Trying to figure out the tow rig issue - but also want living quarters
03-24-2011, 03:01 PM
#41
Instructor
Yes, motorhomes are a very nice for "taking it with you."
But, like most everything else, that convenience comes with a price, and I'm not just speaking of the purchase price.
Motorhomes, like the name implies, are essentially homes on wheels, with all the positives and negatives associated with home ownership. Like homes on foundations, they are comprised of many systems which will, at some point, need maintenance, repair or replacement, including: A/C, house batteries, refrigerator, furnace, water pump, sliders, awnings, levelers, etc. And, yes, they are known to occasionally have leaky roofs and/or windows, just like houses.
In addition, like houses, they need to be cleaned inside and outside.
They may also require seasonal care, depending on where you live, like draining the water, adding antifreeze to drain traps, maintaining heat, etc. Me, I also had to battle to keep the mice at bay.
And then there's insurance, registration, and depreciation.
Of course, there's the engine/chassis, which has it's own set of maintenance requirements, but not much different than any other tow vehicle.
I don't mean to suggest that the negatives outweigh the positives. They may or may not: that is a calculation everyone must make for him or herself. I'm simply cautioning that anyone considering "mobilehomeownership" do so with their eyes open.
We had some great times in ours. Some days I miss it; some days I'm glad it's not sitting in the driveway needing my attention (or wallet). Damn trade-offs!
But, like most everything else, that convenience comes with a price, and I'm not just speaking of the purchase price.
Motorhomes, like the name implies, are essentially homes on wheels, with all the positives and negatives associated with home ownership. Like homes on foundations, they are comprised of many systems which will, at some point, need maintenance, repair or replacement, including: A/C, house batteries, refrigerator, furnace, water pump, sliders, awnings, levelers, etc. And, yes, they are known to occasionally have leaky roofs and/or windows, just like houses.
In addition, like houses, they need to be cleaned inside and outside.
They may also require seasonal care, depending on where you live, like draining the water, adding antifreeze to drain traps, maintaining heat, etc. Me, I also had to battle to keep the mice at bay.
And then there's insurance, registration, and depreciation.
Of course, there's the engine/chassis, which has it's own set of maintenance requirements, but not much different than any other tow vehicle.
I don't mean to suggest that the negatives outweigh the positives. They may or may not: that is a calculation everyone must make for him or herself. I'm simply cautioning that anyone considering "mobilehomeownership" do so with their eyes open.
We had some great times in ours. Some days I miss it; some days I'm glad it's not sitting in the driveway needing my attention (or wallet). Damn trade-offs!
03-24-2011, 08:02 PM
#43
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Oct 2003
Location: New Carlisle IN
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I've been seeing the A-Class diesels like this all over, I am just scared of the repair bills that might come with an older rig light that. What has he been experiencing for service/repairs?
You cannot discount how nice it is to have one of these trackside. Especially for your spouse/children if you have them. On a hot day, it's a nice place to cool off before your race. Even take a shower in between qually and the race if you want. Watch some in car video on the TV inside - it's a nice life.
You cannot discount how nice it is to have one of these trackside. Especially for your spouse/children if you have them. On a hot day, it's a nice place to cool off before your race. Even take a shower in between qually and the race if you want. Watch some in car video on the TV inside - it's a nice life.
We had to put a new floor in the bathroom and are in the process of refinishing the woodwork inside. The woodwork wasn't that bad, but dad is kind of a perfectionist. About $150 for the floor and just some sandpaper and varnish for the woodwork.
Circuit boards for both generator and AC units about $200.
Chassis/engine maintenance wise, it has been very sound and we haven't had do do any thing to it.
03-24-2011, 08:08 PM
#44
Team Owner
Yes, motorhomes are a very nice for "taking it with you."
But, like most everything else, that convenience comes with a price, and I'm not just speaking of the purchase price.
Motorhomes, like the name implies, are essentially homes on wheels, with all the positives and negatives associated with home ownership. Like homes on foundations, they are comprised of many systems which will, at some point, need maintenance, repair or replacement, including: A/C, house batteries, refrigerator, furnace, water pump, sliders, awnings, levelers, etc. And, yes, they are known to occasionally have leaky roofs and/or windows, just like houses.
In addition, like houses, they need to be cleaned inside and outside.
