I finally blew out my rear speakers, and decided that since they are out of the car and I have decided I like having no rear speakers, I pulled the amp for them out too.

It is a Frontier FRS-200, which I guess is supposed to be 50 watts rms x2. Funny thing is, the Bluapunkt 6x9s it was running handle 90 watts rms...and no I wasn't clipping the amp at all. Anyway, since it is obviously putting out way more power than it should, I thought, hey, this will make a great sub amp for my dad's car for fathers day if I can bridge it.

So here I am, on my quest to bridge the amp. However, it is not bridgeable from the factory...so anyone know how I can do it? I know how to use a soldering iron and have already replaced the power supply transistors on this amp (maybe why it makes more power?).

If it isn't possible to bridge it I guess I will just get a dvc woofer.

:cheers:

 

C'mon guys, I know some of you have rigged something like this before, haven't you?

 

If the amp is designed to be bridged, just use the positive from one of the pairs on the amp and the negative from the other.

 

he knows how to bridge an amp...

read the post... it's NOT bridgable....

 

Got ya :rolleyes: my bad.

Ok, rather than bridge internally, put a jumper between the other terminals. I have never done it, but it makes sense to me. As long as the amp is fused properly, that should go before any real damage. As I said, I'm not sure about this, so don't freak out if you smoke the amp.

 

Oh yeah, I'm gonna try that. :nono:

I need some real advice please...not some "I think it will work" kinda stuff.

Does anyone know how to build an op-amp that will invert the signal 180 degrees for the second channel? Schematics and/or a picture would help greatly. :cheers:

 

Hey dude, only trying to help. Try doing some research on the net or call the manufacturer if you can't find the answer here.
You know, it's kinda rude to ask a question, then insult the person who doesn't give you the answer you want.

 

It isn't smart to just throw out answers from your *** either. I was asking for help from someone who knew what they were talking about. That's one thing that really bugs me is when people just answer a question in a way that could possibly ruin stuff or start a fire. Endangering other people with bad advice is just bad policy.


Sorry if I come off a little harsh, but one of my old friends ended up getting his trunk burned to a crisp from advice from someone who shouldn't have been giving it out. :mad

Anyway, I got the answer that I needed from caraudioforum.com. :seeya

Thanks anyway. :cheers:

 

The answer didn't come from my ***, as you put it. It was based on deductive reasoning and from having a backround in electronics. It's up to you to use your own judgment.
You'll find that not everything is as cut and dry as you would like. Anyway, now that you know the answer, how about sharing it with the rest of us? Since, no one seemed to be able to answer your question here, we could all benefit.

 

no kidding whats the answer dippoopie

 

This is what I got from the other forum.
Again, sorry if I sounded like a moron or whatever but I hate bad info. As said before one of my friends had his car ruined by advice like that.

You need to see if the amplifier is already
a non-bridged design. Some amplifers
have bridged channels inside, some
don't.

I would check the speaker terminals
of both amplfiier channels to see
where they lead inside. Follow the traces,
if one terminal of *each* channel
goes to power supply ground, then
it's not bridged inside.

One of the speaker terminals should
lead you to the amplifier output stage
(not grounded), the other terminal
should lead to ground. (not +12v input
ground, there are usually two grounds
on a good amplifier design, the second
ground I speak of is inside and used
for -speaker output.)

Cheap amps might have -speaker = power input ground.

If both connects on one channel of the
speaker terminal leads to some type of
transistor output stage (via resistors),
then it's already bridged. Can't re-bridge it again.

Step 2 is to make a bridging module
(if the amplifiers is not differential input).
http://sound.westhost.com/project14.htm
http://sound.westhost.com/project20.htm

:cheers:

EDIT: Forgot to switch to my ID. :lol:


[Modified by wickedvette, 11:10 AM 6/9/2003]