michaelkrelina

I have ordered Hawk HP plus pads.
I would like opinions on rotors to match these and resist warping on a technical circuit with lots of accelerations and decelerations.
A. 1. I could stay with the stock rotors, go to 2. slotted Sport Brembos or
B. go to cryo treated rotors, such as 1. Cryo-Stop, 2. cryo-treated Power Slot or 3. Frozen Rotors.
Based on my limited reading, cryo-treated Power Slot rotors seem good.
I have not considered 2piece rotors very seriously due to cost.
I would appreciate input on the rotors, as well as compatibility with Hawk HP Plus
MK

71corv

Just my opinion. If you are just beginning, for occasional track use, go with the ZO6 pads and stock rotors. Change the brake fluid to a high temp one and go from there. This equipment should serve you well as you progress in your driving skills. There are quite a lot of more experienced drivers on here that will probably offer further help. I've been going to the track for a year. This is the way I run my ZO6.

Gene

sperkins

I push my stock brakes to the limit at the track (often) and other than a little fade they work great.

RC45

Having gone through 2 sets of rotors just with spirited back road driving when the car was stock, Frozen Rotors where the best mod I did to my stock brakes - followed by stainless steel lines and Hawk HP+ pads.

I presented the GM area rep with a set of stress cracked stock rotors in 2002 - from 3000 street miles with stock pads - the bottom line is the will crack, it is just a matter of how long they last.

Going Frozen Rotors almost tripled my mileage on stock sized solid rotors.

michaelkrelina

Do stock rotors warp as a result of the extra heat that higher performance pads generate?

In the short term I'll stay with stock rotor and pads, braided brake lines and higher boiling point brake fluid.

MK

RC45

I dont believe the stock rotors ever warp - they just craze then crack.

VetteDrmr

RC45's experience is pretty unique. I've run 70,xxx miles on my current set of rotors (changed them at 100K because, well, just because ), and I've gone through several seasons of autocross and occasional track usage with nothing more than the harmless spiderweb-look cracks in the rotor surface. Once a crack grows to the inner or outer edge of the rotor (stock or slotted rotors) or connects two drilled holes (for drilled rotors), the rotor is junk.

Do a search on cryo-treated rotors; you'll find much debate that there's no point re-writing here.

I've been running PFC Z-rated pads, which are similar to HPS + pads or Z06 pads in performance. I've never had a rotor "warp" (which is primarily brake material deposits on the rotors for a variety of reasons) on my Vette. I've had rotors vibrate almost out of the box on other cars. Point being that stock rotors are just fine unless you go with a big brake kit.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

RC45

I would go out on a limb here and say 100,000 miles on a set of OEM C5 front rotors used on race tracks and autox is the unique experience.

I am not interested in getting ino a pissing match, if yougot 100,000 miles more power to you.

The OP asked whether cryo treated rotors were a good idea, and I offered him an opinion.

Keep the shiny side up and keep hitting your apexes..

Peace.

michaelkrelina

It makes sense to me to use heat and crack resistant rotors with higher performance pads than stock. I have heard good things about Hawk HP+ pads.
We have a technical track at Calabogie with lots of decelerations to low speeds and brakes get very hot.
Thanks
MK

NOSLO6

I've used Hawk HPS pads on my C5Z06 and C6 coupe and they offer a nice increase in grip over the stockers and have very nice (i.e. stock) warm up characteristics and the dust is no worse than stock.

I'd use these for the street and switch to a race pad when racing.

lbarnard

Rock Auto rotors with BHP race pads. http://bhpbrakes.com/ talk to Matt this is an alternative to Hawk which I have used. SS brake lines and good fluid and try GS610 brake fluid from BHP Rotors are disposable depending on your driving technique and track the life of your brakes will vary.

AU N EGL

First there is no such thing as warping. Read the Stoptech white paper on therory of warping and you find it is uneven brake pad deposition for poor braking techneque

STOCK or the NAPA counter parts are best.
Based on track use, cryo rotors crack sooner then non-cryo rotors. Stay away from cryos

Again the rotors,
NAPA or Raybestous part #s

86700
86701
86702
86703

or the Rock Auto Raybestous part #s

56700
56701
56702
56703


Good DOT 4 brake fluid, Motul 600, ATE Super Blue or Gold 600, Castrol SRF. Many guys have had good luck with Castrol LMA and Valvoline Sythtec

Brake pads

Hawk HP+ will get you though one maybe two days. then you will need to change brake pads.

Good track pads no order

Wilwood H
Hawk DTC-60
Hawk DTC-70
PFC-01
PFC-05

Carbotech XP10 to XP12

The Carbotechs can be driven on the street somewhat. The others above should not be driven on the street. They can but will squeek like the blazes

Good Luck

VetteDrmr

Well, it was 100k on the first set, 70k and counting on the 2nd set.

Peace be with you as well,
Mike

Aardwolf

I wonder if people can confuse runout with warping. Can unequal lug nut torque cause physical runout on the metal of the rotor, not from deposits?

One weekend at Road America:



200 miles on a set of rotors is good, right?!?!

Bill Dearborn

The rotor in the picture looks like it has a couple more track days of life before cracking. As for unequal lug nut torque warping a rotor that may have been true on older cars where the hub was part of the rotor and the rotor held the lug bolts. On most modern vehicles the rotor is mounted through a clamping action of the wheel and the bearing hub flange. The rotor is squeezed between the two. Whatever stress this produces is probably negligible.

That being said it is still wise to torque the lug nuts evenly as this ensures the wheel is held on properly and there are no unusual strains being applied to the wheel when cornerng, etc.

Bill

VetteDrmr

Well, I've wondered that myself. I always check my lug nut torque before an event, but if they're torqued *enough* I don't know if it would make a difference if 4 were torqued to 100 ft-lbs and one was torqued to 120.

That's a good picture of spiderwebbing. I've had those on my rotors for years. I expect they will slowly grow until one gets close enough to the edge to go "Ping!". Here's a link to a topic I started on this subject last year:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1673518

Have a good one,
Mike

Aardwolf

The crack in the middle is deep enough to catch my nail on. I thought it could be run a little more as well but didn't want to have to work on the car at my next event. The NCM RA event is getting close and I'm just about prepped!

0Todd TCE

There was an SAE paper some years ago that indicated that in fact unequal torquing of the free fitting hat/rotor can exert some deflection in the rotor. You can probably do a search for it but not read the whole story without paying for it. I confess I remain a bit skeptical on it as well but the did show some minor alterations from this.

RC45

Stock rotors are cheap enough to replace "at the drop of a rotor hat"

And for the record, I doubt you will find many other C5's with stock rotors lasting 75 to 100,000 miles if the car is autox'ed or tracked at any level of aggression.

Fastguy

I run the stock rotors pretty hard and they seem to last just as long as the expensive rotors.
If your rotors last 100,000 miles of track use, you aren't braking hard enough.