Need Help T1 Bars
#21
Team Owner
#22
Melting Slicks
I just removed my T1 bars and went back to stockers. After adding coilovers and poly bushings I didn't need the stiff bars and I think they were actually hindering my cornering. I'll find out for sure on Friday when I go to the track.
#23
Drifting
Oh, oh... think my setup may be too tight.
Someone said you should be able to turn the bar by hand and slide it from side to side? No way mine would do that. Far too tight. Is that a bad thing?
Someone said you should be able to turn the bar by hand and slide it from side to side? No way mine would do that. Far too tight. Is that a bad thing?
#24
Melting Slicks
They won't move easily by hand. But I could move mine by hand with some effort when they were clamped in as long as the bushings were lubed and I used spacers on the brackets.
#25
Team Owner
#26
I've got Pfadt street adjustable bars on my Z51, and these came with poly sway bar bushings. Pfadt also makes a pillow block sway bar bushings.
I've been thinking of switching to a T1 bar for the front (I have clearance problems with 18x11 front wheels). Are there poly sway bar bushings available for the T1 bars?
I've been thinking of switching to a T1 bar for the front (I have clearance problems with 18x11 front wheels). Are there poly sway bar bushings available for the T1 bars?
#27
Team Owner
I've got Pfadt street adjustable bars on my Z51, and these came with poly sway bar bushings. Pfadt also makes a pillow block sway bar bushings.
I've been thinking of switching to a T1 bar for the front (I have clearance problems with 18x11 front wheels). Are there poly sway bar bushings available for the T1 bars?
I've been thinking of switching to a T1 bar for the front (I have clearance problems with 18x11 front wheels). Are there poly sway bar bushings available for the T1 bars?
#28
Whats up city goat. I'm GTO Fan from the "other" site. I have used the T1 bars with stock endlinks and the adjustables. If you are a stock suspension and moderate ride height, then you won't have any problems. I have tested preload on mine with the stock endlinks and they are fine. Much quieter than the adjustables too. You could develop preload depending on how you adjust your suspension especially with coilovers.
I just removed my T1 bars and went back to stockers. After adding coilovers and poly bushings I didn't need the stiff bars and I think they were actually hindering my cornering. I'll find out for sure on Friday when I go to the track.
I just removed my T1 bars and went back to stockers. After adding coilovers and poly bushings I didn't need the stiff bars and I think they were actually hindering my cornering. I'll find out for sure on Friday when I go to the track.
Sweet info. These might just be my next mod. Currently (and for the foreseeable future lol) I'm at stock ride height (ie mud boggin) so if all this is true stock endlinks, stock suspension and stock ride height will be A-OK with the T1s?
-Ryan
PS - You guys are awesome, thanks for the help.
#29
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the help guys, I installed them today, I used white lithium grease on the bushings, and some on the LG end links just for good measure. No noise as of yet, I drove maybe 40 miles today and I havent heard a sound.
Also I am lowered on stock bolts, incase any one was wondering.
Nando
Also I am lowered on stock bolts, incase any one was wondering.
Nando
#31
Melting Slicks
Can you just shim the top to relieve pressure on the bushing...because the lower bold goes thru the "A" arm?
#32
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2002
Location: Oakville Ontario,Canada
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The squeek is definitely coming from the adjustable metal endlinks. I have the T1 sway bars and tried the Hotchkis Adjustable End Links - very noisey no matter how much they were lubricated or tighted. I replaced them with the GM non-adjustable metal end links - no noise. However, I haven't tried the LG "Quiet" Adjustable End Links. Good luck - sounds like a good combo.
I pulled my noisy Hotchkis endlinks off and replaced with GM Metal and have been quiet for a couple years now
#33
Drifting
When I shimmed the rear bar it started to slide side to side. I am still shimmed in the front. The bars will get quieter with time.
#34
Racer
Member Since: Jul 2007
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The normal T1 endlinks make noise because they are a lower quality high misalignment heim joint. They have slop in them when new. It is a common problem on any car that uses cheap heims for the links. You can use the quiet links that LG sells or get a high quality high misalignment heims. They will cost more though.
The bar should move up and down freely otherwise it adds wheel rate. You don't want it to move side to side either. That can change the rate of the bar a small amount side to side. There are collars available that lock around a bar and snug up against the bushings to prevent them from walking. But because of the bends in the bars near where they pass through the bushings, they shouldn't move much.
The bar should move up and down freely otherwise it adds wheel rate. You don't want it to move side to side either. That can change the rate of the bar a small amount side to side. There are collars available that lock around a bar and snug up against the bushings to prevent them from walking. But because of the bends in the bars near where they pass through the bushings, they shouldn't move much.
#35
Instructor
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Montgomery County Maryland
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I'm running coilovers, poly control arm bushings, t1s shimmed and greased, GM adjustable links. Not a peep from the sways or links....I used a good waterproof wheel bearing grease in the sway bar bushings and shim it so you can move the bar fairly easily...binding will make noise and make the car dart around..
#36
Melting Slicks
The normal T1 endlinks make noise because they are a lower quality high misalignment heim joint. They have slop in them when new. It is a common problem on any car that uses cheap heims for the links. You can use the quiet links that LG sells or get a high quality high misalignment heims. They will cost more though.
The bar should move up and down freely otherwise it adds wheel rate. You don't want it to move side to side either. That can change the rate of the bar a small amount side to side. There are collars available that lock around a bar and snug up against the bushings to prevent them from walking. But because of the bends in the bars near where they pass through the bushings, they shouldn't move much.
The bar should move up and down freely otherwise it adds wheel rate. You don't want it to move side to side either. That can change the rate of the bar a small amount side to side. There are collars available that lock around a bar and snug up against the bushings to prevent them from walking. But because of the bends in the bars near where they pass through the bushings, they shouldn't move much.
Ive tried Uninstalling and loading the wheels and re installing...Unloading the wheels and reinstalling - this was actually the quietest
But not squeeking ratteling
#38
Melting Slicks
Wel I got it done..I used two washers ont he top and one on the bottom as per suggested my a fellow thread member..It helps..their not as noisy..I do get some rattle..I wonder If Ive damaged (they dont look dammaged) the end links.
The bar can VERY easily moved about 3/4 in side to side. One day I'll prolly get back under and remove one of the washers one the tops...
Thanks all
The bar can VERY easily moved about 3/4 in side to side. One day I'll prolly get back under and remove one of the washers one the tops...
Thanks all