Thanks for all your help, You are correct, no way this can be done right without the interface.

 

No problem, glad to help.

 

I didn’t use any of that. I taped into the under hood fuse box for power and ran my own speaker wire. I had a sub and 2 amps mounted behind the front seats. There’s nothing special about the C6. At least not my last 13. It was a straight forward install. Now my C7…….

 

That's fine for your set up, but he wanted to retain the chimes, delayed exit etc. so yes, an interface is needed to do so, plus he's still running the stock amp and speakers, so an interface makes this so simpler to hook everything up, it's basically makes it plug and play.

 

You’re right. I forgot about that. I didn’t want any of those features. My C6 system was way over the top. My 19 C7 has been challenging. I’ve decided not to buy a C8 so I’m doing the audio. Little late, but better late than never. I’m still working on the highs. Can’t mess with the head unit. I’m actually installing an equalizer. Lol. Last one was in high school.

 

Looks like my story has not ended. Everything was great, until it wasn't. A couple of weeks after installation I took the car out, parked it, came back about 15 minutes later, started it up and no audio. And later I found no chimes, no RAP and the head unit stayed powered on when I opened the door. I have spoken with Radiopro tech support several times. The first guy I spoke with told me to power down then reconnect and that got the audio back but the data features were still gone.

The next guy said that if the battery voltage ever drops below 10.5V, like on startup it can damage the unit. We decided that I should send the failed interface back to Amazon and try another. I had a pretty long talk with this guy, he said that the comm systems with these GM cars, and not just Corvettes, are not robust and he has seen problems. He even went as far as to say if it was his car he would wire in an aftermarket head unit without the interface.

Today I received the replacement module but before installing it I checked the battery voltage on startup with a digital multimeter and I got a brief reading of 10.12V. I went ahead with the install and for now everything works, we'll see for how long. There was another conversation with a third tech support guy and he echoed a lot of stuff the second guy said. We got into more details about how to wire in the head unit without the interface module while still retaining the factory amp. I'll probably go that route if this one fails and live without the chimes and RAP.

 

I loved my C6 without the chimes and the audio staying on after the car was shut down. Wish I could do my C7 like that. My first PAC digital converter was bad. Brand new. It took days to figure that out. Everything had power, but no sound. I read it’s common for them not to work. I know it’s frustrating. Hang in there.

 

With the audio staying on after shutting the car off, didn't you have a battery drain? Maybe you had that low voltage issue? The chimes I can certainly live without, and even the RAP but I think I am liking the power amplifier although I realize that many think it is crap.

I had about a 20 minute conversation with the third tech today, he covered a whole bunch of issues that could come up and told me to call back and ask for him as I sort this out, even if I go without their module. At the moment I am using the power amp I'm really happy with the sound. If the module is not an option then I'll see how the head unit sounds without it and if it's not as good then I'll try wiring the amp in without the module as he mentioned.

Thanks...

 

You're still using the stock amp correct ?

 

Yes stock amp. Label says Delphi but fwiw the Radiopro guy says it is a Bose.

Here is a question for you . Even though the RAP appears to be working and the head unit powers down when I open the door, if I push the power button on the head unit, it comes back on even though the ignition is off and Accessory is not pushed. Does that sound right? And my battery seems to be losing some charge, I had a trickle charger on it, it was a little over 12.5 volts and after a few days sitting it lost more than .25 volts

 

Humm, that's weird, with the ignition and the accessory off, the radio shouldn't be coming on.

 

The HU should have both 12v+ battery power and 12v+ ACC power input wires. It sounds like both power inputs are 12v+ battery power.

 

Right, the wiring was pretty straightforward. On the Continental head unit the yellow is switched and the red is constant, opposite what is typically the case but it is possible that I messed up.

I'm going to check that tomorrow before calling Radiopro again.

 

On most systems the Yellow is constant +12V, and the Red is switched +12V. I can't see the Continental being any different, but I could be wrong.

 

Not sure which specific radio you have but the way I see it is that A4 should be the switched +12V and the A7 should be the constant +12V. You're right, their instructions suck.

 

Another one of their diagrams, in this case A4 (Red) is switched +12V and A7 (Yellow) should be constant +12V


I believe it was in 1995 when all aftermarket stereo wiring was standardized, so all manufacturers should be using the same colors in their wiring for all connections.

 

I wrote in the wire colors when I installed it: I remember reading a comment on a Youtube video where some guy mentioned that they were opposite, sheez could the diagram be wrong? I'll check it again but doesn't look like I'll get to this today, it's going to rain all day and the Jag does not go out of the garage on days like this...

 

Yeah, it looks to me by your drawing that you have the Yellow and Red reversed, Red should be ignition, and Yellow should be Battery +

 

Well I'm pretty sure I matched the colors to the pins correctly. It does bother me that the second photo you posted shows something different. If the manual or the pin wiring is in error I don't think there is any way to verify that, when I started this whole thing I tried to contact Continental a couple of times to check compatibility and never got a response.

Is there a downside to switching the red and yellow wires to see what happens?

 

Switching the Red and Yellow wires shouldn't be an issue, they're both a 12V+ signal, the only difference is one is switched 12v+ and the other is constant 12V+ which maintains the decks settings and clock when the car's not running. Continental is not known to be a quality brand like Pioneer, Kenwood, etc. so it's hard to say what they're doing with their wiring.