Brake fade with ducts... any input?
04-13-2011, 09:49 PM
#41
04-13-2011, 11:35 PM
#43
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,146
Received 8,972 Likes
on
5,354 Posts
That's a bit extreme to me... no need to flush between each day at the track. At most a few pumps at each caliper if any. I've never boiled ATE superblue and I don't bleed the brakes after a day on track if they still feel fine. I bleed them as part of my prep before the weekend.
Bill
04-14-2011, 06:25 AM
#44
Team Owner
I don't think there is a difference you can feel if there is any. I have DRM lines and Wilwoods calipers. I would like to see someone come off track when hot and measure all the supposed expansion of the OEM lines. I mean when you blow a tire off a rim which takes about 300 psi it does not grow much it just explodes and I think a brake line would be the same.
They are not made of balloon material and for many they are just fine. I felt no big difference when I switched. Granted I run the car much harder now but I still think 99% placebo effect.
They are not made of balloon material and for many they are just fine. I felt no big difference when I switched. Granted I run the car much harder now but I still think 99% placebo effect.
Last edited by John Shiels; 04-14-2011 at 06:27 AM.
04-14-2011, 06:29 AM
#45
Team Owner
04-14-2011, 08:55 AM
#46
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 1999
Location: Miami bound
Posts: 71,447
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
CI 4-5-6-7 Veteran
Constant bleeding/flushing never really changed the fact that I got a long pedal by the end of a TT weekend, so I just got lazy and learned to live with it. I'll bleed once a day if I'm feeling motivated or it's worse than usual, and always before a race.
04-14-2011, 09:54 AM
#47
Safety Car
Based upon my significant experience the Hawk DTC-70 pads are the main culprit. I won't run them. They generate much more heat than any other pad and I've literally ran them all.
Not only do they generate excessive heat they are also VERY hard on rotors.
In my modded C5 I had the same issue and was running ATE Blue. Switched to PFC-01 or Wilwood H and problem solved. My ASA stock car came with DTC-70 pads and same issue. Switching pads in the race car again solved the problem.
SRF also solves the problem BUT, it just "masks" the heat. I suggest you try a set of Wilwood H, PFC-01 or Raybestos ST-43 or ST-47.
Flame suit on for protection from the Hawk and Carbotech faithful....
Rick
Not only do they generate excessive heat they are also VERY hard on rotors.
In my modded C5 I had the same issue and was running ATE Blue. Switched to PFC-01 or Wilwood H and problem solved. My ASA stock car came with DTC-70 pads and same issue. Switching pads in the race car again solved the problem.
SRF also solves the problem BUT, it just "masks" the heat. I suggest you try a set of Wilwood H, PFC-01 or Raybestos ST-43 or ST-47.
Flame suit on for protection from the Hawk and Carbotech faithful....
Rick
Last edited by rikhek; 04-14-2011 at 02:43 PM.
04-14-2011, 10:28 AM
#48
Safety Car
Based upon my significant experience the Hawk DTC-70 pads are the main culprit. I won't run them. They generate much more heat than any other pad and I've literally ran them all.
Not only do they generate excessive heat they are also VERY hard on rotors.
In my modded C5 I had the same issue and was running ATE Blue. Switched to PFC-01 or Wilwood H and problem solved. My ASA stock car came with DTC-70 pads and same issue. Switching pads in the race car again solved the problem.
SRF also solves the problem BUT, it just "masks" the heat. I suggest you try a set of Wilwood H, PFC-01 or Raybestos ST-43 or ST-47.
Flame suit on for protection from the Hawk faithful....
Rick
Not only do they generate excessive heat they are also VERY hard on rotors.
In my modded C5 I had the same issue and was running ATE Blue. Switched to PFC-01 or Wilwood H and problem solved. My ASA stock car came with DTC-70 pads and same issue. Switching pads in the race car again solved the problem.
SRF also solves the problem BUT, it just "masks" the heat. I suggest you try a set of Wilwood H, PFC-01 or Raybestos ST-43 or ST-47.
Flame suit on for protection from the Hawk faithful....
