Engine Suggestions - Poll




Car is used recreationally on the street. Plan on doing some autocross (fun only) and track days.
Current LS6 engine is about 450 rwhp and 405 rwtq.
The new build I want to go with:
-4.125" bore (either resleeved LS2 - Katech shortblock or a Warhawk - Katech shortblock).
-12:1 Katech LS7 Pistons
-Ported LS7 heads and intake.
-Kooks 1 7/8" headers
4.00 stroke x 4.125 bore = 427
3.62xx stroke x 4.125 bore = 387
3.27xx stroke x 4.125 bore = 350
With the 3.27 stroke I can spin it to 8000 RPM - with the proper (light) valvetrain. Best to have a dry sump - I would lose my AC though. I won't give up the AC ..so, wet sump and I'll sacrifice HP at the top end.
Should be about 550 crank HP.
With the 3.62 or 4.00 stroke I can spin it safely to 7000 RPM. Crank HP should be in the 575 - 625 range, respectively. A bunch more torque than 3.27 stroke.
My question is which stroke would you go with??
Thanks for any and all suggestions!


Last edited by John Shiels; Oct 16, 2006 at 08:59 PM.




From Katech thread:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Katech
add $1000
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bink
Katech "Value 427" short block with Katech forged LS7 pistons, hardcoat anodized................................ ..$7230
Billet main Caps.........................$1000.
*********************Total $8230
Add $1000 and I have ******$9230
Value Sneak Attack 347
__________________
Here's a link to the thread on LS1Tech -> Jason from Katech on the 'Value' shortblocks.
Pricing on Katech's Warhawk blocks isn't up yet. --->http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...1&page=4&pp=20
I figure the 427 completed Longblock with LS7 heads, LS7 Intake, cam, Timing set etc. about $14,000. The 350 "Sneak Attack add $1000.
Might be better off going with a new LS7 and have Katech rebush the wrist pins and replace the OEM pistons with their 12:1 forged slugs. SDPC has all the accessory LS7 dry sump parts available. I don't remember...does the LS7 have Billet main caps oem??
.....




Here's a link to the Value 427 with 3 different cams.
-->>>http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=571369
I think a shorter stroke will mean less torque for a given rpm, setup and cam.




Lingenfelter 100 mm MAF.
Hopefully I can get my hands on a Nick Williams' 100 mm TB.


Lingenfelter 100 mm MAF.
Hopefully I can get my hands on a Nick Williams' 100 mm TB.
Ported LS7 with what heads on a 350 what will fit?
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Talk to Jason. I think with an 8000 rpm range you may need a custom made intake manfold.
The LSx and FAST manifolds are really good for 4800 rpm tq max and 6300 rpm HP max, so any thing above 6500 may be waisted.
Just my thoughts
Randy
What's the engine life of an engine that has to turn high RPM's vs one that turns less to develope power?
torque =
would look for a nice fat torque curve , desktop dyno pro , did a really good job predicting my numbers when i rebuilt the engine,. you could play with lots of variables. and see the effects. including things like changing degree of camshaft
Higher revs also mean running the gearbox at more revs - lower final drive - to get the poewr output at the wheelsm, which means more temp. to control there.
I'd suggest a crate LS7 - the keep popping up at around $13k. That gives the lighter rotating assembly (Ti rods) than the katech 427, and a lighter Ti valvetrain. Change cams, and play in the mid 500 rwhp range, with a functional dry sump setup and AC. Port the heads later when that feels weak, change cams, and get over 600rwhp.
The lighter assembly will accelerate faster, regardless of dyno output. The LS7 rods weigh approx. half of what after market steel rods do. You are saving 400g per rod, 3200g total - that's 7lbs of rotating assembly!
Additionally he forgot to mention that his car has a 4.10 rear gear ratio in it already......If you are going to go with large stroke crank and less RPM you better be changing that at the same time.




Talk to Jason. I think with an 8000 rpm range you may need a custom made intake manfold.
The LSx and FAST manifolds are really good for 4800 rpm tq max and 6300 rpm HP max, so any thing above 6500 may be waisted.
If the LS7 intake and 90 mm TB will support 7000 then I think 100mm TB and ported LS7 Intake might push 8000 rpm.
If the LS7 intake and 90 mm TB will support 7000 then I think 100mm TB and ported LS7 Intake might push 8000 rpm.
I would not guess. I would ask someone. Dont want to waist time and money on a build that will not be optimal.
Higher revs also mean running the gearbox at more revs - lower final drive - to get the poewr output at the wheelsm, which means more temp. to control there.
I'd suggest a crate LS7 - the keep popping up at around $13k. That gives the lighter rotating assembly (Ti rods) than the katech 427, and a lighter Ti valvetrain. Change cams, and play in the mid 500 rwhp range, with a functional dry sump setup and AC. Port the heads later when that feels weak, change cams, and get over 600rwhp.
The lighter assembly will accelerate faster, regardless of dyno output. The LS7 rods weigh approx. half of what after market steel rods do. You are saving 400g per rod, 3200g total - that's 7lbs of rotating assembly!
reduces longevity!
At 13 large.... the technology included with the crate LS7 is tough to beat.
Katech and SDPC will build you a sweet setup... I know SDPC was advertising wet sump LS7 builds for under $14,000 w/ everything you need for a running/functioning motor.
I agree that LS7 w/ a cam would be the way to go so long as you can find a cost effective way to run the motor... shoot my buddy Rich's z06 makes 490 w/ an air filter, headers w/ cats, and a corsa catback.
It's fast... very fast.
reduces longevity!
At 13 large.... the technology included with the crate LS7 is tough to beat.
An Katech LS2 427ci build up with high end parts, about 12-13G depeding on what one needs.
The Katech LS2 block is much stronger the the LS7 block and far better oiling. Note: Katech LS2 not GM LS2 block
Personally I dont think I want an LS7 at all, espeically for anything beyond DEs.












