New Hardbar/AP T1 brake kit!
07-17-2010, 12:52 PM
#41
07-17-2010, 02:21 PM
#42
Le Mans Master
Hey Gary,
Stop posting on CF. Put my brakes in a box and get them to fedex. I can hardly wait for my new jewels to come in the mail. Oh..... and send me the "good set" I'm up against stiff competition with Dr. Benne and company. I need an edge!
All the Best,
Doc in PV.
Stop posting on CF. Put my brakes in a box and get them to fedex. I can hardly wait for my new jewels to come in the mail. Oh..... and send me the "good set" I'm up against stiff competition with Dr. Benne and company. I need an edge!
All the Best,
Doc in PV.
+1
07-20-2010, 08:33 AM
#43
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2000
Location: Bedford NH
Posts: 5,708
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Cruise-In II Veteran
BTW, I tried the AP caliper on 14 inch rotors and it fits! I am also making the caliper adapters for use on either the 14 inch "D5" rotor (which is a larger version of the T1 AP rotor, totally bad-a$$ for those that don't have rules) or our lighter Hardbar C6Z OE replacement rotor. So, no longer will you have to keep the boat anchor C6Z calipers that have their best value after they have been melted down and recycled into Foster's cans. Some of the C6 T1 guys are using them, now they have an alternative that works better and costs less to operate.
07-20-2010, 09:33 AM
#44
Supporting Vendor
Gary knows me too well. I am sending all my new stuff to where my car lives to avoid my boss noticing new boxes arriving at home.
07-22-2010, 03:27 PM
#45
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2000
Location: Bedford NH
Posts: 5,708
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Cruise-In II Veteran
Ok, it fits! The prototype adapters with shoulder bolts that have no threads in shear will be supplied with 2 Nordlocks for each one. If you decide to run the stock C6 13 inch rotors in a pinch, it will fit with a simple flat washer between the caliper and adapter, and eliminate one of the Nordlocks. For the 14 inch option, we will supply a different adapter. Shipping will commence in a week, after they get back from the anodizer.
It is a precision fit! The casting flash touched on my car, production parts will be relieved slightly here:
It is a precision fit! The casting flash touched on my car, production parts will be relieved slightly here:
Last edited by ghoffman; 07-22-2010 at 07:17 PM.
07-23-2010, 12:33 AM
#57
Drifting
07-23-2010, 12:55 AM
#58
Drifting
Member Since: Jun 2000
Location: Corpus Christi, TX
Posts: 1,848
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is just my opinion, but the trick part of this setup is the rotors. That and the fact that the whole thing is engineered as a well balanced system that will fit under most wheels.
You can get an extra 10th of a second per lap if you are willing to throw twice or three times the money at each corner.
Matt
You can get an extra 10th of a second per lap if you are willing to throw twice or three times the money at each corner.
Matt
07-23-2010, 08:09 AM
#59
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2000
Location: Bedford NH
Posts: 5,708
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Cruise-In II Veteran
For enduros you might want the DTM caliper and/or the 14 inch D5 rotor, but this is the ultimate low MOI (moment of inertia) setup for Club racing or track days. Personally, I am going to fit the DTM caliper on the T1 rotor for my car, and I guess THAT would be the ultimate low MOI setup.
Note the caliper is very short, with very little overhang on the ends. This has alot of non-obvious advantages, some of which is that it makes it very stiff, and it covers less of the rotor arc for better rotor cooling. Now, lets consider the total heat management. The T1 rotor is not as close to the inside of the wheel, which gives more space for the rotor's exit air to go, and results in less wheel heating and tire pressure changes, as well as better overall cooling.
Wheels: Most 17 and 18 inch wheels will fit. The issue is width, you need about 57mm from the face of the rotor to the inside of the spoke.
Note the caliper is very short, with very little overhang on the ends. This has alot of non-obvious advantages, some of which is that it makes it very stiff, and it covers less of the rotor arc for better rotor cooling. Now, lets consider the total heat management. The T1 rotor is not as close to the inside of the wheel, which gives more space for the rotor's exit air to go, and results in less wheel heating and tire pressure changes, as well as better overall cooling.
Wheels: Most 17 and 18 inch wheels will fit. The issue is width, you need about 57mm from the face of the rotor to the inside of the spoke.
Last edited by ghoffman; 07-23-2010 at 08:38 AM.
07-23-2010, 08:45 AM
#60
Supporting Vendor
This is just my opinion, but the trick part of this setup is the rotors.
The same goes for calipers. A few years back there was a 'bigger is better' arms race in caliper design, with lower-end manufacturers trying to cram as many pistons as possible into their designs. The only result was longer, more flexible caliper bodies, tapered pads, poor pedal feel, huge fluid displacement with a long pedal, massive increases in unsprung weight, and some seriously ugly paint jobs. I threw up in my mouth about six times while walking around SEMA and seeing all of those abominations.
Light and tight is the name of the game, and anything more than is absolutely necessary to get the job done is dead weight in the worst spot possible.