crossweighting question
08-01-2007, 03:47 PM
#1
Heel & Toe
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crossweighting question
i am looking at crossweighting my c5 z06. I am autocrossing it in SCCA stock class and can only change out the endlinks on the front. I know everyone says to use adjustable endlinks so that you can disconnect them and remove preload. So, what methodology would you use if you only had adjustable end links on the front.
Thanks for any help.
-Greg
Thanks for any help.
-Greg
08-01-2007, 04:15 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
Like the rules say, you can only adjust the front end links, so that's all you can do...
The best thing would be to set the weights with both sway bars disconnected, see if the rear has a lot of preload, (that is the bolts slip in easily to reconnect the bar) connect the rear and then tweak the front to get it right, then attach the front bar, but I don't know many folks that do it that way.
Most just disconnect the front end links, corner weight the car, reconnect the front end links with no preload... If there isn't much preload in the rear bar you are ok..
If you want less noise, lots of folks just put one adjustable end link on the car (pick a front side). The stock links are more quiet than the adjustable ones...
enjoy...
The best thing would be to set the weights with both sway bars disconnected, see if the rear has a lot of preload, (that is the bolts slip in easily to reconnect the bar) connect the rear and then tweak the front to get it right, then attach the front bar, but I don't know many folks that do it that way.
Most just disconnect the front end links, corner weight the car, reconnect the front end links with no preload... If there isn't much preload in the rear bar you are ok..
If you want less noise, lots of folks just put one adjustable end link on the car (pick a front side). The stock links are more quiet than the adjustable ones...
enjoy...
08-01-2007, 06:31 PM
#3
Race Director
a couple of things to consider. The bars are capable of self-adjusting themself by sliding side-to-side. If they go too far, they can hit the control arm, but a little mis-alignment at setup will self correct over time.
The other option is to adjust the ride heigh to correct the rear bars, not the other way around. In other words, if you set the weights perfectly by adjusting everything by the scales, then find the rear bars are a little off, you can always adjust the rear ride height a bit to compensate. Then do the exact opposite in the diagonal front corner to re-balance the weights. A tiny ride height change may help the bars more than it throws off the actual static ride height.
You may also want to have couple of stockers, in different styles around. You may find that by mixing the C5 plastic, aluminum and steel adjusters, the lengths may vary slightly. This may or may not be legal if parts must be year-specific
The other option is to adjust the ride heigh to correct the rear bars, not the other way around. In other words, if you set the weights perfectly by adjusting everything by the scales, then find the rear bars are a little off, you can always adjust the rear ride height a bit to compensate. Then do the exact opposite in the diagonal front corner to re-balance the weights. A tiny ride height change may help the bars more than it throws off the actual static ride height.
You may also want to have couple of stockers, in different styles around. You may find that by mixing the C5 plastic, aluminum and steel adjusters, the lengths may vary slightly. This may or may not be legal if parts must be year-specific