Group project building a C5 sub box
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Group project building a C5 sub box
This is going to be a group project. We are going to try to design the "ultimate" sub box enclosure. We will need to come up with an appropriate sub or maybe a couple. Hopefully, they can be easily found at the local stereo suppliers. Any box we make is going to be limited in size because of the car. Volume of the box is an important part of the design so the sub will have to be picked out based on what we can build. Here's a start. I like the idea of using the "shorter" box because I want to be able to close up the lid and use the trunk without worring about the speaker. If we need to add a fiberglass bottom, then we'll do it.
Here are some dimensions I came up with for a sub box that will fit into the large storage area in the trunk. It can be made with a little more than a 2 foot x 4 foot single sheet of medium density particle board.
The volume can be increased by adding a fiberglass bottom formed to the trunk. If any forum members have tips on how to do this add your .02 :thumbs:
You can easily adjust the height. The box will fit exactly flush with the floor level of the trunk if the 6 1/2" dimension and the 1 3/8" dimension is increased by 1". If the 6 1/2" and 1 3/8" dimensions are used the box will fit under the cover with the lid on. You'll have to be aware of speaker height. If the carpeting is removed it will sit low enough to fit under the storage lid using the taller dimensions. I did have to put a couple of cuts into the bottom corners of the carpet in the storage area.
These are the dimensions I used for the shorter box. I made the box 21 1/2" long.
(I don't know what the code is supposed to look like to make this picture "enlargeable", help)
http://www.flamingpaperbag.com/subbox/subbox1.jpg
Here are the first cuts. I cut off a 7 1/2" piece of the 24" x 48" sheet and laid out the ends. Use a 6 1/2" piece and lay out with 1 3/8" dimension for a shorter box.
End pieces finished. These are for a taller box.
Cut off a 9" piece for the bottom, a 15 3/4" piece for the top. Cut the back piece to whatever dimension you cut the side pieces.
I set one of the end pieces up to help me set up the angle on my radial arm saw.
I cut the shorter piece first. The 1 3/8" (or 2 3/8" for taller box) dimension is the shorter part of the angled cut. You will have to do a little calculating to make the cut (I figured at adding 13/16" to the dimension you used to come up with a top dimension).
I put the short piece in place, measured out to the tip and cut the angled bottom piece. I used 8 1/2" from tip to tip.
Here's a "short" box with a couple of the boards colored in.
Here's the "tall" box.
Use glue to hold the box together, screws are there just to hold it together while the glue dries. You will need to cut a small piece to seal up the front tip also.
I calculate the volume of the box at 7.5 X 5.125 x 20" (inside dimension) = 768.75 cubic inches / 2 = 384.375 cubic inches for the "tip" +
6.5 X 7.5 X 20 = 975 cubic inches for the "box" part. (use 1,125 cubic inches for tall box)
384 + 975 = 1,359 "short" box cubic inches = .786 cubic feet
384 + 1,125 = 1,509 "tall" box cubic inches = .873 cubic feet
Are we going to need to add some fiberglass?
Which subs and wattage are we going to use? So let's get some input. :thumbs: :flag
Why there's a poll below is beyond me, it's supposed to be my sig.
[Modified by vrumvrum, 8:10 AM 2/20/2003]
Here are some dimensions I came up with for a sub box that will fit into the large storage area in the trunk. It can be made with a little more than a 2 foot x 4 foot single sheet of medium density particle board.
The volume can be increased by adding a fiberglass bottom formed to the trunk. If any forum members have tips on how to do this add your .02 :thumbs:
You can easily adjust the height. The box will fit exactly flush with the floor level of the trunk if the 6 1/2" dimension and the 1 3/8" dimension is increased by 1". If the 6 1/2" and 1 3/8" dimensions are used the box will fit under the cover with the lid on. You'll have to be aware of speaker height. If the carpeting is removed it will sit low enough to fit under the storage lid using the taller dimensions. I did have to put a couple of cuts into the bottom corners of the carpet in the storage area.
These are the dimensions I used for the shorter box. I made the box 21 1/2" long.
(I don't know what the code is supposed to look like to make this picture "enlargeable", help)
http://www.flamingpaperbag.com/subbox/subbox1.jpg
Here are the first cuts. I cut off a 7 1/2" piece of the 24" x 48" sheet and laid out the ends. Use a 6 1/2" piece and lay out with 1 3/8" dimension for a shorter box.
End pieces finished. These are for a taller box.
