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Sorry should be in the racing-autox section. Perhaps a mod can move it.
Happy new year everyone.
I recently bought a complete diff-trans cooler set up from a fellow forum member complete with all the lines, brackets, screws etc. I'm test fitting everything up this weekend to see how it all lines up and if all the parts are there. I don't have directions.
Everything seems OK but ...Here's the question: I assume I have to get behind the frame to put nuts on the bolts that hold my pumps to the frame see pic below ....
What's the best way to access the rear of the pump support bolts.
Thanks Brian.
Last edited by Tourmgr1; Dec 29, 2007 at 11:33 PM.
I recently bought a complete diff-trans cooler set up from a fellow forum member complete with all the lines, brackets, screws etc. I'm test fitting everything up this weekend to see how it all lines up and if all the parts are there. I don't have directions.
Everything seems OK but ...Here's the question: I assume I have to get behind the frame to put nuts on the bolts that hold my pumps to the frame see pic below ....
What's the best way to access the rear of the pump support bolts.
I was hoping you'd say that ! Is this what everyone does ?
I did not want to dig around with the trim/carpets/remove harness bar etc. only to find it's impossible to access
Thanks.
Last edited by Tourmgr1; Dec 29, 2007 at 11:29 PM.
I was hoping you'd say that ! Is this what everyone does ?
I did not want to dig around with the trim/carpets/remove harness bar etc. only to find it's impossible to access
Thanks.
Yes, all of the alky kits and boost a pumps I installed are done with self tapping screws, same with boost controller solenoids, etc. etc.
Thanks JR. Randy was my first thought but I started this Saturday afternoon .......he's always been very helpful. I just figured someone who had installed this would have the answer over the long weekend.
Thanks.
Hi Dan,
Thanks for the pics and drawing.
I had no idea you were heading in the same direction as me. Help is closer than I thought.
BTW. Here's a link I found to a video of the install. This talks about the wiring etc. I have no idea if this is the way to go ...........as I can barely change a light bulb without direction. http://dragcorvett.blogspot.com/2007...on-cooler.html
Do we need relays ?
Last edited by Tourmgr1; Dec 31, 2007 at 06:13 PM.
Hi Dan,
Thanks for the pics and drawing.
I had no idea you were heading in the same direction as me. Help is closer than I thought.
I have the trans and diff pumps from Randy sitting right here. I've been thinking about the wiring and how to attach the pumps myself. I don't really have access to a welder. It sounds like many go with self taping screws. That would make it a lot easier.
The easiest way of attaching the pumps is the self tapping screaws.
The 2nd easiest way is to weld on 1/4 bolts to the frame.
The 3rd easiest way is to install a Riv-nut and bolt them on.
If you have any other questions please let me know!
Perhaps the coolest part of this set up is when you come off the track and shut the car off. Having the pumps hooked to a battery source and leave them running for a few minutes. People walk by and wonder what the heck is that noise. I tell them its my DRM Flux capacitors.
I tied both pumps to a single switch through a relay with an inline fuse and its been working for over a year.
I guess I don't understand the advantage of using a relay if a switch of the required current capacity is available, like those from Pegasus Auto Racing. If both pumps are tied together, I could see where using a 15 Amp switch might not be the best idea for the high current initial start up. If independent, why not? The only thing I can think of us EMI problems with the radio or the heavier gauge wiring required to the switch(s).
I guess I don't understand the advantage of using a relay if a switch of the required current capacity is available, like those from Pegasus Auto Racing. If both pumps are tied together, I could see where using a 15 Amp switch might not be the best idea for the high current initial start up. If independent, why not? The only thing I can think of us EMI problems with the radio or the heavier gauge wiring required to the switch(s).
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