I'm pretty much over the idea of changing tires for every SCCA Solo Event so now I'm thinking of a car trailer. The idea of a tire trailer on the vette doesn't help with the work and the possible scenario of breaking the car and being stranded. My tow vehicle is a Dakota QuadCab V8 with a 6500# rating.

I currently drive a '89 C4 so it's not to terribly low as I run AS, but a Z06 may be in the future so I want a trailer that will be flexible. Here are some of my questions.

Standard? Dovetail? Tilt? What can I expect. What's recommended?
Aluminum over Steel? Weight difference is that a help in towing?
Winch on an open trailer to pull the car on? Removable fenders?

Any help is appreciated.

 

Your going to get as many opinions as replies on this question.
You know what they say about "Opinions"!

Here is mine: First, this is a good web link for all the trailer manufacturers out there:

Trailer Manufacturers

Do your research to see what YOU want in a trailer.

With only a 6500# trailer rating on your tow vehicle, you should stay with an open trailer. Go 18' minimum in length (you'll be glad you did later) depending on your budget, aluminum would be awesome, but expensive. Cheapest is a basic steel tandem axle car hauler with a dovetail and wood floor and pull out ramps. Prices start around $1,200 and go up from there quickley.

I went with a low cost 18' two brake 3500# axles wood deck trailer shown in link below for around $1,600 and have been satisfied for 4 years and a lot of miles.
Example of LOW-COST Trailer

Some like a tread plate steel deck, some like an open center section, some like all-aluminum, some want only an enclosed trailer. Choice is yours. Depends on your budget as well.

You will need to modify any ramps you get, make new ones, or use wood sections to raise front air dam up to get up onto ramps. Z06's sit awfully low at the air dam.
Winches? I don't use one, but carry a "come-along" and 20' of chain, and a tow strap, just in case I need to get a disabled car onto the trailer.

For a smaller tow vehicle, having two "brake" axles would be a good investment instead of the standard one brake axle. Cost about $175 more, but well worth it.

Good luck!

 

I borrowed a friend's last weekend, as I had sold my old trailer with the race car last spring. The trailer I borrowed (and am using to tow the Z06 to Nationals) is a Sloan Kwik-Load rollback and I really liked it. Not sure of the cost, but the convenience factor was high and my lowered Z06 was a straight drive on proposition, no ramps or other stuff needed. It also towed like a champ behind my Z71 Suburban with no weight distributing hitch...not as nice as the Featherlite, but probably a bunch cheaper!
http://www.kwikload.com/

 

Don't forget with the open trailer, how are you getting out of the car once its loaded? Removable fenderwell aids greatly. With the Z-28, have to take t-top off, climb out, put t-top back on, open door 3" and latch and close door. It sucks! Don't even want to mention ramp angles! Another trick is to get Rhino ramps, drive the wheels of trailer on them, lessens the angle by lowering the back. Good luck

 

Brakes on both axles for sure with a 6500 lb tow vehicle rating you need it even more. Removable fenders. I have a H&H tilt.

 

NASCAR#!$ - Go 18' minimum in length (you'll be glad you did later)

What is the thought on the 18' trailer?

I was thinking if I can get a 16, the overall length would be about 20-21' and could fit inside my garage, as well as it might be a little lighter to help towing. My tow vehicle is a pickup so I can put tools, etc. in there if needed.

 

Mine is 22' deck



I think 18 would be the minimum

 

This is what I use with a wind farring and a spare tire. I love it. 18 ft. FWIW

 

Another thing I like about the Sloan Kwik-Load is that you can drive the car on, set the ebrake, put up the windows, get out of the car and then pull the ramp forward...no hassles with removing fenders, remote window controls etc.

 

I agree with all here that the Kwik-Load type trailer must be much easier to deal with thatn the other types of trailers. I'd like to hear from anyone that has used a "tilt" style trailer. I don't know how huch help they would be over the ramp type? I would think the fenders might still be a problem for vettes being so low. Also the angle might be too steep to drive on with low air dams.

 

Sloan Kwik-Load
Right on the money and it does have brakes on all 4 wheels. 18" is plenty of trailer.

I know where 2 more brand new ones are for $2850 each in Bristol, VA.... I just bought one of them.

Cirrent price is $3250 FOB Texas ..... about $4, 000 from an east coast dealer.

I just built my rack and it works great.