They may also require seasonal care, depending on where you live, like draining the water, adding antifreeze to drain traps, maintaining heat, etc. Me, I also had to battle to keep the mice at bay.
And then there's insurance, registration, and depreciation.
Of course, there's the engine/chassis, which has it's own set of maintenance requirements, but not much different than any other tow vehicle.
I don't mean to suggest that the negatives outweigh the positives. They may or may not: that is a calculation everyone must make for him or herself. I'm simply cautioning that anyone considering "mobilehomeownership" do so with their eyes open.
We had some great times in ours. Some days I miss it; some days I'm glad it's not sitting in the driveway needing my attention (or wallet). Damn trade-offs!
But, like most everything else, that convenience comes with a price, and I'm not just speaking of the purchase price.
Motorhomes, like the name implies, are essentially homes on wheels, with all the positives and negatives associated with home ownership. Like homes on foundations, they are comprised of many systems which will, at some point, need maintenance, repair or replacement, including: A/C, house batteries, refrigerator, furnace, water pump, sliders, awnings, levelers, etc. And, yes, they are known to occasionally have leaky roofs and/or windows, just like houses.
In addition, like houses, they need to be cleaned inside and outside.
They may also require seasonal care, depending on where you live, like draining the water, adding antifreeze to drain traps, maintaining heat, etc. Me, I also had to battle to keep the mice at bay.
And then there's insurance, registration, and depreciation.
Of course, there's the engine/chassis, which has it's own set of maintenance requirements, but not much different than any other tow vehicle.
I don't mean to suggest that the negatives outweigh the positives. They may or may not: that is a calculation everyone must make for him or herself. I'm simply cautioning that anyone considering "mobilehomeownership" do so with their eyes open.
We had some great times in ours. Some days I miss it; some days I'm glad it's not sitting in the driveway needing my attention (or wallet). Damn trade-offs!
03-24-2011, 08:59 PM
#45
Safety Car
Yes, motorhomes are a very nice for "taking it with you."
But, like most everything else, that convenience comes with a price, and I'm not just speaking of the purchase price.
Motorhomes, like the name implies, are essentially homes on wheels, with all the positives and negatives associated with home ownership. Like homes on foundations, they are comprised of many systems which will, at some point, need maintenance, repair or replacement, including: A/C, house batteries, refrigerator, furnace, water pump, sliders, awnings, levelers, etc. And, yes, they are known to occasionally have leaky roofs and/or windows, just like houses.
In addition, like houses, they need to be cleaned inside and outside.
They may also require seasonal care, depending on where you live, like draining the water, adding antifreeze to drain traps, maintaining heat, etc. Me, I also had to battle to keep the mice at bay.
And then there's insurance, registration, and depreciation.
Of course, there's the engine/chassis, which has it's own set of maintenance requirements, but not much different than any other tow vehicle.
I don't mean to suggest that the negatives outweigh the positives. They may or may not: that is a calculation everyone must make for him or herself. I'm simply cautioning that anyone considering "mobilehomeownership" do so with their eyes open.
We had some great times in ours. Some days I miss it; some days I'm glad it's not sitting in the driveway needing my attention (or wallet). Damn trade-offs!
But, like most everything else, that convenience comes with a price, and I'm not just speaking of the purchase price.
Motorhomes, like the name implies, are essentially homes on wheels, with all the positives and negatives associated with home ownership. Like homes on foundations, they are comprised of many systems which will, at some point, need maintenance, repair or replacement, including: A/C, house batteries, refrigerator, furnace, water pump, sliders, awnings, levelers, etc. And, yes, they are known to occasionally have leaky roofs and/or windows, just like houses.
In addition, like houses, they need to be cleaned inside and outside.
They may also require seasonal care, depending on where you live, like draining the water, adding antifreeze to drain traps, maintaining heat, etc. Me, I also had to battle to keep the mice at bay.
And then there's insurance, registration, and depreciation.
Of course, there's the engine/chassis, which has it's own set of maintenance requirements, but not much different than any other tow vehicle.
I don't mean to suggest that the negatives outweigh the positives. They may or may not: that is a calculation everyone must make for him or herself. I'm simply cautioning that anyone considering "mobilehomeownership" do so with their eyes open.
We had some great times in ours. Some days I miss it; some days I'm glad it's not sitting in the driveway needing my attention (or wallet). Damn trade-offs!
