the missing sound. For me it is not about having a giant bump, the sub should fill in the lows and the mid lows and create exactly what the band would produce on stage. My C6 had an amazing sound system. People would come running and screaming out of their homes thinking the band is going buy...LOL
That little 8" sub does a great job of filling in the missing sound. For me it is not about having a giant bump, the sub should fill in the lows and the mid lows and create exactly what the band would produce on stage. My C6 had an amazing sound system. People would come running and screaming out of their homes thinking the band is going buy...LOL
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 122
Likes: 39
From: Massachusetts
Yes and no. The upper speaker is a 4 ohm speaker, so that is common. The lower woofer is a 1 ohm, so replacing it with anything with a higher impedance will result in lower output.
2 ohm load is 1/2 the output in watts.
4 ohm load is 1/4 the output in watts.
I'm assuming you have the bose system with the 10" woofer.
2 ohm load is 1/2 the output in watts.
4 ohm load is 1/4 the output in watts.
I'm assuming you have the bose system with the 10" woofer.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 122
Likes: 39
From: Massachusetts
Based off of Crutchfield's recommendations this is what I came up with. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Focal ICU 130 for the mid panel rears
JL Audio C2-350x for the upper doors
Focal ACX 165 for the lower doors
Thanks
Focal ICU 130 for the mid panel rears
JL Audio C2-350x for the upper doors
Focal ACX 165 for the lower doors
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 21,136
Likes: 212
From: Long Island New York
You’d be better off with one good pair of components for the doors and and the coax for the rears would be fine. Get a 2 channel amp for the components and you could use the head unit to power the coax but if you got a 4 channel amp you could run the fronts and rears very nicely and sound better then using the HU for power. It’ll be a bunch better than the stock equipment.
That’s what many here do for their C6’s, me included.
That’s what many here do for their C6’s, me included.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 122
Likes: 39
From: Massachusetts
I might go with this setup, I do plan on adding a stealthbox sub which is why I am going with a 5 channel amp.
Kicker 46CXA660.5T CX Series 5-channel
JL Audio C2650 component speaker system
Kicker 47KSC504 rears.
I'm thinking this might be a bit overkill
Kicker 46CXA660.5T CX Series 5-channel
JL Audio C2650 component speaker system
Kicker 47KSC504 rears.
I'm thinking this might be a bit overkill
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 21,136
Likes: 212
From: Long Island New York
That’s a better plan and not overkill at all. It will sound noticeably better than the stock equipment. One thing I would suggest, getting front components that can handle more power then the rear fill. The front components are the ones that you want to shine and dominate the cabin.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 122
Likes: 39
From: Massachusetts
That’s a better plan and not overkill at all. It will sound noticeably better than the stock equipment. One thing I would suggest, getting front components that can handle more power then the rear fill. The front components are the ones that you want to shine and dominate the cabin.
So maybe swapping out the rears Kicker 47KSC504 to Kicker 43DSC504 which handles up to 50 watts RMS
Last edited by JackChesbro; Feb 26, 2023 at 03:38 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 21,136
Likes: 212
From: Long Island New York
Me I wanted it a bit louder then stock with really good quality and went with front components with 120w, rear coax with 90-100w and a 10” JL sub getting 400-450w.
If I were you I’d get better fronts( quality and power handling) which might necessitate a more powerful amp and make do with the stockers out back or better then stock quality pair of coax between 50-75. If you keep the stock rears to could just keep those powered with the stock amp and just get a better 2 channel for the fronts and an amp for the sub or a 4 channel for fronts and bridge 2 for the amp. Lots of ways to go, think about it and do some research and talk to others. Good luck, keep us informed.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 122
Likes: 39
From: Massachusetts
I think can turn into a bigger project than I initially thought just swapping out speakers. The more I read and research the more things I want to change. I might as well put some sound deadening in if I am running wires. I've also read some older threads on Subthump boxes. They have the partition style that uses to 8's and a down-fire box that can be either 2 10's or 2 12's. I suspect that the 10s will perform better than 8s, but I am not sure I want a bulky box in the back. I like the stealth JL box but at $1000 it's not worth it. But yeah this can get out of hand if I want it to.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 122
Likes: 39
From: Massachusetts
Has anyone installed a box from Subthump? How's the quality of the box? How does it sound? (the partition one 8's vs the down-fire 10s).
Last edited by JackChesbro; Mar 15, 2023 at 10:45 AM.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 18
Likes: 8
From: NE Ohio
I just bought the down-fire 10" box but I don't have anything installed yet. The enclosure seems to be good quality and the carpet matches well. I'm going to be running Sundown Audio SD-4 subs on a Down4Sound JP 13.2 AB amp. I'll throw the enclosure in my car and take some pics later today.
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 66
Likes: 7
From: Las Vegas
I have the Bose speakers in the lower door panel that have the attached amp. I plan to replace those with standard 6.5s. Do you know if the wiring has to be changed to run directly to the head unit (I have a Sony stereo) or once the Bose speakers/amps are removed, will the new speakers be full range?
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 66
Likes: 7
From: Las Vegas
I have two 8 inch subwoofers in the rear of my car and they definitely add to the sound. The door panel woofers seem to get lost in the engine/road noise. That 10" should sound nice but you would need a separate amp for it, and a subwoofer box to support it.