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Basically the difference between them is that you can also connect the VS41 Four Camera Switcher to the GM1A-RST, where you can’t do this with the RP5-GM11. The VS41 allows you to have cameras come on automatically if you have side view cameras for example when you turn on your turn signals. It can also be set to active a front camera when you fo less than 3 mph which can be handy when pulling up to backing blocks, the GM1A is also up-dateable via a USB cable, the older RP5’s required and additional module called the PACUP to do this, but they’ve since came out it a newer version of the RP5, where you don’t need the PACUP any more, and can be up-dated with a just USB cable now. I’ve had both interfaces in my Vette and the VS41 with the GM1A connected to the front camera, and it was nice at fist, but gat a little old with it switching to the front camera at stop lights, stop signs etc., so I ended up pulling the VS41 out of mine and an am just running the GM1A right now. Keep in mind these interfaces are made for a wide range of different cars, so they work in, but are not specific to the Vette, I could see where if you had a car with side mirror cameras etc. the GM1A combined with the VS41 could be a real nice feature to have, but not so much with the Vette, unless you plan on adding side cameras also. So if you’re not the RP5-GM11 will work just fine for you. I will say the RP5-GM11 is the most commonly used one on the forum, the only reason I also bought the GM1A is because I came across one real cheap ($10) so I thought I’d give it and the VS41 a try.
Basically the difference between them is that you can also connect the VS41 Four Camera Switcher to the GM1A-RST, where you can’t do this with the RP5-GM11. The VS41 allows you to have cameras come on automatically if you have side view cameras for example when you turn on your turn signals. It can also be set to active a front camera when you fo less than 3 mph which can be handy when pulling up to backing blocks, the GM1A is also up-dateable via a USB cable, the older RP5’s required and additional module called the PACUP to do this, but they’ve since came out it a newer version of the RP5, where you don’t need the PACUP any more, and can be up-dated with a just USB cable now. I’ve had both interfaces in my Vette and the VS41 with the GM1A connected to the front camera, and it was nice at fist, but gat a little old with it switching to the front camera at stop lights, stop signs etc., so I ended up pulling the VS41 out of mine and an am just running the GM1A right now. Keep in mind these interfaces are made for a wide range of different cars, so they work in, but are not specific to the Vette, I could see where if you had a car with side mirror cameras etc. the GM1A combined with the VS41 could be a real nice feature to have, but not so much with the Vette, unless you plan on adding side cameras also. So if you’re not the RP5-GM11 will work just fine for you. I will say the RP5-GM11 is the most commonly used one on the forum, the only reason I also bought the GM1A is because I came across one real cheap ($10) so I thought I’d give it and the VS41 a try.
Thank You for that explanation. I do want to do front and rear cameras. A front camera for those pesky parking blocks you mentioned. No interest in side cameras. Would you still do the RP5-GM11 in that situation?
Thank You for that explanation. I do want to do front and rear cameras. A front camera for those pesky parking blocks you mentioned. No interest in side cameras. Would you still do the RP5-GM11 in that situation?
Yes I think so, like I mentioned at first the automatic switching to the front camera from the VS41 was kind of nice, but after a while it got a little annoying because it came on every time I slowed down to less than 3 mph, which driving around town is often with stop lights/signs etc., so I ended up removing the VS41, but I’m still running the GM1A which without the VS41, which is basically the same as the RP5. I did consider possibly adding side cameras to my Vette, but I decided against it because I didn’t want to drill holes in my mirrors to mount the cameras, and run the wires, but I could see where they’d come in handy also. With the RP5 you can still run front and rear cameras assuming you get a head unit capable of two camera operation, you’d just have to turn the front camera on manually at the head unit to view it. Besides that the RP5 is cheaper, with the GM1A, if you wanted the automatic switching feature, you’d also have the additional cost of the VS41.
Yes I think so, like I mentioned at first the automatic switching to the front camera from the VS41 was kind of nice, but after a while it got a little annoying because it came on every time I slowed down to less than 3 mph, which driving around town is often with stop lights/signs etc., so I ended up removing the VS41, but I’m still running the GM1A which without the VS41 is basically the same as the RP5. With the RP5 you can still run front and rear cameras assuming you get a head unit capable of two camera operation, you’d just have to turn the front camera on manually at the head unit. Besides that the RP5 is cheaper, with the GM1A, if you wanted the automatic switching feature, you’d also have the additional cost of the VS41.
Currently I have a 2005 bose optioned with the GM11 and a Kenwood HU. It's working great though only did a rear camera. An interesting experiment I did was since I was adding a subwoofer I ran new speaker wire from the HU to upgraded Kicker KS speakers in the rear. Wow big sound difference in quality and volume. I had to set the fader four ticks to the front to balance it back out.
Currently I have a 2005 bose optioned with the GM11 and
a Kenwood HU. It's working great though only did a rear camera. An interesting experiment I did was since I was adding a subwoofer I ran new speaker wire from the HU to upgraded Kicker KS speakers in the rear. Wow big sound difference in quality and volume. I had to set the fader four ticks to the front to balance it back out.
Yep adding a subwoofer can make a big difference. I have a vert and wanted a sub that wouldn’t get muffled with the top down, and take up trunk space, so I designed and built a duel 8” behind the seat sub box that fits in the place that the rear speakers were in, that I’m running Kicker Solo-barics in tied to a Kicker sub amp. They sound great either with the top up or down. Here’s a couple photo’s of my box.