trapp

I have about 5-6 days of track and 6800 mile of driving on these rotors. Can I continue to use them with the superfical cracks in them...I want to run DTC-60 pads up front and DTC-30 pads in the back on monday for an event....I have new rotors but want to get the most out of the old ones first...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ePwrBofGEw

Armycop

Those spider cracks ain't nuthin'; get worried when they get wider and start radiating from the holes. Once that happens, replace.

tomc8at

Dirty Howie

I have run worse but with HP+ pads. And I would check after each session. And I would bring backup rotor ......


DH

Armycop

methinks he'll be bringing those new rotors with him to the track..at least we hope he will.

72Vega

I have a 2005 Z51 with the OEM crossdrilled rotors with HAWK DTC60s up front and HT10s in back, Motul 600 brake fluid, a set of Quantum front brake ducts and DRM stainless steel brake pistons.

with comments above. Here's couple of suggestions to improve cooling off your rotors while you are at the track: drive your cool down lap without touching the brakes; slowly coast up to your parking space and turn the car off without touching brakes; wait 5 minutes after getting out of the car, then move it backwards or forwards to change the position of the rotor away from the caliper (pads and caliper can be a big heat sink for the rotors...) Check rotors front and back before going out on track for your next session.

In any event, because the OEM rotors are not directional, you can take one with you and use it on either side. If you need to replace a rotor, you need bring only a few tools or you can borrow what you need. Here is one of the best tutorials I have seen on how to replace your rotors:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...stall-diy.html

Have fun at the track!

Jason

Run'em till they crack then run them one more time.

AU N EGL

the 60 30 combo may not be the best option run the 60 60s or 70 60s front and rear.

the 60 30 may be way too much front bias

JimbeauZ06

Always take spares. I replaced 3/4 rotors at a 3-day Summit Point event this summer. You'll know when they crack. You'll have a noticeable vibration during braking.

AU N EGL

or a very LOUD TINNNNNNNNNGGGGGGGGGGGGG can be heard throughout the paddock

trapp

I'm running aggresive street tires so when I ordered the pads "they" told me 70-60 combo was too aggresive...unless I'm running R compound...

CHJ In Virginia

Those rotors will be fine. Be sure to cool them down after each run group as detailed above and you will get a lot more life out of them. My conservative rule of thumb for replacement is : 1) If you can run your fingernail across a crack and it is wide enough to catch, it is time to replace 2) if a radiating crack has reached the outside edge of the rotor, replace it. It might not be broken through yet, but it will be very shortly. Rotors are cheap, track time is not. I do not want to lose session time swapping out rotors if I can help it. I am probably more conservative in my replacement than most. I have seen first hand the damage caused by an exploding cracked rotor, it's not pretty and very expensive.

trapp

Thanks...I have done everything you have mentioned..with the addition of titanium shims for the brake pads.....thanks for the recommedations..

trapp

bluemagoo

I see the 70 60 combo recommended often but I rarely see anyone mention using a 70 70 combo on Corvettes. Is this true and, if so, why?

UstaB-GS549

It probably has more to do personal preference. Using a softer pad in the rear probably is the more conservative set-up as the fronts will lock up first.

I bought some pads from a front runner in T1. They are all DTC-70.