Cut off a 9" piece for the bottom, a 15 3/4" piece for the top. Cut the back piece to whatever dimension you cut the side pieces.
I set one of the end pieces up to help me set up the angle on my radial arm saw.
I cut the shorter piece first. The 1 3/8" (or 2 3/8" for taller box) dimension is the shorter part of the angled cut. You will have to do a little calculating to make the cut (I figured at adding 13/16" to the dimension you used to come up with a top dimension).
I put the short piece in place, measured out to the tip and cut the angled bottom piece. I used 8 1/2" from tip to tip.
Here's a "short" box with a couple of the boards colored in.
Here's the "tall" box.
Use glue to hold the box together, screws are there just to hold it together while the glue dries. You will need to cut a small piece to seal up the front tip also.
I calculate the volume of the box at 7.5 X 5.125 x 20" (inside dimension) = 768.75 cubic inches / 2 = 384.375 cubic inches for the "tip" +
6.5 X 7.5 X 20 = 975 cubic inches for the "box" part. (use 1,125 cubic inches for tall box)
384 + 975 = 1,359 "short" box cubic inches = .786 cubic feet
384 + 1,125 = 1,509 "tall" box cubic inches = .873 cubic feet
Are we going to need to add some fiberglass?
Which subs and wattage are we going to use? So let's get some input. :thumbs: :flag
Why there's a poll below is beyond me, it's supposed to be my sig.
[Modified by vrumvrum, 8:10 AM 2/20/2003]
#2
Safety Car
Re: Group project building a C5 sub box (vrumvrum)
Just one question, how come your not recessing into the well? I agree all wood is the easiest approach, but there is a slightly substantial volume increase by going with fiberglass/wood mix. :chevy
#3
Racer
Re: Group project building a C5 sub box (vrumvrum)
Combining your info. with this thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=443985
even I should be able to make one.
Thanks for taking the time to do this. And thanks to MRKLN also.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=443985
even I should be able to make one.
Thanks for taking the time to do this. And thanks to MRKLN also.
#5
Race Director
Re: Group project building a C5 sub box (vrumvrum)
Why are you using particle board?.......MDF is king for sound quality and structure. I agree it may save on some weight...........but yes you guessed it......they make ultralight MDF too.......scrap the particle crap and build it out of mdf. You won't be disappointed......jmho
Kitt
Kitt
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
Re: Group project building a C5 sub box (JoeyG)
Just one question, how come your not recessing into the well? I agree all wood is the easiest approach, but there is a slightly substantial volume increase by going with fiberglass/wood mix. :chevy
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=443985
I used particle board for these pics because I didn't know any better. I bought a premade box from a local car stereo shop $50 :banghead: and it was made out of particle board. We'll build a new one out of MDF. Only takes about 20 minutes to cut it up.
Are there any subs available for the box we have made so far for members that might not want to add fiberglass? How about stuffing the box with rock wool.
I am still waiting for an expert to pick out a sub that will match the volume we will achieve after we add the fiberglass bottom. JLW3?
Can you have too much volume in the box?
We are building this box so no other members will make the mistakes I have already made. They will have the tools, learned from the experts, to build their own sub box that will make ANY 18 year old perk up his/her ears like a deer that hears a rustle in the forest. :lol: :D
#8
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jul 2000
Location: Joplin MO
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Re: Group project building a C5 sub box (vrumvrum)
There is no problem with merging the threads together. I posted my write up on the IDMAX box for everyone to see and gain knowledge from.
Just a side note, you can also use 3/4" birch to further reduce the weight of the box. :yesnod:
Just a side note, you can also use 3/4" birch to further reduce the weight of the box. :yesnod:
#9
Re: Group project building a C5 sub box (vrumvrum)
Your box project came at a perfect time. I am hoping to get the CDT MS 100 10" sub. It calls for .45 - .90 cubic ft. I think this box should work well for it. Any idea what the angle was for the cuts? Do I need to add stuffing for it? Thanks
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
Re: Group project building a C5 sub box (Kev99)
The angle calculates out to 34.346 degrees. That's what I also set the radial arm angle at. Maybe one of the other members can offer an opinion on the stuffing, but I think it is probably subjective, try it with and without and hear what you like best. :cheers:
#11
Re: Group project building a C5 sub box (vrumvrum)
Thanks, I just ordered my Sub (CDT MS 100)last night. Hopefully I will get to build the box real soon. All my tools are at my dad's house so I will have to go to San Antonio. I also bought the CDT CL 61 components to go with them. Hopefully it should sound great.