 

Another way around this (which we used on our toyota Celica GT when we trailered it on an open trailer) was to have an aftermarket alarm installed. it had no siren and was not connected to anything but power and the windows controls. It didn't affect the stock system. This allowed me to roll up or roll down the windows remotely. If you rolled up the windows with the remote the next time you started the car there would be the clicking sound of a relay with that second alarm being triggered. Just hit the button on the remote and it stopped. This makes it possible to open the door just a smidge with the window down and get out without hitting the trailer with the door (I would recommend putting some sort of padding on the trailer in case your hand slips on the door.) Not as nice as being able to just get out with the door all the way open but better than crawling out the hatch.

If you just need a winch for break down emergencies then get one of the 12 volt $50 ones from harbor freight. They are noisy and not that well made but they work great for emergencies.

If you are going to get a good winch then just get out of the car and pull it on each time and save the hassle of getting out. We have an enclosed trailer now with no driver escape door on the side so we have been using a winch with the celica (and will continue with the z06) to just pull it in. So much cleaner and quicker.

 

where?

 

One other thing I would add with the Kwik-Load is that the rollers require care and attention...I believe they are kind of marginal for the application. Still, great design well suited for our cars

 

I'm going to guess that the rollers need some type of regular lubrication to keep them functioning well. Can't be as bad a boat trailers I've had in the salt water of Florida.

Rex_I, where are these other two. I'm tring to find a dealer near Atlanta and no luck yet.

 

When I bought mine I called the manufacturer in Texas and found out who was putting a load together in the area. Then I called that distributer and told them that I heard they were putting a load together and would they be willing to give me a good price on one of the five that they had to order to make the load. That way I could get exactly what I wanted and at a great price. They knocked about $1200 off the price and were happy to have another one pre-sold.

 

NASCAR314 is a wise man, heed his advice. Do consider an aluminum trailer - even with minimum weight, given your tow capacity, you'll be marginal with a steel trailer once you add tires/tools/etc. to a 3,200+ pound car.

Brakes on both axles is an absolute must. Some type of front screen/rock deflector is a must to prevent rock chips/etc. Some kind of tire rack, such as shown in pics, is a must for rain tires, etc. - you get the idea, you're at max weight before you know it.

As already stated, you'll get as many opinions as responses on trailers. My advice is simply this - don't scrimp on the trailer or hitch. Buy more capacity than you think you'll ever need. At some point you'll be really, really glad you did.

 

Well it appears that the best combination would be an aluminum Kwik-Load style trailer. Don't know that these are being made, but that puts the best of style and material together. Easier to load and easier to tow!

 

Trailers were changed about 5 years ago and the rollers are now steel with a grease zerk ... about maintenance free.

These guys bought 6 of them wanting to be a dealer then just parked them at his sheet metal shop. They are in Bristol, VA/TN.
Jim Embree (insurance office) 423-968-5550 or
Jim Kite -- 423-340-1495

I paid $2,800 about 6 months ago. I think the others, if still available, can be had for $2,850 ea. It cost me about $750 to build the tire rack and weld on 8 additional ¼” D rings.

I painted a white mark at the center point of the trailer, left edge. Drive car on, open door and look for line on my car where I want to center it. Stop set brake, etc. and get out of the car. Pull trailer back up and then secure the car. It is not necessary to remove the fender to load or to unload the car. But, the fender is removable if you have a need.

You can also call the 800 at the factory and Dean will give you the name of a dealer close to you. The other one I know of is Cams NC and he usually has 18’s and 20’s in stock. About 6-7 hours from Atlanta to either. He is a good guy and has a good website: http://www.camsnc.com/

TedDBere is the one who put me on to the Sloan trailer and it was great advice! I can load/unload the car in minutes and be on my way.

 

I've never seen one of those, I have seen tilt trailers in use. But not like that. Seems like a slick way to load and un-load.

Question: How well do they work in the rain on slick tires? Just Courious?

I did the flat deck w/dovetail so I could use it for other things as well, hauling appliances, lumber, Four-wheelers, help people move, whatever. And if I decide to sell someday....., it has appeal to more potential buyers than just a "car hauler". My ramps are coated with expanded metal screen for "wet" traction, never had a problem yet.

On a flat deck, you can install a strip of plywood or other material in the wheel path to raise the hieght of the doors so they can be openned over the fender without hitting it. I used 16" wide strip of 3/4" treated plywood to gain clearance, it works with my lowered C4 just fine. Gives me full access.

Some flat decks, especially those with 5,200# axles, have fenders too high to open doors. Check before you buy.

The 18' length allows addition of a tire rack / stone gaurd up front without affecting car position on the trailer. I have added one of these myshelf and it has worked great.