You CAN have a "worst-case scenario" like you stated above, but we've had 3 different diesel pushers and short of a faucet breaking and flooding our second one (after 3 years) and insurance buying us a new one, we've had no nightmares of ownership.
Maybe we're just lucky...I don't know. But with a used unit you run the same risks as with ANY used vehicle. You depend on the previous owner and how diligent they were getting everything done and maintaining the chassis on a regular interval. If purchasing used I'd recommend contacting the manufacturer and getting a detailed warranty report as well as any other maintenance done on it.
Having a place to park it out of the sun goes a LONG way to keeping the rubber roof in good nick. I see lots of pole-barns with an RV/trailer parked under it to 1) keep it shaded and 2) reduce the heat load on the inside of the rigs and 3) protect it from hail damage.
Mine has a 3,500 sq/ft garage it shares with cars and a pool & Foosball table. The cats have complete control of the garage, so no mice problems here.
03-25-2011, 01:19 PM
#47
Racer
Member Since: Nov 2001
Location: Pearland TX
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This is my dream SUV.
2500 Cadillac Escalade DIESEL conversion. less than 50K for the fully loaded edition.
Duraburb Inc.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cAbgf76zUHs
Use this to pull a car-sleeper trailer and can tote the kids/family around.
I really wish GM made this.
2500 Cadillac Escalade DIESEL conversion. less than 50K for the fully loaded edition.
Duraburb Inc.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cAbgf76zUHs
Use this to pull a car-sleeper trailer and can tote the kids/family around.
I really wish GM made this.
03-25-2011, 08:45 PM
#48
Intermediate
In the process of putting this rig together. Too much time on my hands this past winter so I gutted the RV to give it a "Prevost style" interior....five months later and it is not finished.
03-25-2011, 11:12 PM
#49
Instructor
Thread Starter
I've always been partial to the looks of the Coachmen Cross Country when it comes to pushers... That being said, I make that statement on looks alone. What led you to the Cross Country and what are your thoughts about it versus other pushers you looked at? Their used prices are pretty reasonable and they have a solid powertrain so, on paper, they look like a good deal.
Lots of useful information in this thread... Thanks again guys!
03-26-2011, 12:04 AM
#50
Intermediate
So happens that this Coachmen was for sale in the next County, it was convenience . I did some research and found that these hold their "once depreciated" resale value. 300 HP was a necessity and I trust the Freightliner chassis, plus it is only 5 years old, 23,000 miles and sold for $269K new. Seemed like a good solution on track weekends for all the reasons listed by the other forum members who commented in this thread who own one. Good luck with your search.
07-24-2011, 01:26 PM
#51
Instructor
Thread Starter
I've learned a lot since I created this thread... I haven't purchased anything yet (the plan is still next year), but I figured I should share what I’ve learned for anybody who stumbles across this thread in the future 
I'm about 95% sure I'm going to go the motorhome route when the time comes... That being said, it won't be a Class C - it'll be a Class A diesel pusher and probably a modest enclosed trailer. Here's what I’ve learned since I created this post:
Given all of the above information, I’ve pretty much settled on going with a shorter used Class A diesel pusher – probably in the 34’ to 36’ range. Those sizes seem to be the smallest that offer the larger engine / trans combos. Based on my research, the brands I’m focusing on are Tiffin, Winnebago/Itasca, Monaco/Holiday Rambler, and possibly Newmar. I’m looking to keep the price somewhere in the $55k - $65k range… About the same as a new 2500 diesel pickup. Speaking of the pickup / toy hauler option, I pretty much ruled it out because I’d be towing a big *** trailer when I’m camping and wouldn’t have the comforts of a motorhome when I’m at the track. Again, I don’t have a tow vehicle and wouldn’t daily drive one even if I did, so a pickup would be just for towing. That being said, if I did end up going the toy hauler route, I’d probably do a shorter custom one with this cool new option: http://www.united-trailers.com/Uploa...Lit/Lit_63.pdf
Hope some of you find that information helpful… Obviously it’s biased towards my requirements, but I figured it might be beneficial to share regardless. Any other feedback you guys have would certainly be welcome! I think I’ve learned a lot, but I’m sure many of you know much more than I do on the subject
P.S. After learning what I have on the subject, it amazes me how many rigs I see going down the road and at events which are grossly overloaded beyond their capacities. While we know a lot about cars, it seems some of us are clueless when it comes to towing
I'm about 95% sure I'm going to go the motorhome route when the time comes... That being said, it won't be a Class C - it'll be a Class A diesel pusher and probably a modest enclosed trailer. Here's what I’ve learned since I created this post:
- As others have said, the difference between max GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) and GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) is key when choosing a motorhome - especially one you plan to tow with. The difference between max GVWR and max GCWR is your towing capacity. That being said, you can stretch that number a bit (properly equipped of course) if your rig’s actual GVWR is less than the rated max GVWR.