Rick
No, on the other hand, I really agree that this makes sense. The more agressive the pad, the more heat it dumps into the rotors. Certainly on some tracks where you have more 130-down-to-45mph turn-ins, you get worse pedal feel from the additional heat. I have good experience with the Wilwood H both for feel, performance, and wear. They do crack the rotors more than Carbos from what I'm told.I'd recommend Wil H Front & Rear though.
04-14-2011, 10:30 AM
#49
Safety Car
Wilwood Hs eat rotors for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Hawks produce dust that will literally bond to everything it touches and turn to rust when it gets wet. I've had lots of experience with both.
Carbotechs for me
Carbotechs for me
04-14-2011, 10:47 AM
#50
Safety Car
You'd have to pay me to run Carbotech pads. I've tried them a number of times and they last half the life of the pads I've mentioned. Terrible pads for me.
I'm relating my experience and not starting a pissing match. In the end different driving styles, tracks, tires, experience level will give different results. I'm sharing my experience.
Rick
04-14-2011, 01:04 PM
#51
Team Owner
Not my experience. Wilwood H/ST-43 are VERY rotor friendly on the 3 different cars I've ran. Modded C5, C6Z and ASA stock car. Apparently you've not had the same results.
You'd have to pay me to run Carbotech pads. I've tried them a number of times and they last half the life of the pads I've mentioned. Terrible pads for me.
I'm relating my experience and not starting a pissing match. In the end different driving styles, tracks, tires, experience level will give different results. I'm sharing my experience.
Rick
You'd have to pay me to run Carbotech pads. I've tried them a number of times and they last half the life of the pads I've mentioned. Terrible pads for me.
I'm relating my experience and not starting a pissing match. In the end different driving styles, tracks, tires, experience level will give different results. I'm sharing my experience.
Rick
04-14-2011, 01:46 PM
#52
I too have a C6 Z51.. went comp mode once... overheated brakes at 15-18min.. got practice left foot breaking to pump the pads. later in the season had simular issue, but the pedal was lower before grabing... flushed lines, no change, checked the rear pads and i have credit cards that were thicker.. i forgot to change them out and ran the street pads.
I use to use Hawk and they were too hot as mentioned above , use PFC, Carbotek what ever i find a best price..
Running w/ all nannies off i had 200degree reduction in pad temp and saved a lot of pad wear..
Run Smooth speed will follow..
I use to use Hawk and they were too hot as mentioned above , use PFC, Carbotek what ever i find a best price..
Running w/ all nannies off i had 200degree reduction in pad temp and saved a lot of pad wear..
Run Smooth speed will follow..
04-14-2011, 02:03 PM
#53
Melting Slicks
Not my experience. Wilwood H/ST-43 are VERY rotor friendly on the 3 different cars I've ran. Modded C5, C6Z and ASA stock car. Apparently you've not had the same results.
You'd have to pay me to run Carbotech pads. I've tried them a number of times and they last half the life of the pads I've mentioned. Terrible pads for me.
You'd have to pay me to run Carbotech pads. I've tried them a number of times and they last half the life of the pads I've mentioned. Terrible pads for me.
Better put your flame suit on now!
04-14-2011, 02:43 PM
#55
Safety Car
Huh? BBKs don't increase overall stopping power, they simply withstand hard use a bit longer and the main benefit is decreased consumables cost and service needs.
04-14-2011, 02:46 PM
#57
Safety Car
I've run Hawks, Wilwoods, PFCs, and Carbotechs.... I stick to Carbotechs now becuase I've run 5 weekends on one set of rotors and when my car gets wet I don't have to spend a weekend rubbing embedded rust off of it.
Yes they wear out a little faster, but that's usually due to pad taper. Flip your pads after each day on track and you can run them to the backing plates.
Yes they wear out a little faster, but that's usually due to pad taper. Flip your pads after each day on track and you can run them to the backing plates.
04-14-2011, 03:20 PM
#59
Team Owner
04-14-2011, 03:23 PM
#60
Team Owner
towards the end of a session I believe they do stop better, but kind of what you said that yourself. Bigger caliper, bigger rotors consume more heat and will stop better.