- Because of this, pretty much all Class C motorhomes are limited to a 5,000 lb towing capacity. That being said, a lot of the larger ones have max GVWR limitations which won't even allow you to use all of that 5,000 lb capacity. There are some "Super C's" based on the GM Kodiak chassis with 10,000 lb hitches, but their max GCWR won't allow you to actually tow that much without grossly exceeding the GCWR rating of the chassis. The final issue is most larger Class C units have framerail extensions welded off the end of the factory provided Chevy or Ford chassis. That means your hitch is actually mounted to an extension rather than the frame itself… Sounds like a bad idea to me! I drove several Class C’s and they were my least favorite of the bunch. You have to consciously think that what’s behind where you’re sitting is a good foot wider on each side. Visibility also suffered because of this. The brakes also felt very inadequate for stopping just the unit alone – let alone a trailer.
- Class A gassers generally have higher GVWR and GCWR ratings since they're built on the Workhorse/GM 8.1L chassis or Ford F53 chassis (rather than a van like a Class C). Even though that’s the case, most of them are still only rated to tow 5,000 lbs. Also, you have to watch out for framerail extensions on a lot of the Class A gassers as well. If you’re considering going with a Class A gasser for pulling, you’d ideally want 2006 or later for the Ford chassis because that’s when they got the 3-valve V10 and 5-speed trans. I also believe the Workhorse chassis went from a 5-speed Allison to a 6-speed Allison that year. I’d prefer the Workhorse – just watch out for brake recall issues on them. I drove several Class A gassers and enjoyed the greater visibility they have, but didn’t like the ride or the noise from the engine sitting right next to you – and that engine works hard! The brakes on the units I drove didn’t inspire confidence either, but were better than the Class C’s.
- Class A diesel pushers (DP) are a crapshoot when it comes to GVWR vs. GCWR. Just because it’s a DP doesn’t automatically mean it can tow a house. What I found is most entry level or shorter models are equipped with the 5.9L Cummins (ISB) paired the lighter duty Allison 1000 or 2000 series transmissions. While the ISB can easily be tuned for more HP/TQ, those Allisons are limited to 600 ft-lbs or 650 ft-lbs of torque. Coaches with this combo are almost always limited to a 5,000 lb towing capacity. The trans you’d ideally want would be the Allison 3000 or 3060 – which is rated for 1200 ft-lbs of torque. That trans is usually paired with 7.2L Cateripllar or 8.3L (ISC) / 8.9L (ISL) Cummins engines. Both engines appear to be solid, but the Cummins supposedly pulls better due to greater displacement (makes sense). Most coaches with this powertrain combo are rated to tow 10,000 lbs. There are larger diesel engine options out there (up to 15L), but I’m not looking at coaches that large. The DP’s I drove were fantastic! All of the noise is at the back of the coach, so it makes for a quiet ride. Combine that with smooth air suspension, great air brakes, and an exhaust brake and you’ve got a very secure feeling drive. They also have the “bad *** horn”
- Full truck conversions like Dynamax and Renegade give you the best pulling of anything… If you’re looking to tow more than 10,000 lbs, then these are the way to go. While I haven’t driven any of them, I have no doubt they’d pull the best of the bunch. The problem with going this route is they don’t have the living space of a Class A (given an equal size unit) – and that’s important to me since I’ll be using the unit for camping probably more than racing.
Given all of the above information, I’ve pretty much settled on going with a shorter used Class A diesel pusher – probably in the 34’ to 36’ range. Those sizes seem to be the smallest that offer the larger engine / trans combos. Based on my research, the brands I’m focusing on are Tiffin, Winnebago/Itasca, Monaco/Holiday Rambler, and possibly Newmar. I’m looking to keep the price somewhere in the $55k - $65k range… About the same as a new 2500 diesel pickup. Speaking of the pickup / toy hauler option, I pretty much ruled it out because I’d be towing a big *** trailer when I’m camping and wouldn’t have the comforts of a motorhome when I’m at the track. Again, I don’t have a tow vehicle and wouldn’t daily drive one even if I did, so a pickup would be just for towing. That being said, if I did end up going the toy hauler route, I’d probably do a shorter custom one with this cool new option: http://www.united-trailers.com/Uploa...Lit/Lit_63.pdf
Hope some of you find that information helpful… Obviously it’s biased towards my requirements, but I figured it might be beneficial to share regardless. Any other feedback you guys have would certainly be welcome! I think I’ve learned a lot, but I’m sure many of you know much more than I do on the subject
P.S. After learning what I have on the subject, it amazes me how many rigs I see going down the road and at events which are grossly overloaded beyond their capacities. While we know a lot about cars, it seems some of us are clueless when it comes to towing
07-24-2011, 02:24 PM
#52
Racer
Member Since: Jun 2000
Location: Lehigh Valley,Pa.
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Great job on your research. I follow the big RV market after a 3 year search 10 yrs ago. If you have room at your home for a 36ft , you may have room for a 45ft. Keeping your rig at home is great, you get an instant guest house, spare refrig, backup power for outages, backup AC, backup water etc. My 1997 coach is worth <20% of it's purchase price, but runs and looks like new. Detroit Series 60, 1650 ft/lbs Tq with Allison B5000 with retarder , I don't even run trailer brakes sometimes. The diesel genny loves the heat and runs for days. We use our rig for dinner trips , family functions, taking the Mastiffs to the vet, a Trader Joes run -filling the freezer, funerals, weddings,concerts!!!!!, I even take it to work sometimes if I have hours to kill, I'll go sleep in the rig. SO if you have the room at your house, consider the big rig, people can't give them away, the market has never been in your favor. check out www.philcooper.com for a glimpse into these owners misery. Nothing beats that track shower and a happy/cool wife cooking you a nice lunch during an August track day. 
07-24-2011, 03:32 PM
#53
Instructor
Thread Starter
My decision of going a shorter DP is based on some of the campsites my group camps at (everybody else is in trailers)... Several of those won't handle a coach much larger than 35'. I won't be storing at my house, so longer also = more storage fees (most places charge by the foot). Getting in to a 34'-36' DP is enough to get me in to the better engine/trans combo with 10k towing capacity without having to get in to a huge RV.
As for Phil, I know him and his site well - I sold him a motorcycle several years back
As for Phil, I know him and his site well - I sold him a motorcycle several years back
07-25-2011, 10:34 AM
#54
Safety Car
Also, don't forget that there are other factors in the difference between max GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) and GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating).
Most of those rigs are rated for full loading, 365 day living types. I know for a fact that my 42' Eagle is not anywhere close to the GVWR when I take it to the track. I load a toolbox, spare tires and such under it with some folding chairs...that's it. I'm under loaded by more than 10k lbs.
If you've ever seen one loaded up by dedicated campers, they can store 10k lbs in the bays under the rig alone.
I agree with Snuckley...we use ours all the time as a guest room. I put a 50-amp outlet over by the river and we had a 20' x 45' stone patio laid down. We just park it, plug it in and the guests have a 4-star room next to the river. Best thing is we are not all on top of each other...and guests can get up on their own schedule.
Covered parking is definitely a must. The sun plays hell on the seals on top. Another thing to consider when buying is a fiberglass top, NOT the rubber roof like most of the cheaper ones have. The rubber roof will need regular maintenance, and sitting in the sun will not be good for it. Even the fiberglass roof needs the sealing around the different penetrations inspected every year and possibly touched up at least every other year.
It's a house on wheels...stuff will go wrong and break, but in the end you'll be glad you went this route. Nothing like sleeping an extra hour in the morning (since you are already at the track), and having a pot of coffee brewed up when everyone else arrives. A cool, comfortable place to relax between rounds, a fridge stocked with cold beverages and YOUR favorite foods...priceless.
You'll find you gain more friends when YOU have the most comfortable place at the track to relax...
Most of those rigs are rated for full loading, 365 day living types. I know for a fact that my 42' Eagle is not anywhere close to the GVWR when I take it to the track. I load a toolbox, spare tires and such under it with some folding chairs...that's it. I'm under loaded by more than 10k lbs.
If you've ever seen one loaded up by dedicated campers, they can store 10k lbs in the bays under the rig alone.
I agree with Snuckley...we use ours all the time as a guest room. I put a 50-amp outlet over by the river and we had a 20' x 45' stone patio laid down. We just park it, plug it in and the guests have a 4-star room next to the river. Best thing is we are not all on top of each other...and guests can get up on their own schedule.
Covered parking is definitely a must. The sun plays hell on the seals on top. Another thing to consider when buying is a fiberglass top, NOT the rubber roof like most of the cheaper ones have. The rubber roof will need regular maintenance, and sitting in the sun will not be good for it. Even the fiberglass roof needs the sealing around the different penetrations inspected every year and possibly touched up at least every other year.
It's a house on wheels...stuff will go wrong and break, but in the end you'll be glad you went this route. Nothing like sleeping an extra hour in the morning (since you are already at the track), and having a pot of coffee brewed up when everyone else arrives. A cool, comfortable place to relax between rounds, a fridge stocked with cold beverages and YOUR favorite foods...priceless.
You'll find you gain more friends when YOU have the most comfortable place at the track to relax...
07-25-2011, 11:47 AM
#55
Burning Brakes
I ended up getting a 97 Fleetwood 38' DP a month ago and am so happy I did.
It's great having shelter from the heat and a place to relax in. I have the 5.9 cummins and an Allison and the rig is rated to tow 10k. The race car is brought to the track by CSI Performance, but I did buy an open trailer from MSI Trailers (great place btw) and have towed my Grand Cherokee as a support vehicle. It towed with no problem at all and if I ever needed to tow the race car down the road, I can.
At Autobahn and Mid-Ohio, we nosed up close to the fence and my wife had a great perch to view the on-track action from. Being able to take a quick shower before the race and after before the 6 hour drive home was awesome. Not having to commute back and forth to the hotel was great. Overall just love it.
We picked up an older one first just to see if we like it and learn what options are important and not important to us.
We certainly will be sticking with this program and upgrading down the road.
One thing we regret is, getting one with a generator that runs on LP! We should have one that runs on Diesel. It can run longer and it's always easy to get diesel, not so much LP.
It's great having shelter from the heat and a place to relax in. I have the 5.9 cummins and an Allison and the rig is rated to tow 10k. The race car is brought to the track by CSI Performance, but I did buy an open trailer from MSI Trailers (great place btw) and have towed my Grand Cherokee as a support vehicle. It towed with no problem at all and if I ever needed to tow the race car down the road, I can.
At Autobahn and Mid-Ohio, we nosed up close to the fence and my wife had a great perch to view the on-track action from. Being able to take a quick shower before the race and after before the 6 hour drive home was awesome. Not having to commute back and forth to the hotel was great. Overall just love it.
We picked up an older one first just to see if we like it and learn what options are important and not important to us.
We certainly will be sticking with this program and upgrading down the road.
One thing we regret is, getting one with a generator that runs on LP! We should have one that runs on Diesel. It can run longer and it's always easy to get diesel, not so much LP.
07-25-2011, 12:43 PM
#56
Instructor
Thread Starter
Definitely some good points...
Again, thanks everybody for the great feedback!
- 1991Z07: I noticed that as well... Most better coaches seem to have a UVW (Unit Vehicle Weight) that is far under the GVWR - leaving lots of capacity for cargo (far more than I'd ever carry). I definitely won't be fulltiming mine. I wish I had a place to keep it on my land, but that's not an option where I currently live. As for storage, the place I'm looking at is covered, but not climate controlled... No big deal in my book - just means I have to winterize.
- clubracer6: I'd guess your year of Fleetwood probably has the 3000 series (pushbutton) transmission... I think the 1000 and 2000 series transmissions hit around 1999/2000 - and every coach I've seen with those has a 5k tow rating. As for the trailer, I'd probably also go to MSI - they're a NASA sponsor. Glad you're happy with your purchase! Supports my train of thought here
Again, thanks everybody for the great feedback!
08-17-2011, 05:07 PM
#57
Instructor
Thread Starter
The research continues... Good thing I'm not looking to do anything until at least next year!
Can those of you with diesel pusher experience chime in on the following issues:
1. From what I've been reading on the RV forums, a side radiator configuration is much easier to deal with when it comes to servicing the coach. Would you agree? Also, are there any other secondary benefits of the side radiator setup? I'm guessing not blasting your car/trailer with hot air is one of them, but would it also cool better when towing a trailer than a rear radiator?
2. I've also been reading that a tag axle equipped coach drives much better than a single rear axle coach - especially when towing. For those of you who have owned both, would you agree? It turns out most of the places I'd be camping (when not at the track) will accept coaches up to 40', and I've recently discovered that Monaco/Holiday Rambler offered 38' coaches with a tag axle.
Based on the information above, I'm now looking at used 2003-2004 Fleetwood/American Revolutions and used 2002-2003 Monaco Dynasties/Holiday Rambler Navigators. The Revolutions are single rear axle, but side radiator Cummins ISC (8.3L) powered rigs while the Monaco/HR coaches are tag axle, side radiator Cummins ISL (8.9L) powered rigs. Both options should be in or near my price range by next year.
I've read many threads on these subjects on RV.net and iRV2.com, but there's no substitute for real world experience - especially from other gearheads! Thanks for the continued feedback everybody
Can those of you with diesel pusher experience chime in on the following issues:
1. From what I've been reading on the RV forums, a side radiator configuration is much easier to deal with when it comes to servicing the coach. Would you agree? Also, are there any other secondary benefits of the side radiator setup? I'm guessing not blasting your car/trailer with hot air is one of them, but would it also cool better when towing a trailer than a rear radiator?
2. I've also been reading that a tag axle equipped coach drives much better than a single rear axle coach - especially when towing. For those of you who have owned both, would you agree? It turns out most of the places I'd be camping (when not at the track) will accept coaches up to 40', and I've recently discovered that Monaco/Holiday Rambler offered 38' coaches with a tag axle.
Based on the information above, I'm now looking at used 2003-2004 Fleetwood/American Revolutions and used 2002-2003 Monaco Dynasties/Holiday Rambler Navigators. The Revolutions are single rear axle, but side radiator Cummins ISC (8.3L) powered rigs while the Monaco/HR coaches are tag axle, side radiator Cummins ISL (8.9L) powered rigs. Both options should be in or near my price range by next year.
I've read many threads on these subjects on RV.net and iRV2.com, but there's no substitute for real world experience - especially from other gearheads! Thanks for the continued feedback everybody
08-18-2011, 10:26 AM
#59
Instructor
Thread Starter
Actually , everything I've read about Cat and Cummins motors is generally positive. It seems to be more of a Ford versus Chevy discussion - depends on which fanboy you talk to. The only thing I've discovered is that Cat is now out of the over the road engine business, so Cummins is the only choice if you're buying new (which I'm not).
One more thing I've learned... It seems that when you move up to the Cummins ISL (8.9L), the coach may be equipped with a Jacobs compression brake instead of a traditional exhaust brake. All of the ISC (8.3L) and Cat 3126/C7 (7.2L) equipped coaches use an exhaust brake. Both perform the same function, but the Jacobs compression brake is supposedly more effective and usually has 2 or 3 settings versus on/off for the exhaust brake. Apparently it is only an option for ISL and larger (ISM/ISX) motors.
I know I'm doing a lot of research here, but I want to make sure I get it right the first time. With the way motorhomes have been depreciating, I don't want to have to buy again in a few years because I under bought the first time. I know what my size limits are - I just need to figure out what mechanical features (tag axle, engine size, side radiator, etc.) are worth investing the additional money for.
08-28-2012, 12:59 PM
#60
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Location: Montreal Quebec
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Thread revival!
Hey guys,
I'm reviving this thread because I think it has a lot of useful started information and also because I'm interested in what gtb75 ended up buying, if he made his move.
LONG VERSION
Here's the thought process behind my harebrained project: I am currently renting an apartment. I live in it around half the time or less, as I spend a lot of time in Europe for work, and in crummy motels for track events (I'll probably reach around 40 days at the track this season, and this is with being away a month and a half!).
I'm 31 and at the time when I really should be looking at houses or condos. A condo would not bring me anything except I'd be investing in real estate rather than paying rent, and the monthly living expense would go up. Yes, it would be nicer but I don't care about nice. A house would be a lot of maintenance and management and I don't need the space (I live alone). The only thing it would be good for is having a garage for the car.
And besides, the one thing I find the most frustrating right now is having to come back "home", i.e. to the same place all the time, basically to do laundry and then leave for another track again.
Then it hit me: why not have a house, on wheels? Then I'd never have to come back home since home would be with me at all times! The nomadic lifestyle attracts me. I work from home and only need a good Internet connection to be operational. No significant other, no kids. I could park the motorhome and trailer close to an airport, pay a local RV dealer to keep it in the lot, fly to Montreal for a week or two, then fly to Europe for work for a month or more, come back to Montreal for another week and fly again to where I left the RV, and keep going on my journey! In 2-3 years I could get to know North America really well and do all major tracks on the continent. Then maybe it'd be time to settle down... or not. I'd be down south in the winter and up north in the summer so no need to winterize anything.
CLIFF'S NOTES
I would need something where I would be living day in, day out, covering a lot of miles and towing an enclosed trailer with the car + all the tools and spares (3 sets of wheels, etc.).
It seems to me like the obvious option is a diesel pusher with a good engine and transmission for towing up and down mountain ranges and heavy-duty enough to cut down on maintenance and repairs.
I'm completely impervious to luxury. Just need A/C, a shower, a bed and some space not to feel claustrophobic, that's all. Washer/dryer are a must, and large capacity tanks for water (new and used) are needed as well as I'd be living full-time in the rig.
1) Does it seem realistic? What do I need to keep in mind?
2) What are prices like? I'm having the hardest time finding some kind of central source for used RVs. I hear they're dirt-cheap but I'd like to know what that means in real terms.
3) What is the best way to get a high-speed Internet connection nationwide in the USA? Through a cell phone company?
I'm reviving this thread because I think it has a lot of useful started information and also because I'm interested in what gtb75 ended up buying, if he made his move.
LONG VERSION
Here's the thought process behind my harebrained project: I am currently renting an apartment. I live in it around half the time or less, as I spend a lot of time in Europe for work, and in crummy motels for track events (I'll probably reach around 40 days at the track this season, and this is with being away a month and a half!).
I'm 31 and at the time when I really should be looking at houses or condos. A condo would not bring me anything except I'd be investing in real estate rather than paying rent, and the monthly living expense would go up. Yes, it would be nicer but I don't care about nice. A house would be a lot of maintenance and management and I don't need the space (I live alone). The only thing it would be good for is having a garage for the car.
And besides, the one thing I find the most frustrating right now is having to come back "home", i.e. to the same place all the time, basically to do laundry and then leave for another track again.
Then it hit me: why not have a house, on wheels? Then I'd never have to come back home since home would be with me at all times! The nomadic lifestyle attracts me. I work from home and only need a good Internet connection to be operational. No significant other, no kids. I could park the motorhome and trailer close to an airport, pay a local RV dealer to keep it in the lot, fly to Montreal for a week or two, then fly to Europe for work for a month or more, come back to Montreal for another week and fly again to where I left the RV, and keep going on my journey! In 2-3 years I could get to know North America really well and do all major tracks on the continent. Then maybe it'd be time to settle down... or not. I'd be down south in the winter and up north in the summer so no need to winterize anything.
CLIFF'S NOTES
I would need something where I would be living day in, day out, covering a lot of miles and towing an enclosed trailer with the car + all the tools and spares (3 sets of wheels, etc.).
It seems to me like the obvious option is a diesel pusher with a good engine and transmission for towing up and down mountain ranges and heavy-duty enough to cut down on maintenance and repairs.
I'm completely impervious to luxury. Just need A/C, a shower, a bed and some space not to feel claustrophobic, that's all. Washer/dryer are a must, and large capacity tanks for water (new and used) are needed as well as I'd be living full-time in the rig.
1) Does it seem realistic? What do I need to keep in mind?
2) What are prices like? I'm having the hardest time finding some kind of central source for used RVs. I hear they're dirt-cheap but I'd like to know what that means in real terms.
3) What is the best way to get a high-speed Internet connection nationwide in the USA? Through a cell phone company?